Timing Belt Questions

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whtwolf23

whtwolf23

10 Year
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Threads
3
Messages
15
Location
Castle Rock, CO
Hello all,

I am in need of either doing my timing belt myself or having it done as I am pretty scared to drive too much more without having it done. The questions I have are:

1. Should I do this one myself? I know that it would be less money; however, I am thinking about time (I'm by no means a professional mechanic) and would likely be out of a 2nd vehicle for a few days.

2. Does anyone know of a person in the Denver metro area that has done these in the recent months? If so, what is the cost I am looking at? I already have the timing belt, serpentine belt and the water pump.
 
whtwolf23 said:
Hello all,

I am in need of either doing my timing belt myself or having it done as I am pretty scared to drive too much more without having it done. The questions I have are:

1. Should I do this one myself? I know that it would be less money; however, I am thinking about time (I'm by no means a professional mechanic) and would likely be out of a 2nd vehicle for a few days.

2. Does anyone know of a person in the Denver metro area that has done these in the recent months? If so, what is the cost I am looking at? I already have the timing belt, serpentine belt and the water pump.
Click to expand...

Just did it last week, and it was my first timing belt job. Not a difficult job (looks more intimidating than it really is), but you have to stay pretty fastidious with taking pictures and labeling bolts/nuts to make sure that assembly is smooth-sailing. In terms of time, assuming that you'll be working a solo mission, budget 2 days at least, using complete disassembly as a turnaround point.

More than saving a few hundred bucks, it gives you a sense of accomplishment and assurance that some hackjob didn't cut corners.
 
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I've also done my own. I'm slow and take my time, cleaning and testing ever part. Takes me two full days if all parts on hand.

Why are you scared to drive, did something happen?
 
No, nothing happened. Just know it needs to be done and it is WAY over. I have 156k on the odometer now. Truck has been super solid! I love it!!!

I'm a bit apprehensive on doing the job but I have a buddy that has said he would help so it would be a couple of us doing the deed.
 
No shame in the shop doing it. It took me 4 days but i have kids running around. :)

Would probably let the shop do it next time...so i can enjoy the time with kids.
 
I'm just about to make the call for the T-belt appointment with the shop! Can I tackle it? Sure, with plenty of time and no one harassing me! Reality is I know how much time I'll really have with kids to pick from school and running around grabbing tools and such! I have enough smaller projects to keep myself busy so the "professionals" can handle this one! And you also have a warranty on the job "if" something would happen!
 
whtwolf23 said:
No, nothing happened. Just know it needs to be done and it is WAY over. I have 156k on the odometer now. Truck has been super solid! I love it!!!

I'm a bit apprehensive on doing the job but I have a buddy that has said he would help so it would be a couple of us doing the deed.
Click to expand...
With a buddy & FSM it should be fun. With money you save you can do a complete job while it's opened up.
 
Getting ready to start mine for the first time. Have all the parts and waiting on a $50.00 special tool for removing the crank pulley. Even replacing the seventeen year old oil cooler rubber hoses at the same time. Plan to torque all bolts correctly.

After reading the Factory Service Manual and the posts from Spressomon and Scottm in the FAQ section I feel pretty good about getting started. Printed both and stuck them in the FSM. Parts organization will be important. Bag them seperatly and mark the bags. Go slow and make notes as you go as I don't trust my memory that well. It's like jumping off the high dive. After the first the others are a breeze.

Besides, there is a world of knowledge and support on this site. None better anywhere.

This an excellent video on changing a timing belt. It's not a Land Cruiser engine but is almost identical. Very good step by step instructions and wish it included the cam shaft and crank shaft seals replacement.

 
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One thing that helped me was to tape the nuts/bolts to the part i removed. It was a peace of cake putting it all back together. Either that or put them in zip lock bags and tape those to the part. I would also remove the radiator as it gives you way more room to work and your not worried about damaging it.
 
I did talk to AutoNation toyota today (along with my buddy). The shop gave me a quote of $750 not counting anything else that they may find once inside, my friend won't be able to help me with it until about the first week or so in May (he's an audio/vido engineer and is pretty busy). Both are doable. Time, money, warranty and the wife are the pressing factors.
 
$750 is lower than I've been hearing for this area. Does that include water pump?

Mine is waiting for parts to come in, but should be done later this week. Total with water pump is around $1k.
 
Bought the parts below and know it's a good deal. If someone will install them $350.00 that's pretty dang good. Will do it myself and put the labor charges in my pocket. All OEM parts.

TIMING BELT Part # 13568-09070 Quantity 1 Amount $44.51 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item TENSION PULLEY Part # 13503-0F010 Quantity 1 Amount $70.93 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item BELT TENSIONER Part # 13540-50030 Quantity 1 Amount $46.88 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item IDLER PULLEY Part # 13505-0F010 Quantity 1 Amount $70.68 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item CAMSHAFT SEAL Part # 90311-38065 Quantity 2 Amount $27.64 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item FRONT CRANK SEAL Part # 90311-A0001 Quantity 1 Amount $7.78 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item WATER PUMP ASSY Part # 16100-09201 Quantity 1 Amount $107.95 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Item SERPENTINE BELT Part # 90916-02586 Quantity 1 Amount $40.68 Status Shipped Carrier FedEx Tracking # 782647347022 Ship date 03/22/2016
Subtotal
$417.05
Discount
-$41.71
Shipping (Standard Ground Shipping)
$21.19
Total $396.53

Added the following thinking it was a good idea to replace the rubber hoses for the oil cooler.

HOSE WATER BY-PASS Part# 16281-50030 Quantity 1 Amount $6.35 Status ETA N/A
Item INLET HOSE Part# 16282-50040 Quantity 1 Amount $5.28 Status ETA N/A
Item RETURN HOSE Part# 15777-50030 Quantity 1 Amount $15.72 Status ETA N/A
Item CLIP Part# 90467-20011 Quantity 6 Amount $15.42 Status ETA N/A
Subtotal
$42.77
Promo discount 10%
-$4.28
Shipping (Standard Ground Shipping)
$6.82
Total $45.31
 
whtwolf23 said:
I did talk to AutoNation toyota today (along with my buddy). The shop gave me a quote of $750 not counting anything else that they may find once inside, my friend won't be able to help me with it until about the first week or so in May (he's an audio/vido engineer and is pretty busy). Both are doable. Time, money, warranty and the wife are the pressing factors.
Click to expand...

Sounds like they are just replacing the belt. They will most likely recommend prob $500 more in parts and prob another 2-300 in labor for the water pump/pullies/crank seal.

If I were you, I'll remove the right timing belt cover and check the conditon of the belt. You dont have to remove it completely. Just remove all the 4 bolts and the nut in the middle and pull it away from the engine. Right side as on the passenger side. This will let you know if you can wait or not.
 
this is a "time job" not a "hard job"... I did not find I needed any special tools... and I have never replaced the cam seals... some people do and they come in the kit... I just didn't... mine looked good and dry...
I'm slow as dirt and for me it's an all day job... 8-10 hours but I have been in there before and kinda know what to expect... how to get the clips and connectors to un-clip and disconnect and have a basic understanding of the natural order of things...
1st thing I do is remove the skid pan and head to the carwash spend $5 and clean everything I'll be touching clean from the top & bottom anything I might put my hand on...

then I make a clean space to work in my shop... put a door slab on saw horses a few feet away from the truck to have a dedicated spot for all parts...
put the truck on ramps if you have them and then
a chair or small step ladder helps a ton for getting in from the top...
LOTS of good light... I'm old and NEED to see

I try hard whenever I can to put the nut or bolt BACK where it came from if it won't be in the way, otherwise I keep the fasteners with the part they held on...*** much easier when you keep the part and the bolts that held it on together ***

Good luck
 
ponytl said:
I try hard whenever I can to put the nut or bolt BACK where it came from if it won't be in the way, otherwise I keep the fasteners with the part they held on...*** much easier when you keep the part and the bolts that held it on together ***
Good luck
Click to expand...

Did the same thing. I used painters tape to wrap around the nuts and bolts on each piece i took. No guessing which nut/bolt went where. Just pick up the part and screws were already there. :)
 
ton504 said:
If I were you, I'll remove the right timing belt cover and check the conditon of the belt. You dont have to remove it completely. Just remove all the 4 bolts and the nut in the middle and pull it away from the engine. Right side as on the passenger side. This will let you know if you can wait or not.
Click to expand...

I would expect the belt to be in good shape if it's less than 150k miles and ten years old. It's almost always another part that fails that causes the belt to break (tensioner, water pump seize, etc).

If it's not on your parts list, I'd recommend the thermostat and heater T's of course, assuming you are draining radiator.

One good tip that's been mentioned is putting bolts back in parts or threading in the hole they came from. You could consider using a cheap tackle box and labeling the slots for parts/bolts also.
 
At your mileage I would replace the fan bracket and alternator while you are in there, it's minimal extra time while you have it apart but hours to do after the fact (ask me how I know...)

I don't know how the 100 radiators fare but that is worth checking also.
 
RyanStl said:
It sounds like for a DIY a two day job. Are shops able to knock this out along with heater T's in a day typically?
Click to expand...

Having done a few... I would bet a good tech could knock it out in 4hrs or less... I knew a guy at a GM dealership years ago who paid his own helper and all he did was steering columns when everyone was stealing GM cars... they "allowed/ charged" 10hrs labor with his helper they could do 6 a day he got paid 60hrs labor per day... as I understand it Techs still just get shop rate book hours on each job if it takes longer they eat it if they work fast/smart they make bank...
 
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