Threw a rod on the 3B what else fits?

[cruiser_guy]

Well let's say it this way then, at least the engine and tranny will couple up and it will bolt to the mounts. That alone makes things easier. Spare parts, and I'll assume there must be some, are a bonus!

 

[cruiser_guy]

What engine has a 12v alternator to fit a late model 3B without the vacuum pump on the alternator?

3B or 14B which is most desirable? Neither fit my turbo due to exhaust manifold bolt pattern. Can heads be swapped from my 3B to the later 3B?

 

[cruiser_guy]

Sorry about to hear this and hope you can get the rig back on her feet. I can tell you that a 14bt exhaust manifold has different bolt patterns then the B-series rigs. But the intake is the same. If you run into that engine w/exhaust manifold I can help you with the adapter so that you can get your turbo mounted as I know your along way from home. Good luck, hopefully a suitable solution with present itself.

It looks like the later 3B has that same bolt pattern, 3 bolts at #1 & 4 and two at #2 & 3. Let me know what you have.
I have paid for a late model ex-Dyna 3B with an integral vacuum pump and power steering pump.
I'm hopeful it's not too different than mine but I have no illusions about an easy swap.
An alternator from a 4Runner is almost a bolt up to replace the 24v non-vacuum pump alternator.
Anyone have the pin configuration to match up the 4Runner alternator to the Land Cruiser wiring? I'm assuming the 4Runner alternator is internally regulated.

 

[tmarx]

3B or 14B which is most desirable?

From my limited exposure with both engines fitted to a 40 series, I would say the 14B without hesitation. Better performance(HP and Torque) and better economy on and off road.In Africa spares for the 14B would be more readily available

2c

 

[cruiser_guy]

From my limited exposure with both engines fitted to a 40 series, I would say the 14B without hesitation. Better performance(HP and Torque) and better economy on and off road.In Africa spares for the 14B would be more readily available

2c

Well the importer had three 3B engines and just one 14B. I decided to go with the 3B hoping I might have a few spares. All the 3B engines were ex-Dyna with the air intake on the side and MUCH later manufacture than my original engine.

 

[Diesel42]

PM sent

 

[cruiser_guy]

Anyone have any ideas to configure the throttle linkage on a rotary pump 3B from a Dyna to an '82 BJ60?

How about where to mount the power steering reservoir? On the Dyna engine with a built in power steering pump looks like the power steering reservoir will hit the brake booster if it is left "as found".

Ideas to fab power steering pressure hoses? The existing hoses are cut when the engine was pulled and the engine was originally a right hand drive from Japan so the hoses are going to the wrong side anyways.

 

[roalco]

For the power steering hoses, 2 options I would do, first take the old hose ends and hoses to a hydraulics shop and they can make custom ones up for you. You could also use the old ends , braced to common hydraulic fittings to enable you to use re-useable hydraulic hose ends. Then the hose can be replaced at will.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Does the rotary injection pump need or use a low pressure pump from the fuel tank to the fuel filter like the lift pump on the inline injection pumps? Do I just use a fuel filter head with the built in pump on it to prime the system?

 

[handcannon]

Charles, the info I have may or may not be applicable to your situation, but here goes.

I now have a Chev pickup with the 6.5 TD. The 6.2 and 6.5 use a Stanadyne rotary injection pump. The 6.2 uses a mechanical lift pump, mounted just like the mechanicals on the F/2F I-6s and all the older GM V8 motors. The 6.5 uses an electric lift pump mounted on the frame not very far from the tank. If my memory is any good the pressures needed for the Stanadyne IP that GM used is about 14 to 15 lbs max.

The stock GM electric LP is very anemic in the pressure category and will go to 0 PSI under WOT situations. It is not uncommon for 6.5 owners to go to aftermarket LPs. I went with a Carter LP (don't remember the model#, but can get it if you need it).

One of the biggest things for GM 6.5 owners that go with aftermarket LPs is a flow-on-fail pump. The Stanadyne IP will pull fuel after a LP failure IF the fuel is already at the IP, however it is hard on the IP if left like this for very long. If the rotary pump on your "new" motor is able to pull fuel during an LP failure make sure any LP you use is flow-on-fail capable. I'm not sure about my Carter pump, but there is a Walbro aftermarket pump commonly used on 6.5s that is flow-on-fail. If you want info on either one let me know.

Don

 

[lostmarbles]

Does the rotary injection pump need or use a low pressure pump from the fuel tank to the fuel filter like the lift pump on the inline injection pumps? Do I just use a fuel filter head with the built in pump on it to prime the system?

This pic from the 1988 B, 3B, 11B, 14B FSM should answer all your questions:



(No and Yes .. respectively)

The rotary pump has its own inbuilt fuel pump that should be sufficient on its own.

And this diagram shows the exact type of fuel-filter/primer-pump assembly you refer to.

 

[lostmarbles]

By the way, I suppose you've noticed that you don't have a return line (back to the tank) on your BJ60 whose fuel circuit looks like this (I believe):



So as part of this engine-conversion work I think you need to make one.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Thanks! I have 15' of fuel line I picked up for the return line. I have a long range tank with a return fitting that has been plugged so the tank is OK. I've seen an American market FJ60 that looks like it might be getting parted in Freetown so I might try for a proper return line from that.

I think I can find the primer pump/filter locally.

Can I continue with the separator that is factory on the BJ60? That way I don't need the special fitting and filters if I convert the primer pump to a water separator.

Don,
Thanks for those ideas. It looks like the Toyota IP has a built in lift pump already! I'll monitor it and see how it goes. I'll also see if I can find out more on-line about what the Dyna truck (where this engine comes from) uses but from the diagram it looks like I was expecting.

 

[lostmarbles]

...Can I continue with the separator that is factory on the BJ60? ...

Separator?

I don't see any problem with leaving your original old BJ60 sedimenter in place in the fuel supply line to your new Dyna rotary pump (if that's what you're asking).

....That way I don't need the special fitting and filters if I convert the primer pump to a water separator.....

Sorry I get confused easily.

I'm guessing you have your original BJ60 sedimenter in place (slung underneath on a chassis rail or wherever Toyota put it) and your primer pump and filter went awol as soon as you removed your old 3B (that suffered "a leg out of bed").

So you've bunged in your new Dyna 3B engine and you find it is without any inbuilt fuel-filter or inbuilt primer pump (because Toyota mounted those off-the-motor in the Dyna it came from).

Well then I think the solution for you is to find "a fuel filter with inbuilt primer pump" and fit it in your engine bay so you end up with fuel going from your tank, through your sedimenter, through your fuel filter and into your rotary IP and retain the ability to bleed out trapped air after filter cartridge changing.



PS. If your old sedimenter was working fine, or more importantly, not leaking, then there's certainly no need to remove it. It doesn't restrict fuel flow. AFAIK it just collects water and other "sediments" (that are heavier than diesel) that get trapped in the bottom of its "catcher".

PPS. My BJ40 has no sedimenter. But that's fine for me because our diesel is pretty clean in this country and a fuel filter cartridge serves the same purpose (but to a lesser extent ... unless it's a particularly long one) anyway in addition to its filtration job.

PPPS. Avoid mounting the "fuel-filter-primer-combo" lower than the connecting fuel lines because that will make it hard to get rid of the air that would infiltrate the fuel lines during filter changes. (But I'm probably wasting my time saying this because not many people would consider mounting such a thing low anyway.)

 

[cruiser_guy]

Separator?

I don't see any problem with leaving your original old BJ60 sedimenter in place in the fuel supply line to your new Dyna rotary pump (if that's what you're asking).

I'm guessing you have your original BJ60 sedimenter in place (slung underneath on a chassis rail or wherever Toyota put it) and your primer pump and filter went awol as soon as you removed your old 3B (that suffered "a leg out of bed").

So you've bunged in your new Dyna 3B engine and you find it is without any inbuilt fuel-filter or inbuilt primer pump (because Toyota mounted those off-the-motor in the Dyna it came from).

Well then I think the solution for you is to find "a fuel filter with inbuilt primer pump" and fit it in your engine bay so you end up with fuel going from your tank, through your sedimenter, through your fuel filter and into your rotary IP and retain the ability to bleed out trapped air after filter cartridge changing.

Exactly what I was asking and hoping to do!

Thanks!

 

[Diesel42]

By the way, I suppose you've noticed that you don't have a return line (back to the tank) on your BJ60 whose fuel circuit looks like this (I believe):

View attachment 656925

So as part of this engine-conversion work I think you need to make one.

Tom,
You are without question our resident LC thesaurus.

 

[leonelcanut]

So, do you guys know if you can use a 3B block but change all internals and head from a 4B ? Cheers