The infamous clunk (1 Viewer)

[Macsluci]

Yes. I know this has been covered but it hasn't helped.
All points have been greased moly, oils changed. Little to no movement in the cvs.
It will clunk when going from R to D or when in park to those when there isn't tension in the driveline. It will jolt/clunk when hitting gas after coasting.
It goes away when locked center diff.
What the h*ll, I wish I knew more about this
Update: have learned to live with it. Use these little habits and it is much less noticeable. For me at least
-shift into neutral with a slow roll just before going from d to r or r to d. No clunk for me when I do that
-don't cancel or lower cc when going up hill, that makes a clunk
-don't set cc when cruising with no gas applied
-don't give or ease gas at shift points. Just keep steady gas until shifted
This all makes it seem like I don't have a clunk, very nice.

 

[JakeTheSnakeNH]

I thought the last step was diff and engine mounts

 

[awesomeissquid]

And I thought if that last step (diff/engine mounts) didnt fix it then it was minute wear in the transmission/transfer case that really cant be solved.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

It goes away when locked center diff.

Splines in the Hub flanges + outboard CV shafts are worn.

 

[Jeppers]

Rear upper control arms and new toyota drive shafts fixed mine

 

[Macsluci]

Splines in the Hub flanges + outboard CV shafts are worn.

Not that they dont move

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Not that they dont move

You pulled the dust caps off and had somebody shift from R to D while you watched the outboard shaft in the hub flanges?

 

[Macsluci]

You pulled the dust caps off and had somebody shift from R to D while you watched the outboard shaft in the hub flanges?

You can watch and hold the outer boot and see if it moves, it's all connected. I've had someone under the car while I shifted it checking the linkage too. I'm just gonna try diff mounts because all my mounts except motor are bad

 

[Clunky]

"The infamous clunk" , yo, you talkin' about me?

FWIW, I have new engine and transmission mounts and I still have the clunk.

 

[Macsluci]

"The infamous clunk" , yo, you talkin' about me?

FWIW, I have new engine and transmission mounts and I still have the clunk.

Lmao I'm gonna do the diff mounts cause they were moving a bit much....

 

[Mike NXP]

Following a lot of the clunk threads out there and it really is a mixed bag of success. I fell victim to throwing parts at it that really didn't need to be replaced. My front diff bushing appeared to be worn and I replaced it, new OEM had just as much flex to it and made no difference. On the flip side some people say they simply grease their drive shaft and it gets better. There are a lot of possible suspects.

 

[gregnash]

There could also be slop in the pinion flanges on either the front or rear driveline(s) at the diff. I would grab the driveshaft and try to turn by hand to see if there is anything going on.

While you may not think there is movement in the CV and hub flange there definitely could be. @2001LC has a great thread on the clunk and plenty of videos on how to possibly see it from multiple angles/locations.

 

[gregnash]

Following a lot of the clunk threads out there and it really is a mixed bag of success. I fell victim to throwing parts at it that really didn't need to be replaced. My front diff bushing appeared to be worn and I replaced it, new OEM had just as much flex to it and made no difference. On the flip side some people say they simply grease their drive shaft and it gets better. There are a lot of possible suspects.

This is because there are multiple points of failure that could cause it, so like getting a vague code... there is some testing and trial/error that is associated with getting it and not everyone is going to have the same results or issues.

 

[ramangain]

Splines in the Hub flanges + outboard CV shafts are worn.

X2

You can poke and peek at your current hardware whle installed until the cows come home. Removal and close inspection is required to see how bad it actually is. Been there, done that, as have many others.

 

[Patron100LC]

I thought mine was also doing it, even after replacing some stuff thanks to the advice of some threads here. I thought there’s something really wrong..Until I drove a 2019 LX with 8k miles on it.. it also clunked. Felt really familiar. There was a definite knock between gears. Not as much, but it’s there.. this isn’t a Nissan Leaf, it’s a real 4x4 that has lots of moving parts between the flywheel and the road..you can always chase the clunk, you might never catch it..

 

[lehiguy]

I went to a part time conversion and 98% of my clunks went away. Torque steer is gone too, don't miss that.

 

[Dockofthebay]

Like all of you i had the clunk. Had it sitting at a stoplight. When taking off, shifting gears at times. So, i decided to do a sensor lift. Starting out cleaning them up and lubricated the moving parts. Also, lubed the drivelines. Okay, i just picked up a can of Boeshield and i sprayed my sensors, drive shafts, U joints, emergency brake. Just about everything under the truck that moves. Left it to soak overnight and the next day while checking out my new ride height i noticed something very strange.
My LX didn't go thump and bump anymore. Was it using a full can of Boeshield after two cups of coffee or lubing the drive shafts? I'm telling you this thing is Tesla quiet. What do you have to lose.

 

[Moridinbg]

I already wrote in the big thread, but I removed the body from the chassis, replaced all rubber bushings and mounts (including engine & transmission) that exist on this car with OEM, had front & rear diffs rebuilt to add lockers, replaced all 4 U-joints with new OEM, had both hub flanges and one CV changed. Obviously driveshafts have been greased too.
I still have the clunk - both R to D to R when stationary and releasing and then stepping on the accelerator while moving
The only thing I haven't replaced is the second CV axle and visibly it is fine. Or the driveshafts, but that is an extreme measure that I am not willing to take.

 

[Mike NXP]

I already wrote in the big thread, but I removed the body from the chassis, replaced all rubber bushings and mounts (including engine & transmission) that exist on this car with OEM, had front & rear diffs rebuilt to add lockers, replaced all 4 U-joints with new OEM, had both hub flanges and one CV changed. Obviously driveshafts have been greased too.
I still have the clunk - both R to D to R when stationary and releasing and then stepping on the accelerator while moving
The only thing I haven't replaced is the second CV axle and visibly it is fine. Or the driveshafts, but that is an extreme measure that I am not willing to take.

Curious if your clunk goes away with the center diff locked? Your thread inspired me to stop caring about the clunk for a while, it's not worth throwing money at.

 

[Moridinbg]

Yeah, disappears with the centre diff locked...