This really bugs me...slow electric windows !!! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter cme4lyt
- Start date
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The runs are dirt simple to replace. If you can get your door panel off its just 2 more bolts to remove the glass. When the glass is out you just pull the old runs out starting at the bottom of the door then press the new ones in...
Really easy.
Id be down for a window race lol. Its unusually mild out so the weather is on my side.
D
Really easy.
Id be down for a window race lol. Its unusually mild out so the weather is on my side.
D
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If you're only replacing the runs and not digging into the door it can be a pretty quick job IIRC. Put the window all the way down, pull out the old run and slide in the new. A long skinny screw driver or plastic ruler can help you seat them inside the door (they don't extend a whole lot into the door).
So...you don't have to remove the door panel? Just easier if you do?
IMO you might as well take the whole thing apart and clean and lube the regulator 1
job
Yes, you need to take the panel off.
It would make it easier without the window in there as well. Take the window out and clean the edges, mine were full of crap and I didnt want to transfer it onto the new runs...
D
It would make it easier without the window in there as well. Take the window out and clean the edges, mine were full of crap and I didnt want to transfer it onto the new runs...
D
Here's my story:
3 years ago thought it was simply the motor. Replaced it with a reman from autozone (or similar) for about $60. No better.
Last year, replace regulator thinking that must be problem. Pulled run at same time to clean out (did not replace). No better.
So other than replacing runs, the only thing left is the switch. So today I popped it out to take a look and clean it with contact cleaner. I was surprised to see how much this needed attention but even more surprised it has been working at all from the looks of it...
I'll report back after cleaning it up and reinstalling it.
3 years ago thought it was simply the motor. Replaced it with a reman from autozone (or similar) for about $60. No better.
Last year, replace regulator thinking that must be problem. Pulled run at same time to clean out (did not replace). No better.
So other than replacing runs, the only thing left is the switch. So today I popped it out to take a look and clean it with contact cleaner. I was surprised to see how much this needed attention but even more surprised it has been working at all from the looks of it...
I'll report back after cleaning it up and reinstalling it.
I've found that silicon spray lubricant works in the rubber window runners and a mixture of WD40 and lithium grease works for the metal rails and gear to help speed things up.
I just hate the windows rattling if they are partialy down.
I just hate the windows rattling if they are partialy down.
I have read this entire thread, as well as a couple or three others. Wow, do I sure wish there was a reasonable and affordable way to retrofit to manual windows and be done with this mess.
Guys I'm puzzled. There doesn't seem to be any consensus on a fix.
Motor, switch, rails, rubber, pam, prayer, etc., etc. .... I read this whole thread and was left with more questions than answers.
Someone needs to provide a detailed before after real, long-term fix. I can see that certainly cleaning and greasing channels and the motor will certainly have "some" benefit, but it appears there's an equal number of people saying it helped to those that say it didn't do squat. I'm real interested in the switch fix. Some say "this is it, do it", but again - no consensus, no detailed before and after or long-term results.
I have a '96 with the same screwy behavior. Some days it's fast, other days slow as can be. I presume it's temp/humidity and maybe a little electrical flow related (which may tie into our switch issue).
I'm optimistic on the switch service. As a side hobby I restore pinball machines and there's contacts involved that oxidize and wear, causing similar behaviors. I'll do my thing, give it a go and take good pics, and report on the results and let you know what I find. In the meantime if someone can REALLY provide a long-term solution that worked ... and provide more than a one sentence description of what they did, I'm sure "The Club" would be greatly appreciative.
Regards,
Brian
"Gr84Mud"
Motor, switch, rails, rubber, pam, prayer, etc., etc. .... I read this whole thread and was left with more questions than answers.
Someone needs to provide a detailed before after real, long-term fix. I can see that certainly cleaning and greasing channels and the motor will certainly have "some" benefit, but it appears there's an equal number of people saying it helped to those that say it didn't do squat. I'm real interested in the switch fix. Some say "this is it, do it", but again - no consensus, no detailed before and after or long-term results.
I have a '96 with the same screwy behavior. Some days it's fast, other days slow as can be. I presume it's temp/humidity and maybe a little electrical flow related (which may tie into our switch issue).
I'm optimistic on the switch service. As a side hobby I restore pinball machines and there's contacts involved that oxidize and wear, causing similar behaviors. I'll do my thing, give it a go and take good pics, and report on the results and let you know what I find. In the meantime if someone can REALLY provide a long-term solution that worked ... and provide more than a one sentence description of what they did, I'm sure "The Club" would be greatly appreciative.
Regards,
Brian
"Gr84Mud"
I cleaned my switches (pictured above) with contact cleaner, reassembled and reinstalled. No better.
The contacts/points were somewhat pitted so I'm taking it apart again to take some emery cloth to them to see if that helps.
If not, my next step will be to pull the runs and see how quickly the window goes up without them in at all. Guess that might help determine if they are the cause. If not, I guess I'l have to go for a new switch.
The contacts/points were somewhat pitted so I'm taking it apart again to take some emery cloth to them to see if that helps.
If not, my next step will be to pull the runs and see how quickly the window goes up without them in at all. Guess that might help determine if they are the cause. If not, I guess I'l have to go for a new switch.
My runs were worn the most on the b pillar side of the window. The runs were rough and the rubber was worn where the edge of the window makes contact with the run.
Of course my major problem was the broken c clip in the actual regulator. Process of elimination man. With new runs and reg's from a 97 my windows show significant improvement.
D
Of course my major problem was the broken c clip in the actual regulator. Process of elimination man. With new runs and reg's from a 97 my windows show significant improvement.
D
I think the issue is that trucks see very different sets of exposure to the environments. There is a heck of a difference between a truck in a mild climate with harsh winters and a truck that has hot summers with mild winters and almost no precipitation. Owners use their AC and windows/sunroof in very different combinations to cope with the differing environments. This leads to different outcomes with runs, switches, lift mechanisms, and motors.
So not so surprising there are big differences perhaps.
The thing that does surprise me is not having more negative experiences with the use of other run lubricants than silicone sprays. Anything that might attarct and hold dust seems likely to lead to negative outcomes based on my experience, but it seems to work for some.
I took apart my driver's switch set and it was quite dirty, if not choked with dirt. I cleaned every contact. I too would say it didn't solve the problem, but I would say it's part of the equation.
I know my vehicle was previously a beach vehicle down in North Carolina and when you use the windows you can hear the crud in them. I'm going for cleaning the channels and linkages next, then trying a single replacement as someone previously mentioned.
But for what it's worth, the switches do need cleaning on these things. It's definitely part of the problem. I took detailed step-by-step photos yesterday ... I'll post them ASAP for anyone interested in doing switch overhauls.
Brian
"Gr84Mud"
sandcruiser
....back in the saddle again....
based on this thread and others, the following things can cause issues with the 80 electric windows (followed by what I see as the 'best' fix)
* dirty/dry lube on the window lift mechanism (remove door panel, clean, lube)
* old rubber on the channel (replace rubber and/orsilicone spray )
* oxidized/pitted switch contacts (emery cloth, spray cleaner on master switch, or just replace switches completely)
* old motor/bad brushes (Autozone $54 motor, or maybe clean up/bend brushes for better contact as short-term solution)
* old/bad wiring at non-driver window switches (add 2 relays @ offending door)
* old/bad/small/crimped wiring @ master switch (open door panel, replace wiring)
* tight rivets on lift mechanism ("tap" on the rivets to dislodge them, clean/lube )
* Baaad juju (go wheeling more. dent doors. break window. cut doors down to half-doors. problem solved)
Most of the repairs have threads dedicated to them. If someone wants to find those threads and post 'em or PM me, I'll edit them into links, but for now I think I'm going to go out and work on fixing some junk on my junk instead.
* dirty/dry lube on the window lift mechanism (remove door panel, clean, lube)
* old rubber on the channel (replace rubber and/orsilicone spray )
* oxidized/pitted switch contacts (emery cloth, spray cleaner on master switch, or just replace switches completely)
* old motor/bad brushes (Autozone $54 motor, or maybe clean up/bend brushes for better contact as short-term solution)
* old/bad wiring at non-driver window switches (add 2 relays @ offending door)
* old/bad/small/crimped wiring @ master switch (open door panel, replace wiring)
* tight rivets on lift mechanism ("tap" on the rivets to dislodge them, clean/lube )
* Baaad juju (go wheeling more. dent doors. break window. cut doors down to half-doors. problem solved)
Most of the repairs have threads dedicated to them. If someone wants to find those threads and post 'em or PM me, I'll edit them into links, but for now I think I'm going to go out and work on fixing some junk on my junk instead.
Nice summary Sandcruiser, thanks!
I'm working on my switch overhaul photo step-by-step and will post it shortly (I know, it's not rocket science, but it never hurts to have photos to fall back on...).
Brian
treerootCO
Where are my keys?!
I cleaned the contacts when I did the auto up window mod. One of the best, if not the best, 80 mods in my opinion. Cleaning contacts did nothing....
The regulator was broken and is only available as an assembly. At $95.00 it gave me a good chance to see what a good one is supposed to be like. There is no play between any of the pivot points and the spring is 20times stronger on the new one. If you can source a new window spring, hammer the rivets of all the pivots, and assemble with clean tracks, I would guess that is all that is required to make these new again.
The motor and brushes were really dirty so that got taken apart and cleaned. I polished up the armature with a red 3M scotch bright pad and reassembled. The only grease I could find that shouldn't get hard when cold was some Mobil 1 syn so I threw that in. The brushes looked fine and still had some life left in them.
I cleaned the window tracks and relubed them with silicone. I may replace them next.
Window is good but slow on a cold day.
Before:
After:
Part number = 69802-60010 approx $95
The regulator was broken and is only available as an assembly. At $95.00 it gave me a good chance to see what a good one is supposed to be like. There is no play between any of the pivot points and the spring is 20times stronger on the new one. If you can source a new window spring, hammer the rivets of all the pivots, and assemble with clean tracks, I would guess that is all that is required to make these new again.
The motor and brushes were really dirty so that got taken apart and cleaned. I polished up the armature with a red 3M scotch bright pad and reassembled. The only grease I could find that shouldn't get hard when cold was some Mobil 1 syn so I threw that in. The brushes looked fine and still had some life left in them.
I cleaned the window tracks and relubed them with silicone. I may replace them next.
Window is good but slow on a cold day.
Before:
After:
Part number = 69802-60010 approx $95
WD-40
I put the straw on the spray nozzle of a bottle of WD-40 and sprayed a little in the channels on the front two windows of my 97' tonight and let it run down. I ran the windows up and down a couple times and they are faster now and there seems to be a lot less stress on the motor. I also did the sunroof and the rear sliders.
Thinking I probably did something stupid and as an after thought, I went ahead and googled, "WD-40 and rubber" to see just how stupid I was and how the WD-40 would probably crack the rubber. To my surprise, WD-40 works great on softening rubber. There was some sight of 1,000,000 uses for WD-40. They say it's good for softening O-rings. I think I saw it was good for tire cleaner as well.
If someone else suggested this, I am sorry for the repeat post and the theft. I did a skim and didn't see it. It may collect dust but maybe it'll soften the rubber and then I'll clean the excess dirt and crap off later.
Official Site For WD-40, the Versatile Product With Over 2000 Uses! says:
"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-4"
Next time I'll fix something with Duct Tape and tell you all about it.
I put the straw on the spray nozzle of a bottle of WD-40 and sprayed a little in the channels on the front two windows of my 97' tonight and let it run down. I ran the windows up and down a couple times and they are faster now and there seems to be a lot less stress on the motor. I also did the sunroof and the rear sliders.
Thinking I probably did something stupid and as an after thought, I went ahead and googled, "WD-40 and rubber" to see just how stupid I was and how the WD-40 would probably crack the rubber. To my surprise, WD-40 works great on softening rubber. There was some sight of 1,000,000 uses for WD-40. They say it's good for softening O-rings. I think I saw it was good for tire cleaner as well.
If someone else suggested this, I am sorry for the repeat post and the theft. I did a skim and didn't see it. It may collect dust but maybe it'll soften the rubber and then I'll clean the excess dirt and crap off later.
Official Site For WD-40, the Versatile Product With Over 2000 Uses! says:
"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-4"
Next time I'll fix something with Duct Tape and tell you all about it.
