Good man! Time to delete or upgrade lol. Does insurance cover this sort of “incident”?
You did hit a rock… lol
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Good man! Time to delete or upgrade lol. Does insurance cover this sort of “incident”?
take the whole bar off I hope!!!
Nah just left it on. The other link is fine so it’s staying out of the way. I don’t have any room in back to carry a sway bar home and I ain’t strapping it to the roof lol.
Recipe for disaster - anything off-camber will cause the swaybar end to hit LCA, tie rod, or maybe CV - it sucks but you want to remove otherwise you’re going to damage stuff. Disaster may be overstatement, but it’ll start hitting stuff the moment you hit a speed bump at an angle.
The clearance issue is part of the reason why we can’t have quick disconnects on our model
Edit - as I think through it, you can probably be ok going slow, but it’ll want to hit stuff as the suspension moves truly independently so be mindful
Crappiest example to illustrate this is if you disconnect the swaybar from the endlinks, you can’t rotate the bar down, it hits the LCA.
Crappiest example to illustrate this is if you disconnect the swaybar from the endlinks, you can’t rotate the bar down, it hits the LCA.
I actually think the bigger target would be tie rod. Ignorant if this risk, just romped through a wash and didn’t have any issues or contact. I’m inclined to think the risk of limping it home on the highway is low. Like it would take a full compression on the other side to make contact with tie rods.
Thoughts? Am I crazy?
Try to keep the sides moving together and you’ll probably be fine - highway definitely safest!
You got me thinking out loud lol sorry.
My hesitation on removing the sway bar completely, aside from storing it is that any of the frame captive bolts are likely to be crusty on this Canadian native truck. I’ve had good luck soaking stuff ahead of time with penetrating oil. My worry here is that if the bolts don’t come out cleanly I actually create a bigger issue for myself. They have likely never been changed.
So my head is either - it will be fine because I just thrashed the truck.
Or just stick the link back in for insurance. It will definitely make some noise but offer some insurance from the bar flying up high enough to contact the tie rod. my thinking is that the link can’t wiggle enough for the ball on the top bolt to fully slip completely out since it’s wedged so tightly.
Again, sorry. My brain is busy.
No good call - the sway bar frame bolts definitely collect rust in the exposed threads. I’d check your tie rod ends and the end link cup on the arm - if they look good and you aren’t sending it, I’d shove the old link back in and call it a day for now.
Now that you’re home, how long till you remove the whole thing?I just drove 1500 miles home with a zip-tied end link and lived to tell about it. Ask me anything![]()
Now that you’re home, how long till you remove the whole thing?![]()
There are sway bar spacers for the tundra available...I'm not certain they are the same size for the LX570, but if not, a similar spacer can be fabricated in an afternoon with UHMW, aluminum, steel, or your material of choice. It could be matched to any AHC lift or spacing that you have installed (assuming lift, and resulting stress on the sway bar links was a contributing factor...the rust on your sway-bar ball joint may suggest another contributing factor too).Get out of my head lol. I still don’t know how I feel about it. My truck is ~7200-7500 lbs before loading up with people and gear.
The safety of family comes firstGet out of my head lol. I still don’t know how I feel about it. My truck is ~7200-7500 lbs before loading up with people and gear.