There is little brake fluid moving during brake fluid bleed. I need help. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 28, 2019
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Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
Website
coachglenndavis.com
Hello again.

I'm in the middle of installing new rotors, pads, and stainless steel brake lines. The front two wheels were installed with no issues. Then it was time for the rear right rotor/pads/brake line. After installing the new rotor, pads, and brake line, I attempted to bleed as I normally do. My process is to connect a clear vinyl tube to the bleed valve, put the tube into a container, then press on the brake pedal until new fluid shows.

However, little to no brake fluid moved through the line when I did the right rear. I removed the bleeder valve completely then pressed on the brake pedal. No fluid. Then I loosened the brake line where it meets the steel tube brake line and pressed on the brake pedal. Very little fluid came out, but not the amount that it should such as compared to the front wheels.

After all my attempts to be cautious, did I accidentally knock debris into the steel tube when I uncoupled the rubber brake line?

I need help. I'm hoping there is an easy solution.
 
It could just be that it's a long run and you lost a bunch of fluid when you removed the brake lines. IIRC after I did this job a couple years ago the typical pump and hold method didn't work for me either and I had to borrow one of those pneumatic brake bleeding kits from a neighbor.
 
@Mogwai Like a Mighty Vac? If I try again for another 30 mins, and no fluid comes out, would this indicate the pedal-pump method isn’t going to work?
 
Do you have the ignition on? Not the engine running, but the electrical on. 2 pushes of the button.
bleed.JPG
 
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@Mogwai Like a Mighty Vac? If I try again for another 30 mins, and no fluid comes out, would this indicate the pedal-pump method isn’t going to work?
I don't remember which one it was, think it was a cheapo from harbor freight. Try the pump method per the FSM first and see if that works. Kinda odd it doesn't reference the rear but maybe that in subsequent pages.
 
No, I did not. I'll will try this either later tonight or in the morning. Thank you!

No problem. When the ignition is on you can hear the pump run during bleeding. I had the same issue then bought the service manual and bled them pretty quickly.
 
I don't remember which one it was, think it was a cheapo from harbor freight. Try the pump method per the FSM first and see if that works. Kinda odd it doesn't reference the rear but maybe that in subsequent pages.
It does, just didnt include that page. Same procedure. Front first then rear.
 
@razzyrazz Can you help me understand what happened when I did the front brakes? I did not have the acc ignition on and just used the brake pedal and the open bleeder valve. Do I need to repeat the front with the acc ignition on to make sure all the air is out of the system and the fluid is contiguous from the reservoir through the caliper? I have a long-distance trip next week and I don't want any surprises in the middle of nowhere Kansas.
 
@razzyrazz Can you help me understand what happened when I did the front brakes? I did not have the acc ignition on and just used the brake pedal and the open bleeder valve. Do I need to repeat the front with the acc ignition on to make sure all the air is out of the system and the fluid is contiguous from the reservoir through the caliper? I have a long-distance trip next week and I don't want any surprises in the middle of nowhere Kansas.

I'm very far from being a mechanic so I can't answer that question about the front brakes, sorry. Between the service manual and YouTube I'm getting a lot done though. Unless someone more competent with a wrench comes along before you need to do this I would do all 4 again as the run from the reservoir to the front brakes is pretty short. Be careful on the rear bleed because the reservoir empties a lot faster when doing those. I ran mine too low and had to start over. Definitely a noticeable difference in pedal travel once I did it right though.
 
I'm very far from being a mechanic so I can't answer that question about the front brakes, sorry. Between the service manual and YouTube I'm getting a lot done though. Unless someone more competent with a wrench comes along before you need to do this I would do all 4 again as the run from the reservoir to the front brakes is pretty short. Be careful on the rear bleed because the reservoir empties a lot faster when doing those. I ran mine too low and had to start over. Definitely a noticeable difference in pedal travel once I did it right though.

At least you've been down this path before me. I'll re-do the fronts as it'll go fast. I'll watch the reservoir when doing the rear. Like your experience, I'm looking forward to a positive difference in braking, pedal travel, and pedal feel. Thank you!
 
The pump normally runs and stores pressurized brake fluid in an accumulator so you still have enough power braking to get it stopped in the event of an electrical failure.

This is likely what allowed you to bleed the front, and the accumulator ran out of pressure as you got to the right rear.
 
Just remembered.. one implication of this is if you run the accumulator all the way out of pressure, and say the reservoir is only 25% full (I don't know that number to be real, just using it as a hypothetical), when you turn the ignition on and the pump starts to run it could pull all of that fluid into the accumulator, and possibly air too.

So make sure there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir before turning ignition on.

I'm not speaking from experience here, or specific warning from toyota. Just going through the logic of how our brake systems work in my head.
 
You need the ignition on. Then, open the bleeder nipple in one of the rear calipers about 1/4 turn, and lightly press the brake pedal (and hold it there). The ABS/electronic proportioning valve will start pushing fluid thru. Release the brake pedal and let it come up when enough fluid has been pushed thru. Close the bleed needle on the caliper, and repeat on the other one. Make sure you don’t run the brake fluid reservoir dry...

The rear brakes don’t need to be pumped manually. If you attempt the traditional manual pumping method you use on the front brakes, the pedal will be very hard and very little fluid will come out.
 
IIRC speedbleeders aren't really necessary, as you don't need to pump the pedal. Just open the nipple, go lightly press the brake pedal, and the pump pushes fresh fluid out of the opened line.
 
@razzyrazz @bloc @Mogwai @marques Thank you very much! I did as all you advised and started the process again with the front right. Though I had bleed the front two brake lines, old fluid came out. I began to re-bleed the right rear and fluid came out. I could not finish due to a timing issue and will wrap the rear two lines tomorrow.

I'm thankful for all of the help on this forum. I'll repay by providing my photos and guide on changing the serpentine belt, thermostat, and flushing the power steering fluid (after Thanksgiving).
 
@razzyrazz @bloc @Mogwai @marques Thank you very much! I did as all you advised and started the process again with the front right. Though I had bleed the front two brake lines, old fluid came out. I began to re-bleed the right rear and fluid came out. I could not finish due to a timing issue and will wrap the rear two lines tomorrow.

I'm thankful for all of the help on this forum. I'll repay by providing my photos and guide on changing the serpentine belt, thermostat, and flushing the power steering fluid (after Thanksgiving).
You got it. I was, and still am green to most of this, just dive in and figure it out, and reach out to the forum if you need help or virtual courage. Good luck!
 
Glad it worked out. The truck does need to be on to actuate the pump when you press on the peddle. I learned that lesson early with the help of this forum on my 80.
 

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