Having done the non-nav swap, I’m wanting to “finalize” the audio portion of my build by replacing the ML setup.
While the re-foamed speakers and sub sound good, some of the other speakers are starting to go. Rather than mix and match aftermarket 4-ohm speakers into the ML setup, I’m going to pull the entire thing, and go all aftermarket.
Im a total novice to all things audio. Started with a call to crutchfield, and got the following suggestions for a basic, non-audiophile build.
I made the mistake of posting this proposed build on a car audio enthusiast page, hoping to get some opinions on if it would meet my needs. Instead I was flamed out for even having the gall to suggest spending under $1000 on a basic build, and not getting at least a 10” sub with a custom build enclosure. Enthusiasts I guess.
Anyway, the recommendations from crutchfield are below. It’s a bit pricier than my ideal budget (< $700 if possible). I drive about 15-20 hours a week, listen to a wide range of music: metal, hip hop, some classic rock, some country.
I’m no audiophile - everything is played from Spotify via CarPlay. I don’t listen very loud, but every now and then a song comes on that I want to crank the volume a bit.
Head Unit (already purchased and installed)
Sony XAV-AX5500
Amp
Soundstream Picasso Nano pn5.640d
Really happy with the reviews on this and the price. About the only component I’m not worried about.
Front Doors
Infinity REF-6530cx component speakers
Factory is 6x9 - are there 6x9s that would be better price / quality?
Is 6.5” just way more common, and getting an adapter a better plan?
Second row doors
Infinity REF-6532ex 2-way
Do I even need speakers for the second row if no one ever rides there? I believe that they recommended the cheaper 2-ways instead of components because it’s the 2nd row.
Sub
Kicker 44TCWC102
There’s gotta be an option that could go in the factory location with some modification, yeah? I’d prefer having the cargo bay open for storage, drawers, etc. Will go with a sub in a box if that’s really necessary.
All in this would cost ~$750…add in cables from HU to amp + wire from amp to speakers + misc fuses + sound deadening. I’d guesstimate ~$1000 total.
So yeah…thoughts? Is this total overkill for someone so time deaf they can’t tune a guitar without an electric tuner? Just don’t want to hear cracking/buzzing from shot speakers, and have better-than-factory audio quality.
While the re-foamed speakers and sub sound good, some of the other speakers are starting to go. Rather than mix and match aftermarket 4-ohm speakers into the ML setup, I’m going to pull the entire thing, and go all aftermarket.
Im a total novice to all things audio. Started with a call to crutchfield, and got the following suggestions for a basic, non-audiophile build.
I made the mistake of posting this proposed build on a car audio enthusiast page, hoping to get some opinions on if it would meet my needs. Instead I was flamed out for even having the gall to suggest spending under $1000 on a basic build, and not getting at least a 10” sub with a custom build enclosure. Enthusiasts I guess.
Anyway, the recommendations from crutchfield are below. It’s a bit pricier than my ideal budget (< $700 if possible). I drive about 15-20 hours a week, listen to a wide range of music: metal, hip hop, some classic rock, some country.
I’m no audiophile - everything is played from Spotify via CarPlay. I don’t listen very loud, but every now and then a song comes on that I want to crank the volume a bit.
Head Unit (already purchased and installed)
Sony XAV-AX5500
Amp
Soundstream Picasso Nano pn5.640d
Really happy with the reviews on this and the price. About the only component I’m not worried about.
Front Doors
Infinity REF-6530cx component speakers
Factory is 6x9 - are there 6x9s that would be better price / quality?
Is 6.5” just way more common, and getting an adapter a better plan?
Second row doors
Infinity REF-6532ex 2-way
Do I even need speakers for the second row if no one ever rides there? I believe that they recommended the cheaper 2-ways instead of components because it’s the 2nd row.
Sub
Kicker 44TCWC102
There’s gotta be an option that could go in the factory location with some modification, yeah? I’d prefer having the cargo bay open for storage, drawers, etc. Will go with a sub in a box if that’s really necessary.
All in this would cost ~$750…add in cables from HU to amp + wire from amp to speakers + misc fuses + sound deadening. I’d guesstimate ~$1000 total.
So yeah…thoughts? Is this total overkill for someone so time deaf they can’t tune a guitar without an electric tuner? Just don’t want to hear cracking/buzzing from shot speakers, and have better-than-factory audio quality.