The infamous clunk (1 Viewer)

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Moridinbg said:
Yeah, disappears with the centre diff locked...
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So wouldn't it be fair to say if locking the center diff lock makes the clunk go away that the problem must be within the diffs or transfer case?

Given your build as an example, there is no amount of fixing bushings, mounts, etc. that can fix that problem.

Whereas with some people they report if they lock the center diff the clunk doesn't go away. To me that translates to an external problem like bushings, cvs,drive shaft, all the other usual suspects.

I think the first test for people with the clunk should be to lock the center diff and if the clunk goes away clearly it's not a problem of worn front diff bushings or any of the other issues people chase to try and fix it.
 
What's the issue with just permanently leaving the center differential locked? I've got the same clunk in my 2007 and it's annoying. I can deal with the clunk shifting gears with the selector, however sitting at a stoplight and releasing the brakes, or coasting and then applying throttle, I'm not sure I want to deal with that.
 
chrisbusnut said:
What's the issue with just permanently leaving the center differential locked? I've got the same clunk in my 2007 and it's annoying. I can deal with the clunk shifting gears with the selector, however sitting at a stoplight and releasing the brakes, or coasting and then applying throttle, I'm not sure I want to deal with that.
Click to expand...
Have fun with tight turns!
 
tenor.gif
 
It wouldn't hurt to make sure you've got fresh, full fluids in your transmission, transfer case, and diffs.
 
Didn't want to start new thread cause mods and "search".

Went wheeling, about 20-40 miles in low range. Once I hit pavement I noticed a clunk when letting off accelerator, and in the last few few feet of braking. Additionally the P to D clunk is violently loud now.

It seems like the P to D is mostly alleviated by axle hubs being replaced and are reasonably priced. Additionally it seems like the accelerator lift could be u joints.

I want to avoid throwing parts so what the best way to diagnose. I've seen the video of watching p to d with match marks. What else should I be trying

I also question the effectiveness of replacing only hubs. Is the metal of the hubs weaker than splines on the CV? What is going to stop them from wearing again with an old axle?

98' 220k miles
Thanks
 
Dagtwo said:
no. had and o/d issue. but i was hoping it would fix it. And the clunk is a little bit less noticeable now
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Have you greased your driveshaft lately? Or checked the U joints?
 
ohuj100 said:
Didn't want to start new thread cause mods and "search".

Went wheeling, about 20-40 miles in low range. Once I hit pavement I noticed a clunk when letting off accelerator, and in the last few few feet of braking. Additionally the P to D clunk is violently loud now.

It seems like the P to D is mostly alleviated by axle hubs being replaced and are reasonably priced. Additionally it seems like the accelerator lift could be u joints.

I want to avoid throwing parts so what the best way to diagnose. I've seen the video of watching p to d with match marks. What else should I be trying

I also question the effectiveness of replacing only hubs. Is the metal of the hubs weaker than splines on the CV? What is going to stop them from wearing again with an old axle?

98' 220k miles
Thanks
Click to expand...
I don't think there's a silver bullet or a single cause. Greasing all zerks makes mine much quieter. I bonked my front diff with my palm and can hear a familiar clunk (front diff cover mount). There is also a lot of merit to the hub flanges. Saw a video out there somewhere of the axle spinning freely within the hub flange so it does wear, and it seems to be a popular fix. Lots of metal changing directions from R to D. Clunking letting off accelerator, etc. always goes away on mine with a fresh shot of grease thus it’s probably lots of things.
 
Columbo624 said:
I don't think there's a silver bullet or a single cause. Greasing all zerks makes mine much quieter. I bonked my front diff with my palm and can hear a familiar clunk (front diff cover mount). There is also a lot of merit to the hub flanges. Saw a video out there somewhere of the axle spinning freely within the hub flange so it does wear, and it seems to be a popular fix. Lots of metal changing directions from R to D. Clunking letting off accelerator, etc. always goes away on mine with a fresh shot of grease thus it’s probably lots of things.
Click to expand...
I actually freshly greased drive line before the trip.

I am willing to accept it's never going to be perfect, it's a 20+ y/o truck. However the accelerator lift clunk is concerning it feels like it's shocking the driveline.

I'd like discern if it would be worth while to replace the front drive shaft with regards to the lift clunking.
 
Dockofthebay said:
Like all of you i had the clunk. Had it sitting at a stoplight. When taking off, shifting gears at times. So, i decided to do a sensor lift. Starting out cleaning them up and lubricated the moving parts. Also, lubed the drivelines. Okay, i just picked up a can of Boeshield and i sprayed my sensors, drive shafts, U joints, emergency brake. Just about everything under the truck that moves. Left it to soak overnight and the next day while checking out my new ride height i noticed something very strange.
My LX didn't go thump and bump anymore. Was it using a full can of Boeshield after two cups of coffee or lubing the drive shafts? I'm telling you this thing is Tesla quiet. What do you have to lose.

View attachment 2678239
Click to expand...
On an unrelated topic, I use this to clean all my woodworking equipment (table saw, bandsaw, etc). Works great!
 
Driveshafts wear out, slowly but it happens, faster when you are hard on them. If greasing them makes it better at all, or if locking the center makes it a bit better, then it's likely to be in your driveshafts. They are a bit of a pain, but far from the most expensive thing on the truck. If Toyota didn't build such good ones in the first place, you'd have new ones by now anyway.
 
Trying to diagnose my R to D clunk. I get a little bit of clunk when I accelerate quickly, but not much and it doesn’t bother me. The clunk from reverse to drive is pretty significant. CDL engaged does not stop the clunk.

I greased the driveshafts and u-joints. Still the same clunk.

Today I pulled the skid plate off and took a look at the front diff bushings. The attached videos are one for each of those 3 diff bushings while I shift back and forth between R and D.

The forward one on the passenger side has a lot of movement and seems like it's the source of the clunk. See the first video. The other two videos show the other locations of the front diff bushings.

This is the bushing that looks bad (or nonexistent?) and appears to be creating the clunk. What do you guys think?




I don’t see much movement around the other 2 bushings but in the next video see the driveshaft engage reverse and drive, back-and-forth. Is that much movement normal when switching from reverse to drive and back? I never knew it moved that much. Is that normal or also contributing to my clunk?




Both driveshafts have no significant play once engaged. When I try to turn them by hand I get less than 1 mm of movement if any at all.


Video of the other front bushing on the driver side just for thoroughness. Looks like minimal movement to me.

youtu.be

September 9, 2021

youtu.be youtu.be
 
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