I'm in the process of deleting my EGR system. My mechanic is about to also install a mechanical 2.8 pump, is it still possible to delete the plate inside the throttle body if running a mechanical pump?
Throttle plate delete on 2L-TE (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mr134x4
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John in Utah
SILVER Star
Frequently done AFAIK and the 3L doesn’t have a throttle plate anyway so no issues with your pump change.
Try searching the diesel or 70 series forum, lots of info on this over there.
Try searching the diesel or 70 series forum, lots of info on this over there.
For sure it is possible to delete. I have a 2L-TII with mechanical injection pump, and I deleted mine.
Seems to run much smoother.
Seems to run much smoother.
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Thanks guys
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Where is your speed cable linked to? my mechanic has the speed cable connected to a linkage and onto the the throttle plate, and now that I've told him I want the throttle plate removed he is confused as to where the speed cable will be linked to.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
If you're keeping your engine with the 2LTE injection pump and computer control, you keep the throttle cable exactly as it is. Leave the throttle shaft and throttle position sensor UNTOUCHED. Only remove the throttle plate (drill out two screws and slide it out of shaft).
If you're changing your engine to mechanical injection with a 2LT-II or 3L injection pump, then you need to change all the linkage over to what those engines need. I believe you'll need a longer throttle cable, and it runs down to the top of the injection pump.
You can always go to Megazip and look at EPC drawings for various vehicles. This will help you figure out what linkage parts you need to use the mechanical injection pump.
Hope you have manual transmission. If your truck is auto, you'll have a hard time getting the transmission to work when scrapping the electronic engine control.
John in Utah
SILVER Star
I can take some photos of the 3L pump linkage if you need it. Sounds like you’re trying to use the 2lte intake but it may be easier if you can find a 3L intake with all the throttle linkage bits.
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Thanks, makes so much sense now, yes its manual so I think we should be able to source parts locally as well
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photos will be awesome brother, thanks heaps
John in Utah
SILVER Star
This is the assembly you need, PN: 78100-35071 is circled in blue. The red circle is an intake manifold bracket you might have to custom make if you want to use your 2lte manifold, or maybe the 2lt has a swappable match. Bracket PN: 78472-35010
Here is a 5L with the newer NA manifold that looks a lot like the 2lt/2lte ones with the 90 degree bend. I have a hiace engine with this style and it doesn't look like any of pump linkages are different between it and my hilux engine. The blue circle is showing the bolt to the manifold, again this might be something you need to drill and tap into your 2lte manifold or make some kind of custom bracket. Also you can see the rod I circled red is the one labeled 78104 in the diagram above, that is how the linkage assembly will connect to the pump - you might want to check if this came with your 3l pump, this is PN: 78104-22140.
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Thanks for the help guys, the next part we would like to work out is the vacuum hoses, which ones to remove and which to keep, again a photo will be massive help, no ones ever done these mods in my country before lol
John in Utah
SILVER Star
Id have to look but I think the only vacuum line on the 3L is from the back of the alternator to the AC idle up on the pump.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I think in the Hilux Surf vacuum is used for brake booster, 4x4 VSV's also. And of course all the emissions stuff. But if removing emissions (throttle plates, EGR), the vacuum lines can be disconnected there.
@mr134x4 Be sure not to confuse the vacuum system with the boost line that runs to the boost sensor or injection pump boost compensator. They're two separate systems.
John in Utah
SILVER Star
Yea, don’t want to disconnect the booster! This brings up a good point though, his pump won’t come with a boost compensator so that will need to be swapped over from a 2ltii pump if you desired.
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GTSSportCoupe cheers for that bit of detail
John in Utah We haven't swapped over the boost compensator, is it a must? or can I go without it?
John in Utah We haven't swapped over the boost compensator, is it a must? or can I go without it?
John in Utah
SILVER Star
You can go without it (I don’t have one) but you’ll want to look at getting one if you turn the fuel up much more than stock. You would need to find a manual 2ltii (1990+) pump to rob it from.
What are you guys currently idling at on your 2LTE's with a deleted throttle plate? I currently idle at around 900RPM, which is above the average for a stock rig, i am unsure whether or not the addition of more air idle's it at a higher RPM. When my plate was deleted, the throttle cable position was messed with. I have a couple intake hoses in the mail, and when all of that is torn off i'm going to check the TPS sensor is calibrated correctly regardless.
mr134x4, I also have a 2LTE surf, my EGR is deleted and i've deleted as much vac as i can. I can post a few pictures if you require. If you want to get rid of even more VAC hoses cluttering your engine bay and remove the ADD, get a pair of manual hubs, and you can either get an earlier IFS front diff from a 1st gen runner without the vac actuated diff, or you can modify your existing housing, there is a great writeup here Toyota Tech: Defeating the ADD System.
I haven't yet deleted mine, but if i ever encounter problems with the actuator i will deal a swift and quick blow to my ADD system. I still have manual hubs though, and as i somewhat daily it, it put's a bit less wear and tear on your front drivetrain with the wheels disconnected. In theory it improves your mileage, however if that's your reason for getting hubs it might take more than a few road trips for them to pay themselves off.
mr134x4, I also have a 2LTE surf, my EGR is deleted and i've deleted as much vac as i can. I can post a few pictures if you require. If you want to get rid of even more VAC hoses cluttering your engine bay and remove the ADD, get a pair of manual hubs, and you can either get an earlier IFS front diff from a 1st gen runner without the vac actuated diff, or you can modify your existing housing, there is a great writeup here Toyota Tech: Defeating the ADD System.
I haven't yet deleted mine, but if i ever encounter problems with the actuator i will deal a swift and quick blow to my ADD system. I still have manual hubs though, and as i somewhat daily it, it put's a bit less wear and tear on your front drivetrain with the wheels disconnected. In theory it improves your mileage, however if that's your reason for getting hubs it might take more than a few road trips for them to pay themselves off.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Removing the throttle plate should not impact idle speed.
If your throttle cable is too tight, it could cause higher rpm for sure. It's easy to check; just a couple 10mm (or 12?) nuts. Re-adjust so the cable is just loose enough it doesn't open the throttle at all, but there isn't much slack either.
If your TPS was loosened off at all during the throttle plate removal, it could also cause higher rpm. Hopefully this is not the case. They are a bit of a pain to calibrate (been there done that on other Toyotas).
The other thing that sometimes increases idle speed is too much increase in fuel at the spill control valve; not sure if you've adjusted that or not.
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