Third front diff broken.

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Thanks...since I am running 33's with the OME lift I will leave well enough alone...I too like to rail it around corners :)
 
"I think if you have a locker and use it appropriately the changes of the diff breaking is largely reduced since you don't get the sudden shock load situation.

I broke a front axle and diff under exactly the same conditions. The front was open, one wheel lifted, heavy throttle, heavy truck, tire got traction and bang, it was over.

I think due to the independent part of the IFS system, the one tire lifting and then getting traction happens pretty easy, that is why we see it a lot more breakage on them. If you talk to 4Runner guys, they will break CV shafts when the same thing happens.

My suggestion is stick a ARB in it and use it when you need the traction."


Ok, so my question is this. How would the TRAC system affect the front end traction? Will it help reduce this shock load which can destroy the front end?

Cristo, was the truck you were driving an LX470 also when you destroyed the front end and broke an axle?

And breaking CV's is way better than breaking the diff. Easy/cheap trail fix there.
 
calamaridog said:
"I think if you have a locker and use it appropriately the changes of the diff breaking is largely reduced since you don't get the sudden shock load situation.

I broke a front axle and diff under exactly the same conditions. The front was open, one wheel lifted, heavy throttle, heavy truck, tire got traction and bang, it was over.

I think due to the independent part of the IFS system, the one tire lifting and then getting traction happens pretty easy, that is why we see it a lot more breakage on them. If you talk to 4Runner guys, they will break CV shafts when the same thing happens.

My suggestion is stick a ARB in it and use it when you need the traction."


Ok, so my question is this. How would the TRAC system affect the front end traction? Will it help reduce this shock load which can destroy the front end?

Cristo, was the truck you were driving an LX470 also when you destroyed the front end and broke an axle?

And breaking CV's is way better than breaking the diff. Easy/cheap trail fix there.

Slee didn't have TRAC. It was a '99.
TRAC will descrease breakage chance IF used correctly. If you climb and keep steady throttle then it will control spinning. If you keep the trottle pegged the system will let spin occur (for in the mud, etc) and breakge could occur.
 
Third Differential Replaced under Warranty

Ok,

I've got to tell you guys that the Lexus folks are just awesome. They have replaced my third front differential under warranty.

It's not that they shouldn't, but I didn't have to be an a****** to get it done. They just did it.

Granted, they asked about the warped running boards, and the messed up rear bumper. I told them that the rear bumper was because I was winching the truck over a half mile out of the middle of the forest, and at times there was no driver. Yes, I did let the winch down on a helpless tree and got a dent. But I had to let the Warn 12K cool down. That winch did it's job with me on the harness up front with a driver that couldn't drive as I yelled at him to keep it in N and apply brakes on the small declines. Trust me, there were not many till we crested the hill at 9700'. My property is at 8600'. The way down was a piece of cake with RWD only. Going up with the KKKKKCCCCCSSSSSKKKKKLUNK!!!! Just gave me the chills. Keeping it in N at 1/4 mph somehow alowed a little relief. Crazy night, but when Slee completes the rock sliders for my truck, I will install ARB's front and rear, Slee's sliders and rear bumper.

Hopefully these mods will allow my wife to be civilized taking the kids to school and me safe up in them there hills.

George
 
calamaridog said:
George,

So what about running the Land Cruiser t-bars instead of the LX470 ones to help support the bumper and winch?

No know that's a no-no. Stock T-bars with ARB and winch = trouble
 
It's not just stock T-bars... its stock T-bars plus AHC suspension. The AHC suspension supports some of the weight of the vehicle.
 
hoser said:
It's not just stock T-bars... its stock T-bars plus AHC suspension. The AHC suspension supports some of the weight of the vehicle.

Ah? See....I no-no.
The difference in ride height would be undetectable IMO.
 
I thought the point was the stock LC t-bars are thicker than the LX470 t-bars. Isn't that the point? Beef up the front of the LX470 and help support the bumper and winch by upgrading to the LC t-bars?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't this the preferred method if running a winch and bumper on the LX470?

Anyways, George, I'll cut you a killer deal on mine when I swap them out soon if you are interested.
 
Problem on the LX470 is that if you change the front T-Bar you loose the ride adj height. I'll just wait till it goes out and replace the whole suspension with the EMU stuff.

All this TRAC talk makes me want to get a newer model.

Thanks,

George
 
5151broadway said:
Problem on the LX470 is that if you change the front T-Bar you loose the ride adj height. I'll just wait till it goes out and replace the whole suspension with the EMU stuff.

All this TRAC talk makes me want to get a newer model.

Thanks,

George

If your gonna lock don't worry about TRAC at this point. The one great benefit I find on the trails here in AZ is you can lock the rear and let TRAC power the front. This gives you full turning capablility and added traction on the bad stuff, AND without added risk of a locked front. I rarely lock my front as TRAC works great.
 
5151broadway said:
Problem on the LX470 is that if you change the front T-Bar you loose the ride adj height.

That is not true. It all depends on what you replace it with and how you set up the sensors. You can still have AHC with different torsion bars.

We just two LX470's with Sahara bumpers and winches. In both cases we did not have to change the suspension. The truck leveled out and drove fine. We used 9000 and 9500 winches. One truck got a roof rack, the other rear bumper and sliders.
 
Christo--when adjusting the lift to 2.5", should all the adjustments be made to the AHC sensors or should it be a combination of AHC sensor and torsion bar adjustment?
 
Christo,

what's your opinion on the TRAC and ARB combo vs. just a dual ARB setup? How much/is there a "significant" advantage with TRAC and lockers? Meaning enough significance for me to purchase a '99 vs a 2000+.

My philosophy is that if there isn't that much of a difference then I could save some coin and buy a 99. If it is worth it, then I would try to buy an 03-04.
 
ChuckB said:
Christo,

what's your opinion on the TRAC and ARB combo vs. just a dual ARB setup? How much/is there a "significant" advantage with TRAC and lockers? Meaning enough significance for me to purchase a '99 vs a 2000+.

My philosophy is that if there isn't that much of a difference then I could save some coin and buy a 99. If it is worth it, then I would try to buy an 03-04.

I bet Christo will answer though it's hard to answer unless you're more specific about what surface-type your speaking. I'll give an example:

In 2 weeks I'm riding a trail in AZ that has been closed for years (and still is). We finally got a permit after years of trying and are going. 10 truck max per permit. On this trail there are 6 insanly steep and narrow and very dangerous switchbacks to climb. Most take straps on a few for safety. Most will require a rear locker for sure. When your rear is locked your center is too (on a '99). This will make it hard to turn and increase the radius up these. Because of this and the danger, we're bringing the 100. Why? I can lock the rear for traction, have the center unlocked for turning ability, and IF I need more traction up front while climbing, I have TRAC.

In some situations TRAC-only is best. In some, lockers are best. In some, a combo is best. The bottom line is that with a TRAC-LOCKER combo you have all kinds of options depending on conditions. I've wheeled so long this way I can see this and run into these scenarios. My 80 is limited in this area whereas the 100 is not. You can add lockers...you can't add TRAC.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
I bet Christo will answer though it's hard to answer unless you're more specific about what surface-type your speaking. I'll give an example:

In 2 weeks I'm riding a trail in AZ that has been closed for years (and still is). We finally got a permit after years of trying and are going. 10 truck max per permit. On this trail there are 6 insanly steep and narrow and very dangerous switchbacks to climb. Most take straps on a few for safety. Most will require a rear locker for sure. When your rear is locked your center is too (on a '99). This will make it hard to turn and increase the radius up these. Because of this and the danger, we're bringing the 100. Why? I can lock the rear for traction, have the center unlocked for turning ability, and IF I need more traction up front while climbing, I have TRAC.

In some situations TRAC-only is best. In some, lockers are best. In some, a combo is best. The bottom line is that with a TRAC-LOCKER combo you have all kinds of options depending on conditions. I've wheeled so long this way I can see this and run into these scenarios. My 80 is limited in this area whereas the 100 is not. You can add lockers...you can't add TRAC.

Here's the spec on those s-backs:

Casner Mountain Trail (switchback portion):
800' gain in under a mile!
http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=12&Z=12&X=512&Y=4833&W=2

Compare to Black Bear Pass (the bad steep and narrow section...not the whole thing):
600' gain in about 3/4 mile! Very similar though Casner Trail is loose rock vs solid rock.
http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?T=2&S=11&Z=13&X=643&Y=10501&W=2&qs=|Silverton|Colorado|

I'll be scared to death on this run like I was Black Bear. Gotta go though. :)
 
hoser said:
Christo--when adjusting the lift to 2.5", should all the adjustments be made to the AHC sensors or should it be a combination of AHC sensor and torsion bar adjustment?

When replacing the torsion bars and rear springs on the lx470 you need to reset the lowest setting. What we did is mark the sensors when the truck was on it's lowest setting, then install the new torsion bars and springs. Adjusting the torsion bars so we have a 1/2" rake or so. Then reset the sensors to the marked settings for this new "lowest" mode.
 
ChuckB said:
Christo,

what's your opinion on the TRAC and ARB combo vs. just a dual ARB setup? How much/is there a "significant" advantage with TRAC and lockers? Meaning enough significance for me to purchase a '99 vs a 2000+.

My philosophy is that if there isn't that much of a difference then I could save some coin and buy a 99. If it is worth it, then I would try to buy an 03-04.

My truck does not go off-road so I have not tried the TRAC off road :D

However I have tried it in deep snow and it works, but when you get a little out of control the stability control shuts the gas down. Not fun. Wish I could turn it off.

Bottom line, with all the front diffs we see that break, I would go ARB on the front and not be afraid to use it.
 
ShottsUZJ100 When your rear is locked your center is too (on a '99). This will make it hard to turn and increase the radius up these. [/QUOTE said:
Why would the turning radius be that much more if this is a loose traction surface? The wheels will just spin. I can see not wanting the front locker on, but I would still lock the center. What if both your rear tires start spinning? The front is not going to pull.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Why would the turning radius be that much more if this is a loose traction surface? The wheels will just spin. I can see not wanting the front locker on, but I would still lock the center. What if both your rear tires start spinning? The front is not going to pull.

I hear ya. It'll depend on road surface as to what you use and how. I can just speak from experience with this setup.

Think of going down Black Bear. No matter how hard you try, the same rig with a locked center goes much wider than an unlocked center. I backed only once going down BBear.
The same has happened going uphill here in various places. You can try all you want center locked (let along also locking the front) and you can't turn as tight as unlocked.
Doing these switchbacks, the one rear inside wheel will want to lift. Locking the rear will allow for traction on the outside and planted wheel. Meanwhile, the unlocked front is guiding you. I can't imagine taking my 80 up here espeically locked front. You can't turn. In the 100, IF I need more traction then I can lock the center and TRAC the front whereas a locked front = hard to turn.
 

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