The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kigiin
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My '07 has the slip joint at the front on the rear drive shaft.
nanthor said:
It is but in a 100 specific forum. I'm not trying to chase you out just pointing out where you landed.
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Bawlz said:
My 03 is the same way. At the front on the rear shaft. My buddy is a Toyota regional service director and recommended buying the "smurf" blue driveshaft grease at the ford dealer and lubing the heck out of the splines. I did it and NO clunk. Worked awesome. Make sure to make which spline you put it back on to as to not get it out of balance.
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nanthor said:
Clunks are clunks and 80's are the same. Your splines are up towards the front, so they fling grease onto your muffler.
Anyone get a clunk AFTER they have just added lube to both front and back drive shafts? When I drive around now, randomly on acceleration and sometimes when the front end flexes I hear a clunk up front.
I took the zert out of the back drive shaft to let excess squirt out, but did not with the front since so much squirted out towards the u joint like posted previously in this thread so I figured the additional grease pressure was removed.
Going to climb under and remove the zert just in case and see what happens.
I took the zert out of the back drive shaft to let excess squirt out, but did not with the front since so much squirted out towards the u joint like posted previously in this thread so I figured the additional grease pressure was removed.
Going to climb under and remove the zert just in case and see what happens.
I know its an old thread... Just researching as I've developed the "clunk"...
Its worth noting to the people asking.. The slip joint should always be at the differential side. This helps water drain out of the shaft instead of being trapped inside.
Its worth noting to the people asking.. The slip joint should always be at the differential side. This helps water drain out of the shaft instead of being trapped inside.
266k on the clock, just redid front bushings and bearings. The clunk that has been with the purchase of the vehicle by my parents close to 8 years ago is gone!
Nice theory, but if your shaft is so sloppy and your wiper seal is so bad and there is so little grease in your slip joint that water runs out of it, you should just buy a new shaft.
So you're thinking that if you spend a bunch of time rocking the truck back and forth in a body of water where the slip joint is submerged...there would be zero chance of water getting inside the shaft unless your shaft is junk?
Go ahead and put yours at the top.
Nope but it will mix with the grease and emulsify. If there is enough water getting in your shaft that its actually sitting there and can run out of the slip joint then your shaft doesn't have enough grease in it and is worn out to the point it would probably clunk like hell. Go ahead and take the slip joint apart on your 100 series and see if you disagree. Whatever though. What would I know. I never wheel my 100 through water anyway.
Granted this logic probably doesn't apply if your idea of wheeling is boggin your clapped out POS at Stave lake every weekend. In that case, ya you probably want to put your slip yoke down.
Granted this logic probably doesn't apply if your idea of wheeling is boggin your clapped out POS at Stave lake every weekend. In that case, ya you probably want to put your slip yoke down.
Last edited:
lol…yuk…stave…
im not sayin that if you have it up it will gaurantee problems…I was just stating why they are situated down from the manufacturer…
I havent had my 100s shaft apart but it looks better sealed than my mini trucks which I have had apart.
even if its 3 drops of water, I'd rather gravity helped it out instead of held it in.
im not sayin that if you have it up it will gaurantee problems…I was just stating why they are situated down from the manufacturer…
I havent had my 100s shaft apart but it looks better sealed than my mini trucks which I have had apart.
even if its 3 drops of water, I'd rather gravity helped it out instead of held it in.
Pumped grease into the spiders until I could see it come out the seals. Man, they were dry!
Pumped grease into the slide yokes until I couldn't force any more into them (hand pump gun). However, didn't see grease come out. Got about 20 pumps in each. Something is probably better than nothing at all.
Yes, the clunking and thunking has been much less. I plan to do this every 5K miles as regular maintenance.
Pumped grease into the slide yokes until I couldn't force any more into them (hand pump gun). However, didn't see grease come out. Got about 20 pumps in each. Something is probably better than nothing at all.
Yes, the clunking and thunking has been much less. I plan to do this every 5K miles as regular maintenance.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Not true. Drop your shaft and clean it out. Lube by hand. I just did the same thing. It just creates a pile of grease on one end, with not path for egress past the seal. Not sure it provides for any grease to migrate to the splines, either. If your seal works properly (i.e. letting grease exit) then your logic is sound, but if the seal is jacked, then you're just limiting DS movement by pumping in grease.
As to the water issue, either direction has pitfalls. With the slip yoke at the diff end, if sufficient water enters, and passes through the splines, it will pool in the cavity by the grease zerk, with no path for exit.
If you spend a lot of time in water, it seems the proper PM would be to pull the shaft apart and clean/dry/re-grease. There is no "sure" way to guarantee that water "drains" out of the DS.
Anyone ever traced it back to backlash inside the diff? My research has found that my clunk occurs between the wheel and the drive-shaft.
I think that is what I have noticed as well on the last oil change, haven't really done any research on it yet.
