Builds The Guzzler - 2009 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[grinchy]

255410 miles
Fresh Oil 5w-30
Fresh oil filter

Hood struts no longer holding the hood up

Wrapped the evap canister ‘in’ line with that self sealing rubber tape. It’s been failing every self test since I lost my green clip last summer. Fingers crossed.

 

[grinchy]

Failed self test, was pretty sure it was the wiring, this seems to confirm that.

 

[grinchy]

You all may recall when an LX tried the Rubicon and had to get towed out for evap issues that caused the AHC to fail?

I happened to already be in low after my typcial failed self test scenario. I was pretty shocked to see that AHc did indeed raise with no issues.

So when there is this daisy chain failure , must be a different kind of evap code than the self test failures set.

Here are the codes I get every few days that are caused likely by a broken wire in my extended evap harness

 

[grinchy]

So . . . I wanted the tpms sensor out of this tire. I read you could pop the bead by just driving over the tire. I’m here to say ‘No’.

Yes , that bead has been lubricated with soapy water. I also spent some time hammering it with a bead slide hammer.

It’s on there. Added an after photo as proof.

Next to try is the jack against the rig method.

 

[TLC2013]

So . . . I wanted the tpms sensor out of this tire. I read you could pop the bead by just driving over the tire. I’m here to say ‘No’.

Yes , that bead has been lubricated with soapy water. I also spent some time hammering it with a bead slide hammer.

It’s on there. Added an after photo as proof.

Next to try is the jack against the rig method.

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I had success with the bottle jack and put it between the rear bumper (Dissent) and the downward pressure got the bead popped pretty quickly. I used my 18v impact and jammed a socket onto the jack to rapidly extend it.

 

[TLC2013]

Did you remove the valve stem? That will allow the tire to flex more and should aid in getting that bead popped. Just be sure to stay clear of the TMPS, I snapped it off inside the tire and had a nightmare of a time getting the pieces out.

 

[grinchy]

Did you remove the valve stem? That will allow the tire to flex more and should aid in getting that bead popped. Just be sure to stay clear of the TMPS, I snapped it off inside the tire and had a nightmare of a time getting the pieces out.

Yes, no valve stem.
I’ll watch out for the tpms!

 

[turbo8]

Not sure how often you need to break the bead on tires, but they make these simple tools that you can use an impact wrench on.

Not sure how well the one from harbor freight works, but it is pretty cheap.

https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-bead-breaker-58918.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21901739417&campaignid=21901739417&utm_content=173216753231&adsetid=173216753231&product=58918&store=179&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=21901739417&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4cvsdmNUG1c6pA_epgDf2Cqo&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlrvBBhDnARIsAHEQgOT7jkss_3GqtJu_EhNEeU_eFh00LH8f2TOb7DSi_I5QeCR5qs6sQDoaAikOEALw_wcB

 

[sedole]

No picture to share, but I've always had great success with the floor jack and ratchet strap method to pop a bead. And lots of soapy water of course.

 

[grinchy]

No picture to share, but I've always had great success with the floor jack and ratchet strap method to pop a bead. And lots of soapy water of course.

My old floor jack worked for this. The new one has a different swing, or my pointy wood block broke, or the jack head is too large. I can’t remember it’s been a few years. Long story short it didn’t work on these tires five years ago.

I’ve had a lot of trouble manually mounting E rated tires, but I think it’s more higher load tires.

Michelin Radials in P 285x50r20 - easy to do. 114 load
Dunlop radial (OEM) 114 - doable, stiffer than the Michelin
Michelin ATX I think it was. Passenger at tire. 114 or so. Stiffer than the passenger tires. Took a while but got there
Goodyear wrangler duratrac 125 load - not really, I can’t recall if I got one or none on before driving to the shop
Kenda AT 129 load. Nope. Couldn’t even get the rim thru them. Direct to shop.

Current situation the tire is completely dry rotted and I still can’t get the bead. Will be jacking it under the rig next.

 

[grinchy]

Here’s the jacking under rig bead breaking
Rim on a 2x4 under the jacking point
Jack under the tow crossmember. I used a random scrap to avoid metal on metal.

The tire tended to tip up opposite the jack.

I ran it pretty high, no dice.

Jumped on the tire and gave it 25 pumps. No change

Ran the jack up even more. It was looking pretty sketchy.

Jump / pump the tire about 20 more pumps. Bead finally gave. Pulled the tire sensor I was after.

jack was then a fiddle to extract, mostly as the hook was misaligning every rotation.

Mission successful . Sketch factor high.

 

[grinchy]

I finally spent some time looking into the electrical on the charcoal canister. It was indeed a broken connection at a soldered joint. Resoldered. Have it plugged in again, will see if I continue to get the recurring self check errors.

Totally expectable since the Ethernet cable I used was solid core. I wasn’t super inspired to replace the entire run, so I didn’t.

 

[grinchy]

Very little drama getting the fresher Kenda off the bead of my alpha equipt rims.
TPMs sensor swap 1 complete.
New TPMs sensor for swap 2 requires my autel programmer to be updated. It’s 9 years old and I’m in discussions with Autel how to accomplish that.

Edit: <I've bought a Win 11 pro license key and am going to bootcamp an old intel mac air. Apparently my Autel TS408 is not licensed for the modern Autel software. It uses an older, Windows only software. I can use the laptop for techstream, so no big deal. $12 for a license key.>

 

[grinchy]

Well, I wandered into a dark corner with Win11 and UDM 2.0 for a few hours. I don't have an actual windows machine, so finding a tool to repackage the ISO was interesting.
The kicker is that the Autel 'old' site 'maxitpms.com' has the mac software just sitting there ready to download and subsequently update the TS408. So buliding this Win OS was a waste of time. Programming the TS408 took about 5 min. Sensor #2 is now programmed and just the swap left.

On the brightside I do have a boot camped Macbook Air sitting here that should be a pretty good techstream experience when I get around to fiddling the xhorse drivers onto it.

Here's the workflow for Win11 on a 2020 Macbook Air (intel chips, not M1) if you don't have access to a windows machine.
Download the Win10 Pro ISO to the Macbook
Download Rufus and Win11 Pro ISO to a USB drive
Run bootcamp to install Win10. Do Not enable Wifi. do not add a product key.
In your win 10 pro instance, copy down the Rufus and WIn 11 ISO to the desktop from your USB
Run Rufus on your Win11 ISO and route the non UDM 2.0 ISO back to your USB
Run the Win11 setup off your USB.
In Win 11 post update, turn on WiFi
Install the Bootcamp updates (two rounds) and Windows updates (2 or 3 rounds)
Activate your Win 11 Pro instance
Profit.

 

[grinchy]

Somehow the sensor I took out of my old tire set had a different id than programmed. I fought with techstream for a day trying to get the TPMS ecu to take that Id. No luck . The ecu was always in ‘initialization’ and would exit the write. The dlc3 pin short override that techstream suggested didn’t work either.

So I just reprogrammed the sensor to the correct id, which only required deflating the tire to put the sensor in program mode. So about 10 min to deflate, program and reinflate.

Finally rid of the TPMs warning lights. It occurs to me I should just be replacing the tire based sensors with a TPMS can.

Next up will be fixing the toe and if I get bold the camber.

 

[grinchy]

Fix confirmed on charcoal canister wiring. No fail codes since then: