Been getting a fair few DMs about this, so I thought I'd just answer all at once.
I went with the L since satellite radio isn't a concern for me and I didn't need to give the fin clearance. Thule specs a 'M' and I can confirm the 'L' fits. Thule rates it for 165lbs, but roof racks are rated for 'dynamic' and 'static' loads. It looks like almost every manufacturer (including Front Runner) sticks to 150kg for the dynamic load rating, even if they're rating it for 600+ static. I'm guessing this is some sort of liability deal. This made me feel better about the Thule since I also dig the looks and didn't want to drop my headliner.
The most dramatic thing to note is that the sides overhang around 5 1/2 inches from the roof top. This rack has a good spread. Strength-wise, I fiddled around with the crossbars and could make individual ones flex, but no more so than my old Front Runner Slimline ll rack. It's sturdy. Once I got it mounted and buttoned up I carefully did my awning test -- stepping up off a tire and bracing myself on just the edge of the rack and slowly putting my 200+ lbs of weight on it. I did this test in the middle -- the weakest point -- and even did some gentle rocking bounces. It held up just fine. I'm also pretty sure that if push came to shove, I could add another set of foot packs at spars #2 and #5 to complement the existing ones at #1 and #6. With the curvature of the roof, adding a tower in the center isn't doable.
I also tried some of my old FrontRunner hardware -- it doesn't fit. The Thule T-channels are more shallow, but wider. I could add any accessories from the FR catalog, but I'd need to get the Thule-sized nuts. All in all, I'm happy with it. It was exactly the solution I was hoping it would be. As seen in the pictures below, the rack allows both the tailgate to open and moonroof to tilt without interference.
Parts:
Thule Kit #186044
Thule Evo Flush Rail Foot Pack #710601
Thule Caprock Platform L #611003
Unless you want to add extra spars, this is all you need. Locks are included with the packs, so you don't need to buy those separately.
Again, note that Thule rates the foot packs for 165lbs and the rack size for an LX570 at M so you will be coloring outside the lines on this one.
Things to note:
You can throw away Thule's instructions. At a very leisurely hour pace, a single person can easily install this.
1. Fit towers each to two spars loosely.
2. Position each spar at the front and back with towers on the rail. Do not tighten.
3. Slide one side rail onto a spar, load up spar nuts, then slide the other end on. Repeat for opposite side.
4. Attach corners to front rail and back rails, so you'll have [ and ]
5. With everything loose, fitting the front rail corners into the side rails isn't difficult. I chose the front first since it was the least accessible.
6. Fit rear rail on.
7. Measure, adjust, measure, adjust, etc. Test your tailgate and moonroof.
8. Tighten everything down.
9. Add additional spars.
10. Profit.
I went with the L since satellite radio isn't a concern for me and I didn't need to give the fin clearance. Thule specs a 'M' and I can confirm the 'L' fits. Thule rates it for 165lbs, but roof racks are rated for 'dynamic' and 'static' loads. It looks like almost every manufacturer (including Front Runner) sticks to 150kg for the dynamic load rating, even if they're rating it for 600+ static. I'm guessing this is some sort of liability deal. This made me feel better about the Thule since I also dig the looks and didn't want to drop my headliner.
The most dramatic thing to note is that the sides overhang around 5 1/2 inches from the roof top. This rack has a good spread. Strength-wise, I fiddled around with the crossbars and could make individual ones flex, but no more so than my old Front Runner Slimline ll rack. It's sturdy. Once I got it mounted and buttoned up I carefully did my awning test -- stepping up off a tire and bracing myself on just the edge of the rack and slowly putting my 200+ lbs of weight on it. I did this test in the middle -- the weakest point -- and even did some gentle rocking bounces. It held up just fine. I'm also pretty sure that if push came to shove, I could add another set of foot packs at spars #2 and #5 to complement the existing ones at #1 and #6. With the curvature of the roof, adding a tower in the center isn't doable.
I also tried some of my old FrontRunner hardware -- it doesn't fit. The Thule T-channels are more shallow, but wider. I could add any accessories from the FR catalog, but I'd need to get the Thule-sized nuts. All in all, I'm happy with it. It was exactly the solution I was hoping it would be. As seen in the pictures below, the rack allows both the tailgate to open and moonroof to tilt without interference.
Parts:
Thule Kit #186044
Thule Evo Flush Rail Foot Pack #710601
Thule Caprock Platform L #611003
Unless you want to add extra spars, this is all you need. Locks are included with the packs, so you don't need to buy those separately.
Again, note that Thule rates the foot packs for 165lbs and the rack size for an LX570 at M so you will be coloring outside the lines on this one.
Things to note:
You can throw away Thule's instructions. At a very leisurely hour pace, a single person can easily install this.
1. Fit towers each to two spars loosely.
2. Position each spar at the front and back with towers on the rail. Do not tighten.
3. Slide one side rail onto a spar, load up spar nuts, then slide the other end on. Repeat for opposite side.
4. Attach corners to front rail and back rails, so you'll have [ and ]
5. With everything loose, fitting the front rail corners into the side rails isn't difficult. I chose the front first since it was the least accessible.
6. Fit rear rail on.
7. Measure, adjust, measure, adjust, etc. Test your tailgate and moonroof.
8. Tighten everything down.
9. Add additional spars.
10. Profit.
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