The one ton swap thread

[cody c]

More pics.

forgot to mention, was working out of town and started a new job in town. Nice to have access to AutoCAD again.

I have two sets of these shock towers if anyone is interested in a set

(below: thin metal for proto typing)

(below: thicker bent version of shock tower)

 

[cody c]

One more.

I’ll be be on brake lines soon I spose. It’ll be nice to have then pan hard on, then it can sit on it’s in weight.

I also need to fab some sort of crossmember under the motor. Clearance is a priority, I had a design in mind, but now with the air bag brackets moved further outwards I think the weight will want to twist the frame rails, I’m probably best off to reinforce things and connect to the upper pan hard mount.

edit, in this pic the shock is about 1/2 stroke, it should have about 5-1/2 down, and the same up. With the bag fully compressed it should have about an inch still, but the bag is meant to act as a bump stop if or when fully compressed or empty

edit: I have a bunch of the lower shock mount pins if anyone is looking for a couple, just PM me

 

[cody c]

Not much for news on the swap, got the pan hard built and was gonna press bushings but I realized I didn’t order any.

pulled the winch to replace cable and clean up, adding fill and drain plugs and synthetic cable.

also had this thing built, brings the jack to 15.25 compressed. Max height is about 25” on the jack extension.

I have shop that can build more, the jack slides inside this piece of steel, I use a old jack crank with a socket welded on one end so I can raise and lower the truck with my drill, it actually works really well, you’d be surprised

 

[Wrencher93]

Not much for news on the swap, got the pan hard built and was gonna press bushings but I realized I didn’t order any.

pulled the winch to replace cable and clean up, adding fill and drain plugs and synthetic cable.

also had this thing built, brings the jack to 15.25 compressed.

I have shop that can build more, the jack slides inside this piece of steel, I use a old jack crank with a socket welded on one end so I can raise and lower the truck with my drill, it actually works really well, you’d be surprised

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Yo, is that a power wheels jeep in the background? Did you fit those rubber at tures to it or did they come on there? I know that's super random but I have a son who would like to have real wheels on his lol.

 

[cody c]

Yo, is that a power wheels jeep in the background? Did you fit those rubber at tures to it or did they come on there? I know that's super random but I have a son who would like to have real wheels on his lol.

I put the wheels on, and motors in the front and run it on 18v dewalt batteries (x3)
This past winter I put a bunch of time into it but ended up cooking a major relay and haven’t gotten to fixing it again.

wire wheeled the 8274 winch spool, rust converter primer, red tremclad paint, then graphite lube paint on the opposite end to help it slide even if dry or when grease is displaced and dried out or dusty it should slide better.

also a pic of the start of the crossmember piece that ties in the panhard bracket off the frame to the opposite side. It’s made so I can drop it and access the oil pan and remove if needed.

painted the panhard bar too, I thought I ordered bushings for and the set that are in it are cooked from welding the new bar between in the chopped off bushings.

Edit: got the cross brace tacked in, will fully weld when I pull the axle out to finish welding radius arm inner brackets.

Also started cleaning up the 8274!

 

[Wrencher93]

I put the wheels on, and motors in the front and run it on 18v dewalt batteries (x3)
This past winter I put a bunch of time into it but ended up cooking a major relay and haven’t gotten to fixing it again

Hmmm...I might have to mod the one I have as well. Just because I can and my kid would like it.

 

[cody c]

As part of my loss of direction in this project I replaced the winch line with synthetic which turned into a partial rebuild and paint up of the 8274… and breaking the thin cast factory free spool clutch housing.

Online you can find a gigglepin upgraded replacement unit for like $200, or factory parts for 50-70, so I decided to build my own (or design and have the parts built).

I will be setting up a shopify account to sell these, but if there’s interest in the forum I’ll be selling these with the upgraded black tee handles, two plugs, and hardware for $75CAD, I’ll put them up for $85 on shopify. You can still and tap the lower housing for the second drain plug. You can see these are super beefy, the factory cast ones tend to seize on the inner shaft, and break easily. You will have to reuse the shaft that came with your unit, and the spring and bearing.

Also built a bunch of CAD files for shock towers and will be selling those too, probably about $160CAD a pair and the lower shock pins to match fox shocks eyelets.

 

[cody c]

A couple small updates.
Final welding on axle done, pretty much while front axle including brake lines done. Working on exhaust, which is 90% or so done. The list is now small piddly sh!t

To run the exhaust over the frame at passenger side, it is super tight, a 1” body lift would be nice, and you basically need to have a joint over the frame for 4” to fit in there, but what I did is make a sleeve so that the pipe slides overtop the next section, and then made some motorcycle spring/loops to hold the sections together. I also have a sturdier mount for the exhaust right near where it passes over the frame to hopefully keep it from rattling against frame or body. I’m using insulation wrap with aluminum tape over top over the frame section, from the turbo down for about 2 feet, and probably a section near the airbag at the back.

 

[dusty2]

Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

Im preping my 80 for 1 tons after a recent flop. my yota axles are for sale. I have a dana 60 hp ford (mid 80s) that I have discussed with a local shop about pulling the tubes and building it pass drop. considering dedenbaur (sp) c's and knuckles. will have arb, 35 spline outers and no...

forum.ih8mud.com

I put tons on my turbod lexus years ago. I miss that truck

 

[cody c]

Ha, lots of travel! Looks good though, what size rubber in the pic?

 

[dusty2]

42's.

 

[cody c]

Ya it looks good!

I don’t know why, but visually 42’s don’t seem big anymore, just adequate and everything else seems to small. Of course they make no sense as they’re costly and more rolling mass to accel and decelerate etc etc, but they look like a hot wheels toy in that they seem more balanced tire vs body.

35’s are a gateway tire..


January 17th: Edit: some minor work done, lots of little piddly s*** to take care of:

I finally pulled the rear diff cover, really should have done months ago. All seems in order but it does have the gov-lock. For those not in the know, 14 bolts sometimes have a factory limited slip called the gov-locker, which is prone to sudden death, but the 14 bolt version are apparently slightly better. As I will mostly use the truck as a DD and for snow wheeling Im not too concerned about it, but the long term plan is for a tru track or similar. I also had some bent SS for some sort of pipe hanger support laying around which matched the roll of the cover, so i made some diff armour. Its painted tan now and looks prettier.

My exhaust is close enough to the rear passenger side airbag to be an eventual issue. I have dealt with a melted airbag in the past because of this. I welded a couple long 1/4-20 nuts on the exhaust, shaped some aluminum, wrapped it with fibreglass roll insulatuion and then aluminum tape foil. Also made some GP03 washers to dampen the heat. The nut was plastered with NickelCoat so that they can come apart one day if ever needed. Exhaust is 4" and now "finished-enough" to drive with. I do need to add some more on, but am waiting on more 4" SS elbows

More updates to come this week or next.

 

[dusty2]

many a great trip in that truck.
-Moab
-several trips to Hammers-broke both rear axles attempting back door. After that i had a pair of 300m axles stafts made for the back
-Dusy trail in the sierras

When I finally sold that truck to a local kid 8 years ago it had no glass left and most of the door didnt close. I had been trying for a couple of years to kill that lexus and I thought I had finally blown the motor. I would frequently let the rev limiter bounce while boosting the turbo past 10 psi. Then after an abusive weekend in the mountains the motor would not start. i thought for sure i had killed her. She sat in the pasture for a year. there was a young man here in my town of hanford Ca that wanted her so I let him have her for $1500.
He called me a week later and let me know she was running perfect....the fuel pump had died. This truck still lives and kills it. She is just a little ugly...

 

[lt1fire]

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many a great trip in that truck.
-Moab
-several trips to Hammers-broke both rear axles attempting back door. After that i had a pair of 300m axles stafts made for the back
-Dusy trail in the sierras

When I finally sold that truck to a local kid 8 years ago it had no glass left and most of the door didnt close. I had been trying for a couple of years to kill that lexus and I thought I had finally blown the motor. I would frequently let the rev limiter bounce while boosting the turbo past 10 psi. Then after an abusive weekend in the mountains the motor would not start. i thought for sure i had killed her. She sat in the pasture for a year. there was a young man here in my town of hanford Ca that wanted her so I let him have her for $1500.
He called me a week later and let me know she was running perfect....the fuel pump had died. This truck still lives and kills it. She is just a little ugly...

I always wondered what happened to your rig, I had wanted to buy it but by the time I got together your asking price it was gone lol. Great pics.

 

[cody c]

I know it’s been a while since an update. I been trying to get it on the road by end of this month. As it’s just been bumped a couple pictures of airlines

Edit: there are a couple major components and changes (FYI my truck has airbags instead of coil springs) the paddle valves and dual needle gauges which control individual bag height. I have now added in a leveling switch which opens a solenoid valve, which splits to two regulators (front and rear). The regulators each split to two check valves, which then tie in to the lines that run to the bags.

Now with one switch for the compressor, and one for the auto fill it can bring it up to ride height. And then by dialing up or down the regulators I can adjust front/rear auto height.

All this integrated into center console, which I’m just using checker plate aluminum for.

The lines and switches all work, two very small air leaks right at the fitting where the lines pass through the trans hump. Been debating about fixing that now or later and just trying to get it rolling. Gonna try to have that fixed this weekend.

Last few things to get it rolling: front driveshaft bolted in. Tighten all rear suspension bolts. Bolt auxiliary tank back in. Find source of and fix rear diff leak. Probably something else too but that’s mostly it till it’s driveable

 

[cody c]

A couple more pictures, was gonna edit in but too many pics in the previous post:

Obviously there is better looking center consoles out there... What I had previously was a piece of aluminum with edge grommet and rubber sheet over the transmission hump. I never finished up the old console with shift boots and there was always a fair bit of trans noise in the cab.

On longer drives I would tuck a sweater in the opening of the checkerplate to lessen the noise in the cab. This time around I've added sound deadening to the aluminum cover panel, sound deadening to the underside of this console, and the shift boots. I also spent a lot of time messing with the airlines to reduce small and slow air leaks which get tedious in refilling or adjusting ride height.

Its weird, I really want to get this on the road, but I'm focusing on smaller bugs that made it less enjoyable instead of just wrapping things up. If Im lucky though I may still have a first drive by this weekend.

 

[cody c]

Spoiler:

Edit: drove it around the block, transmission seems loud, brakes must have a ton of air, and the PS seems week (it seemed strong when I tore the axles off with 38’s after the PS pump was rebuilt) also a bad vibration, an out of round tire maybe (been sitting for a long time and one tire was low).

Lots of things to sort out still before I do any significant travel.

 

[cody c]

Walk around at idle. Still lots to do, but did a 10 minute drive:

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Awesome build up so far, I'm sure it feels great to be at least driving it again. I'm getting some tons swapped under my 4Runner with a 4BT and I cant wait to get it rolling under its own power.

 

[cody c]

Awesome build up so far, I'm sure it feels great to be at least driving it again. I'm getting some tons swapped under my 4Runner with a 4BT and I cant wait to get it rolling under its own power.

Thanks for the compliment!

I gotta figure out steering next, looking at ram assist kits/parts.
My work is nearby multiple hose supply shops so I can easily get something made across the street. The tires run on the radius arms before I get full range, so I kinda feel like maybe a 6" ram x 1.5 would do, it would limit my turning radius a bit but then I wouldn't get tire rub.

Can I just get any hydraulic ram? Do I need to go PSC? Any links to where I tap the steering box? Some of the ram assist kits seem pricey for what they are.

PSC has 1.5" cylinders, 1.75" etc. Any thoughts on sizing? Id rather not add another pump in the system and just run off the existing box.