Thoughts on ML replacement plan? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Threads
38
Messages
694
Location
Atlanta, GA
Having done the non-nav swap, I’m wanting to “finalize” the audio portion of my build by replacing the ML setup.

While the re-foamed speakers and sub sound good, some of the other speakers are starting to go. Rather than mix and match aftermarket 4-ohm speakers into the ML setup, I’m going to pull the entire thing, and go all aftermarket.

Im a total novice to all things audio. Started with a call to crutchfield, and got the following suggestions for a basic, non-audiophile build.

I made the mistake of posting this proposed build on a car audio enthusiast page, hoping to get some opinions on if it would meet my needs. Instead I was flamed out for even having the gall to suggest spending under $1000 on a basic build, and not getting at least a 10” sub with a custom build enclosure. Enthusiasts I guess.

Anyway, the recommendations from crutchfield are below. It’s a bit pricier than my ideal budget (< $700 if possible). I drive about 15-20 hours a week, listen to a wide range of music: metal, hip hop, some classic rock, some country.

I’m no audiophile - everything is played from Spotify via CarPlay. I don’t listen very loud, but every now and then a song comes on that I want to crank the volume a bit.

Head Unit (already purchased and installed)
Sony XAV-AX5500

Amp
Soundstream Picasso Nano pn5.640d
Really happy with the reviews on this and the price. About the only component I’m not worried about.

Front Doors
Infinity REF-6530cx component speakers
Factory is 6x9 - are there 6x9s that would be better price / quality?
Is 6.5” just way more common, and getting an adapter a better plan?

Second row doors
Infinity REF-6532ex 2-way
Do I even need speakers for the second row if no one ever rides there? I believe that they recommended the cheaper 2-ways instead of components because it’s the 2nd row.

Sub
Kicker 44TCWC102
There’s gotta be an option that could go in the factory location with some modification, yeah? I’d prefer having the cargo bay open for storage, drawers, etc. Will go with a sub in a box if that’s really necessary.

All in this would cost ~$750…add in cables from HU to amp + wire from amp to speakers + misc fuses + sound deadening. I’d guesstimate ~$1000 total.

So yeah…thoughts? Is this total overkill for someone so time deaf they can’t tune a guitar without an electric tuner? Just don’t want to hear cracking/buzzing from shot speakers, and have better-than-factory audio quality.
 
I’m not really an audiophile but I just purchased some similar spec to OEM, Dayton audio or similar 8ohm speakers off parts-express to replace all the OEM stuff. Kept the ML amp tied in to my Alpine HU.

Then I added a stand-alone alpine mono amp for the same exact kicker sub in your post, but the 4ohm version.

Sort of a compromise to upgrading worn out speakers and adding a better sub. When I get tired of that I will probably add a stand-alone amp for just the front door woofers.
 
That’s not a bad option. I’m really happy with the ML setup - just frustrated with the couple speakers that are going.

Seems like that might actually be a better use of my budget for this project than going for all new speakers and an amp. Get oem or oem-like replacements for the top 2 speakers (think a tweeter and mid range) in the front doors and leave ML in place. Not even unhappy with the stock sub…but could definitely grab a mono channel amp + sub.

Guessing you run the sub line from the head unit to the mono channel amp to your kicker? Just no sub channel running to the ML amp?
 
I am a bit of an audiophile, but also like the challenge of building a system on a specific budget.

Nothing wrong with the system they put together for you, but I will throw out a few ideas.

Your Sony headunit has 55w per channel, but with that amp, you wouldn't be using any of it.

You could easily run a Coaxial 6.5"or 6x9" in the front door and 6.5" in the rear door using the Sony head unit power.

You could then run a similar 1 or 2 channel amp to the sub

This would get you closer to your budget and still be a solid system.

I definitely would install rear speakers in the doors. I have seen people put in a 6.5" or 8" sub (with mods) in the factory sub location, but won't equal that 10" you have selected.
 
That’s not a bad option. I’m really happy with the ML setup - just frustrated with the couple speakers that are going.

Seems like that might actually be a better use of my budget for this project than going for all new speakers and an amp. Get oem or oem-like replacements for the top 2 speakers (think a tweeter and mid range) in the front doors and leave ML in place. Not even unhappy with the stock sub…but could definitely grab a mono channel amp + sub.

Guessing you run the sub line from the head unit to the mono channel amp to your kicker? Just no sub channel running to the ML amp?

Yeah rca from HU to mono amp to sub. My OEM sub was dead on purchase so it’s currently unplugged and out of the equation. I’m adding a marine type access panel to that interior body panel and just going to turn it into more storage space at some point soon.
 
I am a bit of an audiophile, but also like the challenge of building a system on a specific budget.

Nothing wrong with the system they put together for you, but I will throw out a few ideas.

Your Sony headunit has 55w per channel, but with that amp, you wouldn't be using any of it.

Thank you for the detailed answer! Some questions incoming because I really don’t know much about this stuff at all.

Probably a stupid question - but I the amp has 60 watt RMS for the 4 channels. Is that different than the 55 watt per channel from the HU?

Is the idea that I could save money on amp, spend it on good speakers for the front and rear doors, and wire them to the head unit? Then run a mono channel amp to either a sub that fits in the factory box, or a new sub + enclosure?

Some of the folks on the car audio forum I visited told me that the ML hardware is top notch, and I’d need a real serious amp to get better quality than I currently have. Does that sound reasonable? I know ML makes killer home audio gear, but we’re talking about a $1200 system from 18 years ago…
 
Fwiw. I recently upgraded my door speakers because my oem ones were failing. The parts I used are linked below. The speakers are 6x9 and are 8 ohm so they are the same resistance as stock.

For the subwoofer I bought the skar 6.5 subwoofer that’s a dual 4 ohm coil and plan to bridge them together for 8 ohm. I just haven’t installed it yet. There are some write ups on YouTube about these exact speakers being installed on a ML setup.

 
thank you for the suggestion - I wish I’d had that link before re-foaming my 6x9s!

I’ve had all the 6x9s refoamed. So they’re in good shape. It’s the top 2 speakers in the front door (tweeter and mid range maybe?) that are on their way out.

Been getting more suggestions to leave the ML amp in place and get solid speakers to replace the ones that are failing. So thinking that may be the route for now. I’ll check out that link and see if they also have speakers that fit the other spots.
 
I'm currently taking a similar path to what you're looking at... I'm ripping out the entire ML system (amplifier and all speakers) and going with two separate amplifiers... one for the door speakers, and one for the subwoofer. I'm really aiming for sound quality without breaking the bank so I'm spending about $2500.

For your budget, though I'd suggest the same as @ogsuv ... Run your door speakers off the Sony head unit directly. Get some 6.5" component speakers for the front doors and some 6.5" coaxials for the rear doors. For the sub, get a small mono amplifier and a small 10" in a box. Check out the Kicker 48CDF104... it's similar to the box you posted but faces down which could save space in the cargo area. You can definitely get that all done for under $700.
 
For visual reference, here's the Kicker 48CDF104 in the rear of a GX:

PXL_20220124_004514507.jpg
 
Thank you for the info @binaryaudax!

I did not realize how expensive even a baseline sound setup for the car is! I figured for $700 I could totally outperform the stock ML setup.

I’m thinking that - given my budget - my best options are what y’all suggest or just replacing the 3 speakers that are having issues and leaving the ML system intact (even oem that would run me like $400 online).

Can take my time and save for a proper “buy once, cry once” install, but didn’t realize it would be almost as expensive as my suspension install!

Excited to watch your build thread and learn from it.
 
Thank you for the detailed answer! Some questions incoming because I really don’t know much about this stuff at all.

Probably a stupid question - but I the amp has 60 watt RMS for the 4 channels. Is that different than the 55 watt per channel from the HU?

Is the idea that I could save money on amp, spend it on good speakers for the front and rear doors, and wire them to the head unit? Then run a mono channel amp to either a sub that fits in the factory box, or a new sub + enclosure?

Some of the folks on the car audio forum I visited told me that the ML hardware is top notch, and I’d need a real serious amp to get better quality than I currently have. Does that sound reasonable? I know ML makes killer home audio gear, but we’re talking about a $1200 system from 18 years ago…
Hard to say if the 55w head unit power and the 60w amp power are actual ratings, but I would say close enough that you won't notice a difference. Yes, exactly, use the sony to power front and rear speakers and take the extra money and stick it back in your pocket or put into a mono amp and sub.

I mean ML has quite the following in home audio, but comparing that to what is in the GX470s is crazy. I built a budget system that includes some speakers less than $40 per pair and they sound a million times better than the ML speakers.

I am all for building a system in small steps as an option too. No reason everything has to be put in all at once.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom