Hey Slosh - great pictures- thank you.
Where is your AC dryer?
Where is your AC dryer?
The official 1HDT Intercooler thread (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter Enigma
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Thanks. My AC dryer is in the LHS battery box, well clear of the IC piping.
serenity
SILVER Star
That is a tidy setup!
I bought an LCW too Mount that was posted up way back on the early pages of this thread. It was a poor choice, I didn’t even even bothered installing it. Apart from a whole bunch of other issues, the first unit arrived full of swarf and they welded it without purging it so the internal welds had porosity and huge dags, the second one they sent wasn’t much better. I’m gonna have to cut it up and reweld it before I can install it.
I bought an LCW too Mount that was posted up way back on the early pages of this thread. It was a poor choice, I didn’t even even bothered installing it. Apart from a whole bunch of other issues, the first unit arrived full of swarf and they welded it without purging it so the internal welds had porosity and huge dags, the second one they sent wasn’t much better. I’m gonna have to cut it up and reweld it before I can install it.
I pulled the RHS battery box and there sits the intake preheater relay right where IC pipe feed through the front - another relocation project...
I have a 1995 HDJ81 with a twin EGR equipped 1HD-FT, which is undergoing an intercooler upgrade, which requires an EGR delete.
I have removed the intake manifold and was wondering if anyone can advise me what I should do about the vacuum switches that have been removed as well as the two on the engine (picture #2)?
I have removed the intake manifold and was wondering if anyone can advise me what I should do about the vacuum switches that have been removed as well as the two on the engine (picture #2)?
thoes PWR frontmounts look good, wish I had got one instead of the Cross Country top mount, I cant get the Spal fan to last, my 3rd one just crapped out driving up to Karratha again, I suspect they die from heat when used for a long time sandwiched between the intercooler and rocker cover, the drive to Karratha is 16 hrs strait. I would go a front mount if doing it again, less to go wrong with no fan, and once the fan stops working on a top mount there is virtually no iintercooling affect at all so it throws your AFR tune out the window
Depends on what you want/need to have system-wise on you motor. My 1HD-FT only has two VSV now on it, one for SICS, and the other for the AC Idle-Up.
Running the Safari setup here. The other item to consider is if you will be using the glow-screen. I had to have the intake adapter wedge machined to retain that item...and glad I did, as now living in Northern ID where it comes in handy.
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Are you running the fan full time? I wouldn't think there would be a fan with a 100% duty cycle. I was looking at the small cross country top mount due to it being the most practical for access and off road touring. I had been wondering about the fan - I have a relay trigger on my pyro I could use to control it but from what you are saying it needs to be on full time on the highway? Are you running the small patrol scoop?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
FMIC = KISS
So not knowing what to do exactly I decided to remount all the VSC and switches (without the EGR valves) so not to affect the IP circuits (BACS, SIC and AC idle up) at least for now. As you can see I kept the intake heater, but rewired with 6 gauge since it was twice as far away as before.
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its the small cross country top mount, with a large scoop, yes I have the fan running all the time. I will get the fan replaced under warantee as this one died after about 10 months. When I was doing shorter trips the first fan lasted a bit over 2 years. I did email Spal, they do a brushless fan in the same size that has a lot greater duty cycle and higher opperating temp range. The intercooler is a good size for access for sure
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
@SeaJay can you heat shield the fan motor, (without trapping heat in), and if you haven't already, increase the fan cable size and heat shield the cable too.
There's more resistance in hot cable which causes a voltage drop, and higher amps which heats the cable, so it's an ongoing downward spiral reducing fan speed and fan duty cycle.
There's more resistance in hot cable which causes a voltage drop, and higher amps which heats the cable, so it's an ongoing downward spiral reducing fan speed and fan duty cycle.
I have increased the cable size already, but the 40amp narva relay is fitted to the inner gard neer the air con pipe, about where the blue hose for the airlocker is in the pic, I was wondering if it was getting too hot there and may relocate it in fromt of the battery where it would be a bit cooler. Thats a good idea with the heat shield
You can get heat shield sock tubing which slips over cabling - can use it for spark plug leads close to extractors etc. might be useful. There is also heat shield adhesive tape. Not cheap but works well.
FJRanger
SILVER Star
What's the part number for the brushless fan Spal gave you, as I'm in the boat same and currently on my 3rd fan. It's since been rewired with a relay to switch on and off with the boost pressure.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Great link. That's exactly the stuff I was thinking
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Some strategic heat shield made with ACL heat shield could make a difference too
http://aclperformance.com.au/web/ac...789ca2570ee001ccb2d/$FILE/ACL Heat Shield.pdf
http://aclperformance.com.au/web/ac...789ca2570ee001ccb2d/$FILE/ACL Heat Shield.pdf
I havent heard from Spal head office yet, did find a 10 inch one with part No. VA109-ABL321P/N109-A/SH but it looks like there 80mm thick, about 30mm more than my existing, and I dont have that room
