Theseus build

[Sweatyforehead]

Its still the same Land Cruiser! Right?
Making this thread because I cant find my old one and this way is easier to make a recap on work done on this HJ60 Im now calling Theseus

1987 Diesel HJ60
Currently sitting happy at 693,000km
-stock gearing (4.56)
-rebuilt birfields
-33x12.50R15 Goodyear Duratracs
-TKO Diesel added every 10,000km
-valves adjusted at 665,0000km back to spec
-radiator re-cored
-3/4 FJ60 frame spliced into original frame at transmission crossmember
-OME Heavy springs all around, except in the rear where one leaf was removed for comfort
-500watt amplifier with dual MTX subwoofers
-auxiliary 12v marine deep cycle for subs/fridge
-25watt Canadian tire solar panel for aux battery
-all new tie rod links
-super sweet door lighting
-3" Straightpipe with Thrush (kinda like a flowmaster 40 series) Exhaust
-assorted body damage from being in spaces no 60 should be
-Custom tube bumper
-Custom tube rock sliders
-Some new body panels
-Snorkel

- Rebuilt engine with 0.50 overbore pistons and new bearings

Since Ive started studying Marine Engineering in September 2016 this is how I've put it away for long term storage.

I am currently in my second year at school and as luck would have it, we had a course for rebuilding 6 cylinder diesels. Naturally I got excited about bringing my tired 2H into the program. I talked with our chief instructor and got the go ahead so long as I cover any machining, parts or assorted costs with the rebuild.
I sourced the whole rebuild kit from John @Raddcruisers who was able to provide me with some component upgrades (Alfin Pistons, Forged Pre-Combustion Chambers, aftermarket bearings, seals and gaskets from Diesel Power Products as well as very essential information from his experience working with and servicing the 2H.
A year prior to the beginning of the Diesel Engine Maintenance course I took out the engine and stripped the block and head down and had it shipped to the campus where it would wait while I completed the first year of the program as well as 5 months of sea time aboard Bulk Cargo Self-Unloader Ships and Oil and Chemical Tankers in the Canadian Great lakes.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

At the beginning and first week of the 4 week course myself and 2 other classmates cleaned the engine of preserving oil, took measurements, inspections and checks for flatness and cracks in the block and head before sending parts out to the machinist. Parts and work done were: Surface grind on block and cylinder head, deglaze of cylinder bore, regrinding interference fit on valves, rocker arm re-face grind, camshaft bearings install, and installation of new connecting rod pin bushings.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

With most of the engine parts sent away we took what measurements of the remaining parts we had and recorded all into our notes for our final engine report.
1.5 weeks later everything came back and we were able to to our assembly and final measurements of the engine. We were pressured for time near the end so every morning we met and allocated jobs to be done so we could do the assembly smoothly.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

On the last day of the course we were finished with building the engine and were ready to run it suspended by our large hydraulic engine hoist and with 2 batteries wired in series for the 24 v system
Due to the time restraints our fuel injectors could not be tested on campus as our injector testing bench was out of commision for the course and resulted in a rough first start of the engine as the injectors were only cleaned on the surface and soaked in diesel.
You can see the first startup here
We returned the following monday and were able to bleed the air out of the fuel lines but the old injectors resulted in a bad idle.
Satisfied with completion of our project running and with no more time left in the course, We submitted our engine report assignment, boxed the engine up on a pallet and I removed the old, worn out injectors and had them sent away to be serviced with new Nippon Denso Injector Nozzles and tested.

With the engine back home I called on one of our members to help host the engine onto a stand where I did the remainder of work on the engine: Install EDIC, glow plug wiring, and installation of the freshly rebuilt injector nozzles.

As it sits now the engine is fully rebuilt and ready to go into the Landcruiser save for one.. or two additions I would like to do to the engine before getting it back on the road.
From another member I've managed to snag a Borg Warner K26 turbocharger from a BMW 335d OEM compound turbo system and Im making plans to figure out what I need to do to bring the idea of having a compound turbo, intercooled 2H Diesel into reality.

I Hope you enjoyed my post, Ill try to keep the updates frequent whenever I make progress.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Well, I got to say I am really impressed!! Way to go. J

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Really nice work Jordan!! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Way to go kid...you got those upgraded pistions I see, much stronger ring lands..

 

[cruisedeisel]

Its always good to have a friend with a piece of plywood in case of a run away. Smart. Run aways are F=ing scary.

 

[cruiserpilot]

So would be nice to know where you got all the engine parts from? Who was your source?
All in one place or did you have to shop around?
Where did you get the injector work done?

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Back when I was working in my garage we rebuilt a 2H, I think we used Alphin pistons and the kit was very complete from engines Australia.

Think I found a thread were someone located drilled and tapped for oil skirt piston oilers..great idea if your going to run a turbo with more than 10 psi. Of course an intercooler would help greatly.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Jordan thats awesome!

 

[Sweatyforehead]

Its back! And better than ever!


Pretty big update coming soon

 

[Sweatyforehead]

So would be nice to know where you got all the engine parts from? Who was your source?
All in one place or did you have to shop around?
Where did you get the injector work done?

I got the whole rebuild kit from John @ radd cruisers, but he's since downsized his business so I would say the best source for rebuild kits for the 2H would have to be EBI Cruisers in Vancouver or whatever you can find online.
I got my injector work done at Fred Holmes Fuel Injection, costed roughly $100 per injector.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

I really need to get better at this internet posting updates... anyways, here goes!

(From left to right) Secondary turbo: Borg Warner 5326-970-0004, K26 Series shaft and compressor wheel, out of a 2009 BMW xDrive 3.0d with a M57 engine. Primary turbo: Garrett MGT2256s, GT22 shaft and compressor wheel, out of a 2013 BMW X5 e70 M.
The secondary turbo will be the main workhorse of the whole operation as it is coming with a built in exhaust bypass valve and dual charge air outlets that factor very well into a compound turbo system. I will be actuating the charge air bypass via a modified Mitsubishi EVO recirculating blow off valve.
The turbo system will be similar to the Opel Twinturbo compound system sans the charge air cooler between the turbos.

This is how it starts. flanges already waterjetted out and the secondary turbo flange made earlier in school.
I will be using 1.5" ID Schedule 40 cast steel weldable pipe as my material. Its cheap and very forgiving for my old Lincelectric 225 AC Arc welder. The rods Ill be using are 3/32 7018 electrodes at 90 amps. Im running a small gap between each joint to produce a weld with proper penetration as well as to give the manifold room to expand and contract with temperature changes.

This pipe welding stuff is hard! so much warping and quite difficult to run proper welds around the pipe without burning through or causing any slag inclusions that could chip off and fall into one of the turbos!

Beginning the initial mockup and angle finding for the larger, secondary turbo

In order to get the maximum clearance out of the secondary turbo I had to clock the housing, but due to the internal wastegate actuator being mounted off of a bracket that prevents the turbo from being clocked I had to modify the existing bracket to still be able to use the stock positioning of the internal wastegate actuator.

This is arguably my biggest bottleneck in the whole system. In order to make a exhaust flange from the back of the primary turbo feed back into my secondary turbo I had to use a 3"->1" reducer I bought from Andrew Sheret's plumbing supply.
I had a lot of doubts about my ability to weld a 3" v-band flange onto the reducer so I asked around and was able to find a local welder who was willing to TIG weld it up for me.

Due to these turbos coming from a manufacturer that prefers to have proprietary flanges on their systems I was faced with the option of tracking down and buying a exaust manifold from a BMW N63 engine and getting the mounting flange from that or the other option was to fabricate my own.
I was able to use one of our local club members metal lathe to turn one out of a 3.5" billet of steel round stock.

Did some hot work to make a piece of 1.5"ID schedule 40 piping fit the "unique" borg warner/bmw flange design...

 

[Sweatyforehead]

I ended up doing my best try at a copy of @franken60 's turbo manifold collector for my primary turbo as I was worried that when the secondary turbo's bypass valve opened it may take too much exhaust away from the primary turbo.
Plus it is a cool challenge I had the time to try out!

Time to pressure wash away years of mud and fun!

With the engine bay all cleaned up it was time to do the final upgrades to the engine by swapping out the tired 693,000km valve springs for some new OEM ones from John @ Radd Cruisers.
I rented this valve spring compressor from canadian tire and it worked pretty well!

Late night engine install with a borrowed engine hoist from one of our local club members

Time for the first test fit of the new manifold!

Hmm, looks like i have some clearance issues to solve before going further...

So this is where a minor hiccup occured. I had everything ready for a proper naturally aspirated first startup, had all the air out of the fuel lines and two fresh batteries were put in and wired up.
As part of my schools teaching we are instructed that whenever we get to the point of a first start of any machinery we must manually operate the machinery prior to startup so as to prevent any chance of catastrophic failure.
So prior to the first start I rotated the crankshaft and to my surprise I was almost able to do a complete rotation when it felt like something was binding in the engine. I stopped my work for that night and begun brainstorming what could have caused it.
By the next morning I was confident that some sort of foreign object had fallen into a cylinder during the installation of the engine and I had to remove the cylinder head to find what the problem was.

I was correct! It was a small chunk of sawed off exhaust stud that I had trimmed off in order to make clearance for my custom manifold to fit in easier.

New/old stock head gasket from EBI Cruisers

Was also a good time to make up a fitting from where the turbos will be getting their oil feed pressure as well as where I could see real-time oil pressure on my dashboard.

My original power steering pump was leaking and in some free time I was able to get a seal from Toyota shipped from california for the low price of $18

 

[Sweatyforehead]

In order to somewhat preserve the angles of the secondary turbo I broke out this nifty protractor/angle finder I picked out at a garage sale.

Hacked out and ready for adjustment!

Picked up this used intercooler and stainless piping from a friend of mine who says it was from a skyline?

fits in pretty well..

Was able to use the hot worked pipe I made earlier to adapt to the secondary turbos flange as a extender to lower the turbo better into place.
A 1.5" schedule 40 45° weldable bend fit in with tender adjustments by the angle grinder as a coupler for the primary turbo bypass valve

It didn't warp! And it fits!

A lot more room in here when its not filled up with power adders

Knowing that in order to make the secondary turbo fit I would have to move my steering box out I made a pattern of the mounting point of a leaky steering box I had laying around and cut a shim out of 3/8 plate

One of our local members offered to let me use his oxy/acetylene braising torch to get some experience making my own fittings out of old heater core hard line and some flanges I had made out of some 1/4" steel

All sandblasted up and ready for install!

After educating myself with the wealth of knowlage that is the 3 Greenline Catalouges I was able to come up with a fitting solution for plumbing in the two turbos water cooling lines, and oil drain lines.
(From left to right: Primary turbo coolant feed, Primary turbo coolant drain, Primary and Secondary turbo oil drain junction.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

And here is it's completed state at this time. Ill be getting back into it when Im back from my 2nd year Marine Engineering sea phase (Christmas/January) and see how much I can do in a short month before school starts back up again at the end of January.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

 

[cruiserpilot]

Lot of cool work, well done. Sure runs well. I think you need to focus on welding? At the very least
a MIG, but you might as well get a TIG. This won't be your last project.

 

[Sweatyforehead]

Lot of cool work, well done. Sure runs well. I think you need to focus on welding? At the very least
a MIG, but you might as well get a TIG. This won't be your last project.

Too true on the welding portion, I ground down most of my welds mostly because I was worried about slag inclusions and they just look a little more pleasing to the eye at first glance.
If I had the $$$ I would have gotten myself a TIG welder for this but the student life is a frugal one. Closest I got to TIG in this was filling some larger gaps with a old-school technique called "Texas TIG".