The Maltby Crusher, a tribute to Dad (1 Viewer)

[MaltbyPenn]

I've been lurking a short while on mud. Such a great community. I'd like share where I'm at with my project and would welcome any advice.

I've grown up in FJ40s, specifically, Chevy conversions. Early pics, before I can remember, capture my dad, brother and I out in my dad's 69 FJ40 with a 327. Later, in high school, I got to drive my dad's 73 with a 400. I worked in Seattle during the week and drove that Landcruiser home, over the pass, every weekend. Over the years, I've had a few project FJs of my own including a 78 with a 327 but nothing really got off the ground like my high school rig.
Dad picked up 76 about 10 years ago and reintroduced the Chevy 400. It was a good rig, minimal rust, balance and blue printed 400, 400 turbo automatic, saginaw power steering, custom shelves front and rear top and ford explorer power seats.
Through good times and rough times, Dad and I always found time to bond of the latest work on our FJs. Dad passed away last year and everyone knew I had first dibs on the Land Cruiser. I bought it from my step mom and took more drive over the pass in my dad's FJ. The title has finally transferred into my name, so work on this rig continues...I just miss the conversation around it.

Here is some pics from the beginning.

Fresh paint on headlight trim

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

Front headlight trim was cream white, first order was to match my high school rig and paint it black.

Cat

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

A wild cat was spotted in our neighborhood.

Rear driver side interior

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

Entire rear end was covered with carpet. I'm pulling everything out, sanding, treating with UPOL primer and then shooting it with raptor liner. I have a rust spot over the rear fender. I've never done body work before, so I think I'll give it a try. I picked up a Viper 180 MIG welder. It should be interesting.

Drivers seat

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

Front seats and center console are from a ford explorer. A little worse for wear. I have new set of corbeau seats to install.

More pics and progress pics to come.

 

[dmaddox]

It is always awesome to hear and read about how Land Cruisers have bonded family, sprouted friendships, rekindled old friendships, and created communities. I am happy that you have the opportunity to own your family cruiser! It will always mean more. It is also cool to see another T-621 rustic green. One of the best OEM colors.

Now, flip your bezel around (the fat part goes up) - tell the cat you'll cook it if it keeps leaving paw prints on your truck - and restore the cruiser. Also be careful with the felt/carpet glued to the inside. Carpet is great for absorbing moisture, which...in the Pacific NorthWest is like putting rust directly onto your cruiser. Nothing beats a strong and dialed in 2F, stock seats, and original 4 speed. These rigs in their natural habitat....sing like brian johnson of ac/dc....raspy, a few rattles, but solid rock.

Seriously though - do what is fun and works for you guys, especially if you and your Dad kicked it off. Good luck with the project and let us know how we can help. Welcome to the forums!

 

[73fj40lc]

I've been lurking a short while on mud. Such a great community. I'd like share where I'm at with my project and would welcome any advice.

I've grown up in FJ40s, specifically, Chevy conversions. Early pics, before I can remember, capture my dad, brother and I out in my dad's 69 FJ40 with a 327. Later, in high school, I got to drive my dad's 73 with a 400. I worked in Seattle during the week and drove that Landcruiser home, over the pass, every weekend. Over the years, I've had a few project FJs of my own including a 78 with a 327 but nothing really got off the ground like my high school rig.
Dad picked up 76 about 10 years ago and reintroduced the Chevy 400. It was a good rig, minimal rust, balance and blue printed 400, 400 turbo automatic, saginaw power steering, custom shelves front and rear top and ford explorer power seats.
Through good times and rough times, Dad and I always found time to bond of the latest work on our FJs. Dad passed away last year and everyone knew I had first dibs on the Land Cruiser. I bought it from my step mom and took more drive over the pass in my dad's FJ. The title has finally transferred into my name, so work on this rig continues...I just miss the conversation around it.

Here is some pics from the beginning.

Fresh paint on headlight trim

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

Front headlight trim was cream white, first order was to match my high school rig and paint it black.

Cat

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

A wild cat was spotted in our neighborhood.

Rear driver side interior

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

Entire rear end was covered with carpet. I'm pulling everything out, sanding, treating with UPOL primer and then shooting it with raptor liner. I have a rust spot over the rear fender. I've never done body work before, so I think I'll give it a try. I picked up a Viper 180 MIG welder. It should be interesting.

Drivers seat

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 2, 2018

Front seats and center console are from a ford explorer. A little worse for wear. I have new set of corbeau seats to install.

More pics and progress pics to come.

Welcome to mud and great cruiser. It is funny that you have driven a few 40’s with the 400 SBC because I have a 73 with a 400 bored over to a 406. The old 400’s are getting harder and harder to find nowadays just like our 40’s. There aren’t too many 40’s around with a 400 installed as opposed to the 350 or LS swap.

 

[Downey]

A nice upgrade for this rig would be a 700R4 automatic transmission. Why: (1) shorter transmission, so longer rear drive shaft, (2) 700R4 has a lower first gear than 400, (3) 700R4 has an overdrive high gear, and (4) 700R4 does not need any electronics to shift like newer transmissions.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

I spent a lot time over the last couple weeks on the crusher. First thing is getting rid of the Ford Explorer seats and start prepping the interior for Raptor liner.

Rear view

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

My PO and father, welded a new seat frame for the seats. Unfortunately, he is 5'7" and didn't care about bigger drivers. They had to go.

Old seats

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

I hit a serious dilemma, should I remove the factory rubber under the drivers feat and on the transmission hump. I really didn't think the raptor liner would work well over the top, so I decided to remove it. I also had some surface rust directly under the heal. Removing this was a pain. Here is what I tried in order:

1. Scrapping with a flat blade screw driver - Slow going, scratched the metal
2. Added heat gun - A little better, but still slow.
3. Metal scrapper - Too broad and required too much force, any slips and the knuckles were bloody
4. Brake cleaner - Removed the top layer and any clean up. I also laid paper towels over it and soaked the towels with brake clean, its was basically a waste of a bottle of brake cleaner.
5. Aircraft stripper - Worked a little better than brake cleaner, but still slow going and I started seeing purple unicorns.
6. Propane plumbers torch - Direct heat on the rubber turned it to mush, worked best that day, but it was a little worrisome and more crazy fumes. I finished the drivers side using that method.
7. Propane plumbers torch on the metal - After a tip from a good friend, heat the metal up from the other side, ***Bingo*** best idea. I removed all of the rubber off the transmission hump in 15 minutes where the other techniques took closer to an hour.

I think I might regret losing the heat and sound damping. I've read a bunch of posts and the best I've seen is heat shields, did I miss anything? Lots of shade on undercoating so I'll stay away from that.

Time to think about new seats. I went with the corbeau baja XRS. I like the side support and the fact that they are suspension seats. I'm mounting a full roll cage (more on that later), so I thought it would be appropriate to have a 5 point harness. I ordered my seats with heaters, but skipped the submarine slot. I also bought the corbeau 5 point harness with the camlock. My theory was that I can run lap only for just cruising, but full 5 point was be good for hairy trail driving.

On the roll cage. I order the Metal Tech full cage directly from Metal Tech. What a beautiful piece of metal! I dry fit it on the crusher. Notice the red neck roof rack:

Roll cage dry fit

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

Since I have the seat riser bastardized onto the bottom of the Explorer seats, I ordered a new set from CCOT. With these and Corbeau seat frame, I dry fit the seats. Unfortunately, the bar above the seats seam too close to the seats to mount the shoulder belts on.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I'm considering getting some more roll bar pipe and setting up a system to run a cross bar behind the seats that I can attach the shoulder belts. I'd like it to be removable so I can take them out if I'm not on the trail and just run the lap belt. I might add shoulder belts, just for convenience.

With that, the cage and seat brackets were off to the powder coaters:

Off to get powder coated

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

Time to turn the attention to the tub. I removed the gas tank and tank cover. Rust in the usual spots. Lots of DA sanding and some media blasting and it was pretty clean. I took another step and painted on phosphoric acid. This did a great job, but I didn't know that I need to neutralize the acid with water. I did try to clean it off with UPOL degreaser. I primed both with an epoxy primer. I ran the DA sander and flapper disk over the tub. It's a long process:

Transmission hump removed

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

I did find some rust in the bolts in the rear fender support. I flapper disked it down to find out how much damage there was. I definitely needed to replace some metal. After reading copious posts here, I measured the size of the patch, cut a replacement piece and traced it out. After some loving time with my cut off wheel, I got it opened up.

Rust removed

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

Rust scales! I wire brushed it out, phosphoric acid and then rinsed it with water. It is ready to weld in.

Primed frame support

• MaltbyPenn
• Aug 28, 2018

On a side note, I learned a ton about metal work, again, tons of posts. I bought a viper 180 mig welder and test ran it two nights ago. With an expert friends help, its setup, and I laid down some beautiful beads. I look forward to welding this into place.

Thanks for viewing my story, I appreciate all of your feedback and recommendations. I'll keep the updates coming.

 

[White Stripe]

Nice work so far. It might be worth the effort to pull the roll bar supports altogether and fix the rust underneath and reinstall or else it will continue to grow. Keep in mind that if u use bedliner it will look great, but it's harder to detect new rust and will hide it until it gets really bad and bubbles up the liner. It also seems that when rust forms under bedliner that it spread very fast compared to paint. If u just use paint instead, it will be easier to spot rust coming back, and easier to repair in my opinion. A nice thick or insulated yet easily removable mat of some sort could be used as floor insulation. I removed my heater and added insulation to the inside of my firewall that's held on with velcro patches so it's removable. I noticed a lot of heat coming from the firewall and that seemed to tone it down.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

Nice work so far. It might be worth the effort to pull the roll bar supports altogether and fix the rust underneath and reinstall or else it will continue to grow. Keep in mind that if u use bedliner it will look great, but it's harder to detect new rust and will hide it until it gets really bad and bubbles up the liner. It also seems that when rust forms under bedliner that it spread very fast compared to paint. If u just use paint instead, it will be easier to spot rust coming back, and easier to repair in my opinion. A nice thick or insulated yet easily removable mat of some sort could be used as floor insulation. I removed my heater and added insulation to the inside of my firewall that's held on with velcro patches so it's removable. I noticed a lot of heat coming from the firewall and that seemed to tone it down.

I'm really agonizing over these decisions, and I've read this same advice on so many posts on MUD, it doesn't hit home until some is talking about your rig . So I appreciate the advice and I agree with you on both accounts, I'm just trying to find what part of spectrum that I'm comfortable with. At one end, I can remove all roll bar supports and clean the rust, ensure there is no rust underneath, remove the tub, etc, etc, etc. If you knew me, you would fear this would turn into a 3 year resto project which I'd loose interest in, and it become a fire sale. This has already happened one cruiser before this.

Due to the current available garage space and upcoming busy fall season, I think I'm going to power forward...but once again, I appreciate the pointers, keep them coming, I know you're right .

 

[mrboatman]

I`m on the other side of the bed liner. I did Rino line the inside of the tub BUT i`m in very dry climate in southern Nevada so moisture and humidity is not a concern here. I do agree with @White Stripe on the rust problem and a bed liner. If your in Seattle I would just put some paint down and use a rubber mat. Just my 2 cents worth. Your project looks good keep plugging along.
JP

 

[SteveH]

Great story and photos, and a good truck to start with. Glad you could bond with your father over this truck.

Keep in mind that if u use bedliner it will look great, but it's harder to detect new rust and will hide it until it gets really bad and bubbles up the liner. It also seems that when rust forms under bedliner that it spread very fast compared to paint. If u just use paint instead, it will be easier to spot rust coming back, and easier to repair in my opinion.

White Stripe is right - stick with paint over metal. Even in Colorado, I have seen trucks with rust under the bedliner, and it's a nasty job to spot it and fix it.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

Ok, conscience, White Stripe, MrBoatman and Steve, you've won me over. My step mom said Dad has this rig "professionally painted" several years back, yet there is still surface rust (not bad) all over the inside. What do I do differently this time to keep that from happening? I have a quart of epoxy primer and hardener, but should I do anything extra, like Por15? (I've never sprayed beyond rattle can, so this is a new world for me).

Secondly, if I paint it, can I go back to the thick rubber coating to reduce heat and noise or is it like the bed liner, covering up future rust? BTW, the tubs best metal is where I removed that rubber!

 

[bottombracket]

Thanks for the great read. Looking forward to your progression with this build.

@Racer65 makes the best floor mat I've ever seen. It is perfect - redo your floors, skip the liner, and go for a high quality (eg Racer) rubber floor mat.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

You are right @bottombracket . I have my second $400 order with @Racer65, all new rubbers for the top and doors, the mat is on the short list for the next order. I'm wandering deep into questions that can be found by more hours searching. Thanks again everyone. I'll update the thread with pics once I patch the tub and prime it.

 

[White Stripe]

Ok, conscience, White Stripe, MrBoatman and Steve, you've won me over. My step mom said Dad has this rig "professionally painted" several years back, yet there is still surface rust (not bad) all over the inside. What do I do differently this time to keep that from happening? I have a quart of epoxy primer and hardener, but should I do anything extra, like Por15? (I've never sprayed beyond rattle can, so this is a new world for me).

Secondly, if I paint it, can I go back to the thick rubber coating to reduce heat and noise or is it like the bed liner, covering up future rust? BTW, the tubs best metal is where I removed that rubber!

If surface rust shows up again it's no big deal because it's not trapped under bedliner. Just paint it, and if it gets scratched up over the years, take out the seats, clean up the surface rust, and paint the section that's bad. That's my recommendation. Make sure to use metal etching primer first on the bare metal. As far as noise and heat, I used this stuff. CSI 25070 Heat Shield Insulation 4 FT X 6 | eBay
U could put it underneath your rubber mat or carpet. I attached it with pieces of velcro here n their. The insulation and carpet in my cruiser is easy to pull out. If it gets damp I just pull it out and let it all dry out and then put it back. It also makes for easy clean up as I just pull out and power wash it all off. If u look at my build thread you'll see how I made a paper template first for the insulation. Then I layed the template over the insulation and cut the shape out. Before the insulation my firewall was as hot as a frying pan. With the insulation on the firewall the insulation is only Luke warm. The insulation is also laid out on my Trans tunnel and front floor but I don't have a pic. I used Raptor on my cruiser but only because it's got a aluminum body so no rust.

 

[SteveH]

My step mom said Dad has this rig "professionally painted" several years back, yet there is still surface rust (not bad) all over the inside. What do I do differently this time to keep that from happening?

Garage the truck at all times (seriously), and wipe up all the water that leaked in after you wash the truck. Prop up any rubber mats that are damp underneath (after wheeling or washing). Rubber mats are fine, as long as there aren't pools of water underneath them.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

Started my first steps into auto body. Bought a gravity feed paint gun epoxy primer, paint and clear coat. I made a make shift paint booth in my garage with painters plastic taped on the frame of a tent.

I got everything set up and thought I'd get the primer on Monday, but my brother and I took a surprise trip back to my Dad's house. My step mother is selling and moving on so there were some things we needed to pick up. My dad still has the engine he pulled from this landcruiser along with the transmission under a tarp. Looks to be in good condition. I'll see if I can rent a cherry picker and get it in my Tacoma before she gives it way.

I was under the gun to paint due to the fact that I was taking the family to Hawaii on Friday. Skipped out of work early on Thursday and laid down the primer. I really struggled with the gun, but eventually turned the tub, gas tank cover and transmission hump black. Mixed up the paint, but it did not look right. It was more of an olive green. Re-analyzed the label. It read rustic green but the paint code was 612 instead of 621. Paint stores now closed, and I'm leaving the next day.

I helped open wesco auto body the next morning, got the right paint and spread 3 coats of 621 rustic green. Unfortunately, I didnt have 4 hours of dry time for the top coat. As I understand it, top coat has to go on within days of the paint or it won't bind!?!? Looks like I'll be running base coat alone. Had the house sitter text me some pics, thank goodness you all cant see a close up, definately amateur hour.

Tub paint from side

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 9, 2018

New tub paint

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 9, 2018

 

[MaltbyPenn]

Well, back from Hawaii, what a nice break from the hustle. Went on the same twin falls hike as a family we did 5 years ago.

Hawaii

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 18, 2018

Back to the crusher. I test fit the metal tech full cage I just powder coded. I wish I was more impressed. The fit was horrible. Window crank wouldn't clear the bar and the visors will no longer swing up.

Blocked window crank

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 17, 2018

I talked with Metal Tech. They talked to production and said that the heat from the powder coating could have warped the cage. I stretched the cage with a clamp and bolted it in place.

Stretch roll cage

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 17, 2018

No longer have clearance with the dash, but I can roll my windows up, even though the crank hits the roll cage on each stroke.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I "rebuilt" my heaters, had the cores cleaned and pressure tested. Stripped the old insulation coating off the heater lines and rewrapped them after brasso'ing the lines. One line bent several times when I was pulling the insulation over it. I worry this may develop a leak in the future.

Rebuilt heater lines

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 17, 2018

I installed the corbeau seats and iCrap center console. I had to trim off some threaded tabs on my seat frames that I'll probably regret later to get the center console to fit.

Back of new seats

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 17, 2018

Side view of new seats

• MaltbyPenn
• Sep 17, 2018

I took it on a test drive. The turbo 400 transmission is not shifting unless I run the RPM's up. I might have a problem with the shift modulator. I also have a tranny fluid leak.

It's starting to get cold here in the Northwest so my next project will be getting the top back on.

Recommendations welcome.

 

[MaltbyPenn]

This landcruiser is really coming together. I got the doors back to functional. Neither door would open well. Both had broken external handles. I replaced with OEM external handles and aftermarket everything else. I had to add bends to the internal door handle rod to get enough pull on the door regulator to smoothly open the door.

I order new OME heavy springs, shackles and shocks from Olympic 4x4 in Snohomish Wa. Carl had it to me same day!! I was dreading installing this lift based on the stories here. But, so far, so good. Took me about 2 hours Sunday for the first corner and 1.5 hours last night.

Rear shackle

• MaltbyPenn
• Oct 2, 2018

First leaf

• MaltbyPenn
• Oct 2, 2018

I also received a new set of BFG 295/70 17s. I might be regretting not going with 16s, time will tell. With my 40 on jack stands, the tires are centered well on the disk brakes. I'm really happy with this much lift.

Tire fit

• MaltbyPenn
• Oct 2, 2018

I'm not as happy with the tire sitting so far forward. I'll likely go back and drill new holes in ubolt pad and axle to move it back.

I just couldn't get enough of my 40 last night, so I snuck down to garage and re-badged and installed the new headlights from @Racer65 .

I need stinking badges

• MaltbyPenn
• Oct 2, 2018

Racer headhights

• MaltbyPenn
• Oct 2, 2018

New rims come tomorrow, hopefully I'll have all corners lifted and ready for the new meats this weekend.

 

[k91]

Do you by chance live near Bothell Everett Highway and 180th? I’m pretty sure I saw a green cruiser rolling around without the roll bar and the windshield down around Sept 17th, was it you?

 

[White Stripe]

Interior looks nice. I removed my sun visors all together. I'm looking at getting some RAZR side by side cage mounted visors. I had to really mess with the icrap console to get it in. Also, the internal parts vibrated like crazy, so I put this stuff on all the internal parts to keep it from clanking around. I even put it on the hidden drawer slide. A lot of people paint the rear crossmember black and the front bumper black or factory pewter.
5ft 1/32" X 7/32" Rubber Edge Trim Seal Black U Channel Door Window WaterProof | eBay