The powdercoat place that did mine seemed to just of vanished off the face of the earth Zack.
Not sure what happened but they are gone.
The "GREAT" how to best protect your frame from rust debate...
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The powdercoat place that did mine seemed to just of vanished off the face of the earth Zack.
Not sure what happened but they are gone.
I had my frame sandblasted clean, then galvanized, then powdercoated. It's going to be rust-free forever.
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Thanks Joe.
A few months ago I called that place, and they didn't want to powdercoat over galvanized metal. They felt that there would be issues with the powdercoating sticking. So I am looking into paints now. The Eastwood chassis black looks good.
Zack
When I did my frame swap, I went the galvanizing route. $380 for sandblasting, acid dip and galvanizing.
My frame
Cost goes up based on how big of a kettle the company has. North American Galvanizing has a huge kettle so my frame was a single-dip. Smaller kettles may require multiple dips to cover the entire frame, increasing cost dramatically.
They spray mag chloride all over the roads all winter here and three winters later, I still cannot find a single spot of corrosion on this frame.
Just my 2 cents.
My frame
Cost goes up based on how big of a kettle the company has. North American Galvanizing has a huge kettle so my frame was a single-dip. Smaller kettles may require multiple dips to cover the entire frame, increasing cost dramatically.
They spray mag chloride all over the roads all winter here and three winters later, I still cannot find a single spot of corrosion on this frame.
Just my 2 cents.
I used this Mike Sander Rust prevention grease. www.mike-sander.de. It was tested for three years together with other rust preventive stuff and this turned out to be the best. They put it in untreated hollow parts and abused it with salty water. www.autobild.de/artikel/rostschutzmittel-im-test-35817.html - Translator
It is a solid grease. When heated it gets liquid and it can be air sprayed. Pretty sure it won't rust ever again. I used it over the factory chassis paint of my FJ60 (came from california) which was in good condition. It might be a good idea to use this after the treatment of galvanising and/or painting? But I don't think it is available in the USA (yet).
It is a solid grease. When heated it gets liquid and it can be air sprayed. Pretty sure it won't rust ever again. I used it over the factory chassis paint of my FJ60 (came from california) which was in good condition. It might be a good idea to use this after the treatment of galvanising and/or painting? But I don't think it is available in the USA (yet).
As I stated above, my powdercoat over galvnizing came out great. I'd recommend it. True, the powder might have not gotten in every nook and cranny, but, hey, that's what the galvanizing is for.
is it possible to do this stuff without completely dismantling the truck? time constraints are not helping me. anybody have any ideas of how to do a good job without taking it apart?
or where to have the galvanized dipped route done in Los Angeles?
If you DON'T do a complete resto, then what I'd do (and am going to do any day now, honest)
is hose it out as best you can, let it dry for as long as you can, then put a quart (at least) of
waxoyl or similar product into it. I've used 3M's RustFighter1 on inner panel sections that I couldn't
get to, and 15 years later they still look good. Places I didn't do looked awful 5 years later.
But there's no way to drive a steel car in salt and have it survive forever. It's just too aggressive.
t
is hose it out as best you can, let it dry for as long as you can, then put a quart (at least) of
waxoyl or similar product into it. I've used 3M's RustFighter1 on inner panel sections that I couldn't
get to, and 15 years later they still look good. Places I didn't do looked awful 5 years later.
But there's no way to drive a steel car in salt and have it survive forever. It's just too aggressive.
t
thanks toby, luckily the town i live in is too small so they do not salt the roads, they just plow.
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Of course it is possible....not the powder coating or dipping but re-freshing the frame no probs, actually there is one problem.
I re-freshed the frame on my 84 FJ60 before I sold it. The frame was not in bad shape but did need a rot repair at the rear leaf hangers. Besides this it was in fairly good condition. I cut out the rot, welded in a patch and then re-freshed the whole frame.
I went with Rust Bullet. First I applied a ton of their metal blast. I think I went through 2 gallons of the stuff just to make sure the frame was very clean. Oh and this was after I had pressure washed it to no end. Once I was happy it was all clean I coated the entire frame with Rust Bullet Automotive, using a brush and roller. Once that cured I applied Rust Bullet Blackshell on top.
The results....
Before Blackshell and the location where rot was cut out and a patch welded in. Notice the support bracket for the cross member is not riveted anymore!
And after the Blackshell.....
It wasn't a restoration by any means but it was a big re-fresh. IMHO, it will keep rust at bay on the frame for at least another 10yrs. Now, what was the one problem!? It is a hell of a job!! Not fun by any means and in fact not something I want to do again. Laying on your back doing this work sucks even with decent protective gear.
