Ok, a while back I cut about 4 inches off my rear quarter panels to get rid of the rust. Still no welder so they are open to the elements. Anyway I am driving down the hwy and I turn and look over my shoulder and the head liner is filling up like a baloon, almost touching the honda 3 wheeler I had in the back, I am talking stretched like 9 inches down from the roof, so I slow to a stop to check it out and zip it sucks back up to the roof. I have a picture on my other camera I will try and upload tomorow from work. I have read numerous threads that say the headliner is a B*&^%, I am wondering if I could make a small cut or two or three and spary some of that tacky upolstery glue in there and press it into place. Or maybe just poke some holes in it to allow it to vent.
The Strangest Thing Happend.....
- Thread starter HntWhtTail
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
that is odd, no not the 3 wheeler in the back, but the ballooning headliner. My fj60s rear quarterrs are open to the elements and all i get is a cab full of dust during dirt road trips. Do you have the cloth or vinyl headliner?
I dont think you will want to cut it. I do n't think you can cut a big enough hole to allow all the air to flow out, while keeping a decent looking headliner. I can see how the headliner could be a beast to replace since it is stretched pretty tight between the sides.
lunyou
I dont think you will want to cut it. I do n't think you can cut a big enough hole to allow all the air to flow out, while keeping a decent looking headliner. I can see how the headliner could be a beast to replace since it is stretched pretty tight between the sides.
lunyou
You should be able to get to it from where ever the air is getting in.
If it were me, I would use an air hose and find where the air is entering the head liner. Once I found it I would use some 3-M contact spray and apply it while using the air hose.
If it were me, I would use an air hose and find where the air is entering the head liner. Once I found it I would use some 3-M contact spray and apply it while using the air hose.
- Thread starter
- #5
I am preaty sure the air is coming in through the bottom of the quarter panels. And I hear you about the dust on dirt roads, I provide my passengers with masks so they can breath...
a simple solution for the open quaters w/o welder
On top of welding in a plate on my cut quarters, I filled the bottom of the quarters with that expanding foam stuff.
I could see just making a cardboard template, maybe spray silicon on it, tape it up good to the body, then fill in the bottom of your quarters with foam. The cardboard should release because the foam won't stick. Make sure you clean the inside of the quarters good with like laquer thinner so the foam will stick good
On top of welding in a plate on my cut quarters, I filled the bottom of the quarters with that expanding foam stuff.
I could see just making a cardboard template, maybe spray silicon on it, tape it up good to the body, then fill in the bottom of your quarters with foam. The cardboard should release because the foam won't stick. Make sure you clean the inside of the quarters good with like laquer thinner so the foam will stick good
SAS
Seeking higher vistas
Just a caution, for what it's worth, on using the expanding foam...I've read here and other forums where it has been said that the expanding foam traps moisture.
x3 on the no foam. It is an open cell foam material so it absorbs water and holds it against the metal causing it to rust extremely quick. Hence what Lunyou posted.
hmmmm, that's the Great Stuff they sell at places like Home Depot?
I woulda figured something used to seal against wood doors, windows, jambs, etc... wouldn't retain water, as that would also rot the wood rather quickly..
I woulda figured something used to seal against wood doors, windows, jambs, etc... wouldn't retain water, as that would also rot the wood rather quickly..
You guys got me thinking, so I checked out the Great Stuff website:
There are two key differences between latex foam and GREAT STUFF™ polyurethane foam sealant:
Latex foams are typically "open cell" and, as a result, can take on water. In fact the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF™ is closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer skin when cured.
Latex foam does not expand. GREAT STUFF™ expands to thoroughly fill all voids and cavities making it an ideal air-sealant
There are two key differences between latex foam and GREAT STUFF™ polyurethane foam sealant:
Latex foams are typically "open cell" and, as a result, can take on water. In fact the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF™ is closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer skin when cured.
Latex foam does not expand. GREAT STUFF™ expands to thoroughly fill all voids and cavities making it an ideal air-sealant
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks for the foam idea, I will pick some up after work, Hope to sell the 40 soon so I can buy a welder.
The idea should be to NOT USE FOAM!
There are different types of great stuff foam. There are two, maybe three expansion levels. Many people use the "gaps and cracks" level on doors and windows which is a problem, cause it expands alot. There is low expansion foam for places that you don't want the foam to grow "too much."
But skipping foam, why don't you find someone with a welder the fill your holes in the quarter. There are lots of guys on here or try your local tlca chapter to find help. Who knows, it could be free help
.
But skipping foam, why don't you find someone with a welder the fill your holes in the quarter. There are lots of guys on here or try your local tlca chapter to find help. Who knows, it could be free help
.
if I didn't have a welder and needed to cover a hole I would bend the metal to have tabs on each end and use structral body epoxy, holds just as good as a weld. But no chance of rusting.
All the body shops use this stuff.
Second choice would be pop rivets. Then painted over the rivets.
All the body shops use this stuff.
Second choice would be pop rivets. Then painted over the rivets.
- Thread starter
- #18
I like to do these thisngs myself, If I wanted to spend money to have someone fix my rig I would by a jeep...I will get a welder soon, looking for temp fix.
