- Thread starter
- #41
Got to pass a hoop at work before I buy anything. Brought it up to the wife and while she’s ok, she wants something more practical. She seems to think a 4 seater and streetable are where it should go.
Thought exercise (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter archie73
- Start date
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You'll be able to set up the gears. Just know that the Dana patterns can look bizarre but be set up correctly (look up the Dana 60 gear pattern and you'll see what I mean). I set up my fronts probably twenty different times not liking the pattern (pattern looked good according to the guide) before handing it off to a friend who does it for a living. He said my setup was good, then did the rear for me and showed how the patterns are just different than we are used to seeing on toyota thirds and 14 bolts.
I wouldn’t bother with a kingpin front nowadays, if you are willing to go driver drop you can run a set of 05+ super duty axles and have stronger knuckles, better brakes, rear disks with a drum in disc e brake, and they are pretty easy to find and not too expensive.
I would also consider going 5.3 & 4l65 to atlas.
I would also consider going 5.3 & 4l65 to atlas.
- Thread starter
- #44
What’s the pricicinv like on the super duty axles? I hadn’t considered them.
they are all over eBay, and you could probably find something local on car-part or Hollander parts. You would want to avoid a DRW axle but beyond that there are some me options for different gear ratios and years. I think 11+ have bigger brakes and some of the rear axles have a e-locker. I would run SD rear also to match the metric wheel bolt pattern.
here’s some example:
Front Axle 3.73 Ratio Fits 05-07 FORD F250SD PICKUP 345942 | eBay
FORD F250SD PICKUP 06-07 3.73 ratio. FORD F250SD PICKUP 05 exc. FORD F350SD PICKUP 05 SRW, exc. FORD F350SD PICKUP 06-07 SRW, 3.73 ratio. If you have a problem with the part, changed your mind or the part does not fit, simply let us know.
www.ebay.com
Front Axle Assembly 11 12 Ford F250 Super Duty Srw 3.73 Ratio 50476 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Front Axle Assembly 11 12 Ford F250 Super Duty Srw 3.73 Ratio 50476 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Rear Axle Pickup Srw Gasoline 5.4L Fits 08-10 FORD F250SD PICKUP 481362 | eBay
FORD F250SD PICKUP 08-10 (pickup), (SRW), gasoline, 6.8L, 4.10 ratio. FORD F250SD PICKUP 08-10 (pickup), (SRW), gasoline, 5.4L, 4.10 ratio. FORD F350SD PICKUP 08-10 pickup (Styleside box), SRW, gasoline, 6.8L, 4.10 ratio.
www.ebay.com
Obviously you’d shop for the best deal shipped based on condition etc.
- Thread starter
- #46
That is very enticing. I was always thinking 60’s were the tried and true, but I like having options. If I found one with the locker that could save some coin. I’ll have to look at what the aftermarket looks like- the depth of Dana 60 parts is a big part of the appeal should I want to upgrade in the future. Sure seems like there’s no shortage of SD’s on the road. Keep the ideas coming!!!
SD's are cheap, plentiful, strong, and have a great aftermarket. The sterlings are also very simple to set up gears on.
I am building something very similar to what you are talking about. I bought a truck with the drivetrain in it, and then made it fit in my FJ40. It is just getting ready to road-test, so I don't have any wheeling feedback yet. Vortec 350/SM465/NP203/Splitcase I stretched the hood 5" to push the motor forward to get the t-case back in the stock location. There are so many things that I had to do to make that work, and like others mentioned, it a lot of work to make fit in a full-bodied rig with a frame. I used the ruff-stuff rear 4-link and TMR 3-link kit in the front. I have a front Dana 60 from a 92 Dodge 1-ton, and a 14-bolt rear axle. I have 37s on it now, and 40s will fit.
With the rear coil-overs outside of the frame (for passenger room), there was a lot of work to make that fit, and even then, it just barely fits. I also wanted to keep the body with the hard-top to be able to go 4x4ing in sub-zero temps and drive it on the road once in a while.
I think your estimate is low, but I bought everything for mine in Canadian Pesos, so maybe that's where my gut feel comes from. There are a lot of knick-knacks that add up to a lot of $, AN fittings, hose, brake lines, fuel pump, fluids, wiring, driveshafts, etc. I would hate to add up what I have spent on this project.
With the rear coil-overs outside of the frame (for passenger room), there was a lot of work to make that fit, and even then, it just barely fits. I also wanted to keep the body with the hard-top to be able to go 4x4ing in sub-zero temps and drive it on the road once in a while.
I think your estimate is low, but I bought everything for mine in Canadian Pesos, so maybe that's where my gut feel comes from. There are a lot of knick-knacks that add up to a lot of $, AN fittings, hose, brake lines, fuel pump, fluids, wiring, driveshafts, etc. I would hate to add up what I have spent on this project.
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanks for the input, cool rig. I’m not looking for a full body rig or a top. Altough I’m starting to second guess the two seater concept. That may rule this rig out, but not yet. As far as fitting the drivetrain in the stock frame, I pretty sure it’s been done. I’m not thinking of using a doubler. I’m pretty sure the TH400 will fit with a longer wheelbase. Or Areyou referring to the dana 300 not fitting? I think @SuperBuickGuy has one in his rig. I’ll double check his build. This would be a limiting factor as I’d rather not shell out for another Orion. At least not when the atlas isn’t that much more.
You’re probably right on the final number, but isn’t this how we convince ourselves to commit. Truth be told, I’m not done with the current build and it needs paint and bunch of little stuff that will be time consuming. Truth is, this will be on the back burner until I get the first more along. The chassis is full of potential(good and bad) with some wiggle room on the price I could horde it until I have rest of the parts.
- Thread starter
- #50
I got the BOM for the other axles the other day- they appear to be a 60/70 combo out of a 1991 dodge. At this price it’s tempting to make an offer and they’re local. I’m open to the sterling as well.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
A kingpin axle is pretty cool, with lots of high strength upgrades available. You could also build a really interesting front axle with a high pinion Ford center with Chevy/Dodge outers.
You are going to have to settle on a budget. Do that first. If budget is tight, you're going to have to make compromises. If this is a family wheeler, you should start with a long wheel base. Or, do you need to do this at all. Maybe you can go everywhere you want already with what you have.
I will say that I bought parts to do a big build with domestic parts, big axles etc. But I have found that I can go to the Rubicon, Dusy-Ershim and All over Death Valley and Mojave with what I already have. So the big build got shelved. Maybe in time it will happen. Be sure you need to do this, because you may not need it.
But if you want to just do it, you will need a lot of spare cash. A lot. And more. More than you can imagine.
You are going to have to settle on a budget. Do that first. If budget is tight, you're going to have to make compromises. If this is a family wheeler, you should start with a long wheel base. Or, do you need to do this at all. Maybe you can go everywhere you want already with what you have.
I will say that I bought parts to do a big build with domestic parts, big axles etc. But I have found that I can go to the Rubicon, Dusy-Ershim and All over Death Valley and Mojave with what I already have. So the big build got shelved. Maybe in time it will happen. Be sure you need to do this, because you may not need it.
But if you want to just do it, you will need a lot of spare cash. A lot. And more. More than you can imagine.
- Thread starter
- #52
I'll look into this, I'm still wavering on what the best axle is for such a rig. Unfortunately it'll fall in line with the budget/skill set on hand.
So that '40 shell sold, not the end of the world. I've been thinking about the four seater dilemma and what other possibilities are out there. Even though I'd lean toward a domestic drivetrain, my aesthetics are more on the Toy based rigs. This has me wondering about a 2nd gen runner. They seem to priced decent with a couple dents or blown drivetrain. The downside to these seems to be the tight packaging they require(V8 and link suspension). Upside is, after chopping the rear off, they seem to provide a relatively small cab in relation to the full size axles. A bobbed version of Caitlyn would be in my list:
I envision the current 40 to be the Rubicon, "light" wheeler that's capable of highway driving. It has the v8, sm465, orion and ARB. Oh and a full body in descent shape. The main reason for this build would be to build it and find out how capable I am. I'm not running out and buying anything right now, more trying to get an idea of what it would take.
What are the rules and regulations as far as smog goes where you are at. The biggest deal breaker in California with modern vehicles and V8 swaps is smog. What about a 3rd gen 4runner w/ a 4.7l v8? I know we are starting to deviate from the affordability idea....
- Thread starter
- #54
Luckily, that’s not an issue here in eastern Idaho. More to the point I don’t know that this this would be street legal anyhow. I guess it’d be nice not having to trailer between camp and trails in Moab.
I’m sure people are making v8’s work in the second gen, but seems like it would be a squeeze. I’ll research it.
3rd gen would likely be to expensive. 2nd gen are attractive because a roller can be had as cheap.
- Thread starter
- #55
Ok the (potential) saga lapses and the 40 shell is sold. The desire is still there and more likely morphing into a 4Runner truggy. I love the idea of it being fj40 based, but I should really have 4 doors. Sooo There is a 97 3.4L manual for sale locally. Needs a transfer case repair/replacement, but said to run (208,000 miles). Body is fair to ugly-perfect. What’s the build progression with something like this for a starting point?
Will the 3.4 realistically turn 40’s ?
Stock transmission and transfer be up to the big meats?
IFS out for straight axle(60)
Matching rear 60
Exo cage for cab
Doubler case
??????
Will the 3.4 realistically turn 40’s ?
Stock transmission and transfer be up to the big meats?
IFS out for straight axle(60)
Matching rear 60
Exo cage for cab
Doubler case
??????
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See for yourself:
www.pirate4x4.com
www.pirate4x4.com
www.pirate4x4.com
That was just in the first few pages...
'97 4Runner on 05+ Dana 60 & 14 Bolt
97' 4Runner Build Wontons
1 Ton 4Runner
That was just in the first few pages...
- Thread starter
- #57
I was a bit intimidated, but that last one is killing my desire. Serious skill on that one I don’t have. A boy’s gotta dream...See for yourself:
'97 4Runner on 05+ Dana 60 & 14 Bolt
97' 4Runner Build Wontons
1 Ton 4Runner
That was just in the first few pages...
Go light weight over Tons. The rocks are the only place you can’t build strong enough but only if you hit the skinny pedal too much. A light buggy on tons is awesome but skill and smaller axles fit the budget and can be made to work with what you can scrounge. Sure, you can go all out but you can wheel the hell out of an XJ and have fun while someone else is installing the perfect 3 link suspension. Dollars per smile counts. Kids don’t care about an LS or overdrive, they remember the scenery, the crawdads and dads smile. They couldn’t care less about hanging off a rock ledge on fordyce but you can bet they remember fondly dad letting them throw it in stupid low and drive down the trail into a deep puddle.
- Thread starter
- #59
I was looking to use the engine transmission and transfer from the 4Runner on this build. I had a 3.4/5 speed in my old T100 and it left me with a good impression. The desire for tons is for something I don’t have to worry about. So @WILLD420 what do you recommend in terms of a build? At this point I’m really open to any build plan. That bring said, my 40 is built for the majority of trails out there. The 4R would be built so I don’t worry about potential damage the remainder of the trails might dish out.
I think you should go ride with someone in a buggy first. Get a feel for what you like and don't. Narrow fits in between trees but it falls over easier. Tall goes through mud and deep snow but it increases pucker factor. Long wheelbases climb ledges, short ones are more manueverable. No body panels or windows sucks in a hail or snow storm.
How do these fit into your goals?
A 3500 lb rig with 195 HP is a good start. Maybe a truggy style 4runner?
3.4, dual cases, gm metric 9.5 semi float rear and a good Dana 44 front on 37's will go a lot of places. You could use Toy axles too. 38's are doable but you are playing dangerously without top shelf axle shafts.
How do these fit into your goals?
A 3500 lb rig with 195 HP is a good start. Maybe a truggy style 4runner?
3.4, dual cases, gm metric 9.5 semi float rear and a good Dana 44 front on 37's will go a lot of places. You could use Toy axles too. 38's are doable but you are playing dangerously without top shelf axle shafts.
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