Thinking OUT LOUD!?

[chicago]

Getting pieces and parts together to do a Vortec swap to 4L60E to NP203 to toy split case.
The adapters are quite expensive to achieve this.
I was wondering if it might be better/ easier to get a center diff rear axel, and run an NP205 in lieu of the toy split case?
Beef up the axel, make the back half swap easier....

What do you all think?
Am I over simplifying this?
What am I missing?

Chicago

 

[Mace]

you priced the 203/205 adapter yet?

 

[chicago]

Yeah... ive found 400 up to 800 just for the adapter...

Chicago

 

[freds40]

Don't know the cost of the 203/split adapter but my guess is this would be the cheaper option.

With the 203/205, my adapter of choice is the solid 1 piece unit rom offroad design. The version they sell that clocks the 205 flat is really as high as you need to go as there is no point in clocking the 205 higher than the 203. There adapter is just shy of $800.

Then you also have the cost of building or buying a rear axle.

If your plan is to swap to 1 tons then the 203/205 is the way to go but if this will remain a comfortable trail rig then I say 203/split or even Toy Box/spit.

 

[brokenparts]

I'm currently swapping over from my toybox/fj axles to 203/205 and d60/d70 stuff... IF you even have visions of 1 tons in the future, just do it now and be done with it. I dont think the cost is significantly more if you are planning a vortec and 4l60e anyway... you just need to be patient waiting for the right parts to come along. My swap will almost pay for it self selling my old toy junk. Just my 2 cents though.

I went with NWF fab because I liked the clock-ability of it. I don't know how everything is going to "fit" yet and having the ability to move it around a bit will be nice.

 

[Mace]

I just don't see the savings with the 205 vs a split tcase Amigo.

Besides, you concerned about snapping a rear axle?

 

[ntsqd]

For a rig that will see significant hwy use the split-case has one serious detraction, a bunch of gears and bearings that the power must flow thru. How much this affects fuel economy I've no idea, but it can't not have a negative effect.

I'm leaning towards a centered diff for this reason and for the reason that I can get a lower low range ratio as part of the deal (NP241), i.e. no extra cost of low range gears or a doubler. I'd dearly love to have a doubler in this rig, but the reality is that I'd rarely use it.

Were I going to put in a doubler I would be looking for one that was a planetary as their parasitic losses are considerably less than a spur gear arrangement.

 

[chicago]

I wasnt necessarily PLANNING on beefing the axels, much less swapping in a whole rear end, but it does have some advantages. What I DO like about the LC axels is the ability to swap the diffs in an emergency.
More than anything, what attracted me to eliminating the 19 spline was the (theoretic) simplification of the swap, at least the back half. Seems that the LC 19 spline does not have a WHOLE lot of gearing options that it will mate to.
The adapter to mate the NP203 to the 19 spl. is 500-600. Then the adapter to mate the 4l60E to the 203...Ive heard that a th400/ TH350 adapter will achieve this and can be had pretty cheap.
More than anything I guess that I was trying to find out if anyone thought that the center diff route would be a bit easier over maintaining the stock gear. Now that I say that and consider the question...I guess its pretty self explanitory and I feel quite stupid.
Not really all that worried about snapping axels...Im pretty wimpy on my gear when Im wheelin, in that...I dont like skinny pedal too much.

Thanks for the input here gents...
I tend to over think this stuff sometimes.

Chicago

 

[brokenparts]

wait till you have the vortec in there... you'll love your skinny pedal.

 

[Mace]

and with the auto, a 203/splittcase is more than enough gearing..

You need the Ford 203 pattern drilled into the Chevy case. Not tough to do yourself at all.
Sixty went round and round on what the cheapest setup was.

I thought it included a 208 adapter for some reason.

 

[ntsqd]

A GM 208 adapter would have the same circular bolt pattern as the Ford 203 tc. Were it me, I'd be looking for a housing or adapter for the backside of the 208 rather than messing with 300 lbs worth of 203 stuff. Lighter and 2.6:1 vs. ~2:1 low range.

 

[Mace]

A GM 208 adapter would have the same circular bolt pattern as the Ford 203 tc. Were it me, I'd be looking for a housing or adapter for the backside of the 208 rather than messing with 300 lbs worth of 203 stuff. Lighter and 2.6:1 vs. ~2:1 low range.

Cost starts becoming an issue then. People have used the gear reduction portion of a 208 with good results, but it gets expensive quick.

The most cost effective conversion is the 203. It is heavy, but they are dirt cheap and strong as an ox..

 

[chicago]

Yeah...
I picked my 203 for a 100 bucks. Cant really beat that price. Havent seperated it yet though. It seems that the weight will MUCH less when the chain drive half is off.
One of the reasons that I WANT the gear reduction is so I wont HAVE to use the skinny. Im thinking Im gonna find a whole new appreciaton for driving my crusier once the Vortec is in though.
MOAB here I come!!!!
Ill probably stick with the original game plan with the 19 spline.
Didnt want to waste anyones time with a nonsense thread, but I was seriously thinking that it might have been a worth while option overall.

BTW, if anyone has any misc. vortec peices hangin around, shoot me a PM. I have a few missing items that I want to find BEFORE I start really looking for a tranny. Its an 01, 5.3L.

Thanks all,

Chicago

 

[ntsqd]

I don't see weighing the options and asking for opinions before committing to a path as a waste of time, particularly if that path requires a significant cash outlay.

The 203 hi/lo lump will weigh less once the chain drive section is removed, though it is still not what I would call "light". That is the biggest freaking Morse chain that I've ever seen!

I have a free 208 sitting in my driveway. Unfortunately for me it is a TH400 application so it won't work behind a my planned 700R4 or a TH350. I've wondered about building a case and adapting the planetary in it to doubler use. At the present that would be Special Project No. 647.......... So it sits.........

 

[Mace]

NT is absolutely correct.
No reason to appologize for askin a question.

Can't think of any companies that use the 208 planetary as a reduction box. I think most have used the 241. Does not mean it can't be done, just that I can't rememebr anyone that has.

All things considered, I really like the Mini reduction boxes..

 

[brokenparts]

My toybox/splitcase has worked great and I'd suggest it to anyone. However, at some point (especially with a v8 in front of it) you have realistic on what it can handle. That's the reason why I'm moving to a th400 203/205 and 1 ton axles with the motor I'm building. I dont want it in the back of my mind anymore than I'm going to break my junk... not to say that I cant break that set up, it'll just be a lot harder to do.

 

[wagon4wd]

I wasnt necessarily PLANNING on beefing the axels, much less swapping in a whole rear end, but it does have some advantages. What I DO like about the LC axels is the ability to swap the diffs in an emergency.

If the axle is big enough, you're probably not going to have an emergency requiring swapping the diff.

I'm leaning towards a centered diff for this reason and for the reason that I can get a lower low range ratio as part of the deal (NP241), i.e. no extra cost of low range gears or a doubler. I'd dearly love to have a doubler in this rig, but the reality is that I'd rarely use it.

If it's the 241 I'm thinking of, the case itself (unless you get a good deal) is pretty pricey, and the drop's the wrong side for most things landcruiser. 4:1 is a bit hard to beat, though, and something tells me you have something bigger planned for the front anyways.

 

[Hank]

For double help: Jed's Machining - off road, doublers, custom cnc machining, 203, 205 - Home Jed helped me through quite a few wierd scenarios. Cost effective and a very knowledgable gentlman.

I'd like more gear up top. I'm happy with my highway RPMs so I'd like to leave the axle gears alone and go with a toybox, doubler, etc. I'm not ready to ditch my I6 yet though. It's just getting broken in.

 

[ntsqd]

If it's the 241 I'm thinking of, the case itself (unless you get a good deal) is pretty pricey, and the drop's the wrong side for most things landcruiser. 4:1 is a bit hard to beat, though, and something tells me you have something bigger planned for the front anyways.

They're not outrageously priced, mostly because crawler folk don't want chain driven t-cases. In the GM stuff the Live Axle applications are pass (right) side drop. It's the IFS that has the left side drop ala Fords.

 

[wagon4wd]

They're not outrageously priced, mostly because crawler folk don't want chain driven t-cases. In the GM stuff the Live Axle applications are pass (right) side drop. It's the IFS that has the left side drop ala Fords.

Hm. If you're finding 241ORs at a price that you think isn't outrageous, PM me. They seem to go for a mint where I've been looking, though certainly lots cheaper than orion/atlas/etc. That was the one I was thinking of, and AFAIK, all of its applications are ford side drop.