Things to do while the head is off? (1 Viewer)

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RustyNailJustin

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I took the Cylinder head off my 76 2F cause it has a burnt valve from a crack in the exhust manifold. The motor only has 48,500 miles and there is not much for deposits on top of the pistons but there is some carbon. Whats the best way to clean off the carbon without F ing somthing up. Is it ok to use brake cleaner and a wire brush? What do you guys recomend I do to clean things up while the head is at the machine shop? Seem like I should know this sort of stuff but my internal engine work experence is fairly limited. THanks.
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I scrape the tops of the pistons and use WD 40 as a lube. Use a good quality wire brush that wont lose many wires. Make sure you blow out the cylinders real well. I usually sand the top of the block with scotch brite pads then wipe it all down with wd 40 after blowing it all off.
 
WD-40... hum good idea did not think of that.
 
Now would be a good time to rebuild your carb if it needs it
 
Romer said:
Now would be a good time to rebuild your carb if it needs it

Carb is freshly rebulit. Thanks.
 
Is there a gasket kit that comes with all the gaskets necessary to put this thing back together or do I gotta buy them all seperate? Head,valve cover,thermostat housing,carb.
 
USFSIHC said:
Is there a gasket kit that comes with all the gaskets necessary to put this thing back together or do I gotta buy them all seperate? Head,valve cover,thermostat housing,carb.

Yes, there are complete gasket sets for head rebuilds and they are WAY cheaper then purchasing individual gaskets. I'm not sure if there's an OEM set, though.
 
Trevor said:
Yes, there are complete gasket sets for head rebuilds and they are WAY cheaper then purchasing individual gaskets. I'm not sure if there's an OEM set, though.

I think in the "OEM" world it's called the 'valve grind' gasket set...

Nick
 
you should coat everything in oil like 30w over the top of the block, this help to stop rust and pitting when the head is off. the oil in the cylinder dose no harm.
 
You planning on doing anything radical to the head?
 
NAPA calls the gasket set a "head set". Much better option than OEM; just as good and aout 1/2 as much. COnsider buying a ful rebuild gasket kit. You will need tham all eventually and can save a bunch all at once.
 
Not doing any thing other than a grind and new valves.

Good call on the oil pretty dry out west here but still a good idea.
 
i have always used brillo pads..........with some denatured alky to clean things up! dennaured alky wont hurt stuff and a brillo pad wont dig in too much or leave anything behind..also when denatured alky evaporates it pulls junk out with it!
 
USFSIHC said:
Not doing any thing other than a grind and new valves.

Good call on the oil pretty dry out west here but still a good idea.
Good man, there is no reason to do any fancy valve work on a cruiser.
 
USFSIHC said:
Not doing any thing other than a grind and new valves.

Good call on the oil pretty dry out west here but still a good idea.
/
where out west are you? I am So Cal if you need a hand putting it back together
 
Hey thanks for the offer! But I am in Southern Oregon 600 miles from ya.
 
Had a "Bowl Job" done on my head when it was in the shop. Opened up the area just above the valves, supposed to help horswpower & stuff. Also ported/polished the head and intake manifold. Then re-tapped all the head studs to 12mm. New Toyota studs, washers, bolts.

Greg Dyche
A Helluva Pig
One normal 40
 
Block work

The normal way to clean any machined parts is with an angled die grinder and a scotchbrite pad. Some call the pads biscuits, about 2" in diameter and come in different grits. There is a biscuit adaptor that fits the die grinder and the bicuits screw into the adaptor. You can get a perfect polish finish.

I would use some rags to cover the cylinders and polish the head surface area. Also run a tap down all the cylinder head bolt holes and blow out with compressed air. The clean threads will make sure that your head torque comes out right and you won't be doing it over again.
 
Can't you use Chevy valves with minimal conversion?

There are a TON of good quality, but cheap alternatives going this route....

If true (I think it is anyway) I wish I knew about it before I built my 1.5 F :rolleyes:

Got my stainless valves from one of the aftermarket places. I forget which now, but I have to wonder if they were actually Chevy valves....
 

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