Timing Chain Tensioner Fix (2 Viewers)

[ElJayBird]

I’m considering pulling the trigger on getting my timing chain rattle fixed. Toyota has told me that it’s “probably” fine but that doesn’t give me warm fuzzies. I travel to remote areas frequently and having to walk 50-100 miles to get myself out of the backcountry then trying to recover the LC doesn’t sound like a great time.

Toyota has quoted over $8k for the repair. If I move forward, are there any other parts I should have them replace while they’ve got the cover off?

 

[32cls6speedmt]

Is this the same repair.

 

[ElJayBird]

The tensioner is different on the 3UR. The rattle is different too - it only rattles from about .10-.35 during the warm up cycle. Once warm it’s fine. I think as the motor builds oil pressure, the tensioner has more pressure on it and so the rattle goes away.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

I use 5w-30 motor oil and have not experienced the rattle.

There been a threads on the heavier weight motor oil eliminating the rattle. Paging @Taco2Cruiser

 

[bloc]

Have you tried running a thicker oil than the standard 0w-20? And is it every start or random? Any themes like sitting for a while, cold/hot start, etc?

 

[TeCKis300]

Agree with others to try heavier weight oil. Possibly 0w-30.

 

[ElJayBird]

Been running 5w-30 for about 10k miles. Improvement was marginal, though the motor is generally quieter. It used to happen only in cold weather but now it’s on every start. I just got in the habit of starting the truck to let it warm up before I leave.

 

[TeCKis300]

Been running 5w-30 for about 10k miles. Improvement was marginal, though the motor is generally quieter. It used to happen only in cold weather but now it’s on every start. I just got in the habit of starting the truck to let it warm up before I leave.

Bummer.

I would try the Tundra forums to see what their recommendations would be as they probably have more examples that have expeirenced this.

Does sound like a fix is in order. I'm surprised at the cost.

 

[ElJayBird]

Bummer.

I would try the Tundra forums to see what their recommendations would be as they probably have more examples that have expeirenced this.

Does sound like a fix is in order. I'm surprised at the cost.

Good idea - found a rather lengthy thread on it in the Tundra forums. Only suggestion is to do the water pump at the same time.

May try running more sea foam through it and another oil change before writing a check for $8k.

 

[fjc-man]

Good idea - found a rather lengthy thread on it in the Tundra forums. Only suggestion is to do the water pump at the same time.

May try running more sea foam through it and another oil change before writing a check for $8k.

What model year and how many miles?

 

[ElJayBird]

What model year and how many miles?

2014 128k

 

[Sandroad]

I’m considering pulling the trigger on getting my timing chain rattle fixed. Toyota has told me that it’s “probably” fine but that doesn’t give me warm fuzzies. I travel to remote areas frequently and having to walk 50-100 miles to get myself out of the backcountry then trying to recover the LC doesn’t sound like a great time.

Toyota has quoted over $8k for the repair. If I move forward, are there any other parts I should have them replace while they’ve got the cover off?

What part of that job could possibly cost that much?

 

[bloc]

What part of that job could possibly cost that much?

Agree. Find a good independent. They must be pulling the cam towers and maybe oil pan as well. Neither of which are strictly necessary

 

[ElJayBird]

I’m going to get another Toyota dealer to give me a quote. The original quote came from Toyota of Portland, which seems to be staffed by monkeys. Long story but have zero confidence in those guys. They quoted me close to $3k for an unrelated issue that turned out to be a very simple fix and completely unrelated to where they were looking.

 

[Emcd]

No need to pull the cam towers. Generally, it’s only one of the two tensioners that fail. But, while you are there, do both. It’s about 3k tops to get it done in the Denver area. I’d do WP, serpentine belt, idlers and maybe a new radiator

 

[bloc]

You might even consider running a 0w-40 or 5w-40, even if just for a test. I seem to remember up to 40wt being specified in different parts of the world, I’d assume in places closer to the equator than Oregon, but still it could be good data and maybe even a good long term solution.

 

[gaijin]

You might even consider running a 0w-40 or 5w-40, even if just for a test. I seem to remember up to 40wt being specified in different parts of the world, I’d assume in places closer to the equator than Oregon, but still it could be good data and maybe even a good long term solution.

I don't see either of those weight ranges specified, but there are many options higher than 0W-20.

Here's what I have seen posted as ROW (Rest Of the World) oil options:

I'm running 5W-30 and am very pleased with it. If even higher weight is desired, 10W-30, 15W-40, or even 20W-50 could be used as a test - all full synthetic and depending on ambient temperatures.

HTH

 

[bloc]

I don't see either of those weight ranges specified, but there are many options higher than 0W-20.

Here's what I have seen posted as ROW (Rest Of the World) oil options:

View attachment 3133436

I'm running 5W-30 and am very pleased with it. If even higher weight is desired, 10W-30, 15W-40, or even 20W-50 could be used as a test - all full synthetic and depending on ambient temperatures.

HTH

They likely wrote up 15w-40 because in large parts of central and South America that may be all that is available in a high quality oil. If that is ok there should be no problem running 5 or 0-40, as the high temperature viscosity is often (but not always) a little thinner than the 15-40, but the low temp range would be much more favorable to most of the climates in the US let alone Oregon.

The fact that they go as thick as 20w-50 suggests there is plenty of room for a much more viscous oil if that’s what is available and the environment allows cold starts with it. I take this to mean these engines are quite tolerant of different high temp viscosities.. and it even makes me wonder whether the use of much thinner oil in the US contributes to these timing chain tensioner issues some of us and the tundra guys see. Unfortunately the 3UR isn’t common enough in other English speaking markets to really compare our experience to others, even if anecdotally.

 

[montegofd3s]

What filter are you running? I know this sounds silly, but I have been running 0 or 5-30 for a while and never had the tensioner noise....until the last change. I threw on a TRD filter from the dealer (was there picking up some other parts and threw one on the bill) and the next day the tensioner noise showed up. The noise would show up every morning, so changed the filter about a week later with the "Buy 5 quarts of Mobile1 and get a filter free" filter I usually use. Sure enough the tensioner noise has not been back. Truck has 240k miles on it.

 

[ElJayBird]

The symptoms are usually intermittent at first. Mine would come and go over the course of about a year, mostly in cold weather but got gradually worse over time.

I’m running the OEM filter with all oil changes being done by Toyota.