Threaded insert in manifold question (1 Viewer)

[jhynesrockmtn]

I am in the process of converting my 2f to a sniper using the red line manifold adapter.

When I removed the man a fre Weber adapter, I found that the manifold had been tapped and had half inch threaded inserts.

Two of them came out when I removed the studs. I was able to get them removed from the studs and cleaned up. The other two stayed in the manifold. I'm just wondering what I should use on the threaded inserts after they've been cleaned up to make sure that they seat well and don't leak. I've got blue and red threadlocker, but I've also got a couple different gasket sealants.

 

[Skreddy]

I use the permatex aviation form-a-gasket #3 on the ones that go all the way through on the intake.

 

[Jdc1]

I am in the process of converting my 2f to a sniper using the red line manifold adapter.

When I removed the man a fre Weber adapter, I found that the manifold had been tapped and had half inch threaded inserts.

Two of them came out when I removed the studs. I was able to get them removed from the studs and cleaned up. The other two stayed in the manifold. I'm just wondering what I should use on the threaded inserts after they've been cleaned up to make sure that they seat well and don't leak. I've got blue and red threadlocker, but I've also got a couple different gasket sealants.

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I’d run a keen seet or time seer with JB on the threads to seal. If you don’t want to get that aggressive, Permatex Anerobic has worked well for me.

 

[Grayscale]

I'd carefully check that the brazed(?) connection between the metric set-screw and the 1/2-inch threaded insert is perpendicular to the manifold plane that the factory milled flat and the carb riser once rested. Otherwise, it seems like a decent repair. Ideally, a stainless steel Helicoil insert makes for the best connections into aluminum, or cast aluminum. I wonder if the connecting nut didn't take valuable space for threading or in the holes of the spacer/adapter. I wouldn't have reached for an Allen-head set-screw though. That said, it would be nice to assemble it with wavy washers, and split-lock washers - as the larger 1/2-inch insert and the set-screw's harder steel make the replacement studs stretch less, for a given amount of tightening at the nut. I'd clean the threads with acetone, and compressed air, and use the blue threadlocker (don't want to strip them any more), if I saw the need to make a seal between the manifold and the replacement stud's threads.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Lots of choices. You could do shanked studs that have 2 different sizes, likely easier to get it SAE on both ends. I have made my own that are SAE one one end and metric on the other. You could just put it back together with either Loctite could work - shouldn't get that hot due to the header.

 

[1911]

Permatex also makes a high-temperature thread sealant.

Like @Grayscale , I would be concerned about the inserts being perfectly perpendicular to the mating surface.

 

[jhynesrockmtn]

I reused the two that came out, cleaned them and re insterted them with some JB weld. Hopefully that works ok. They sit fairly flush. I had smoke tested the previous setup and didn't see any issues. They are the right thread size for the allen bolts Red Line supplies with their kit. Fingers crossed. Thanks everyone.