The "GREAT" how to best protect your frame from rust debate...

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FWIW POR-15 (in particular, no idea about the other moisture curing polyurethane paints) doe not stick as well to freshly sand blasted metal as it does to steel with a light coating of rust. BT, DT & learned from it.

Was it me I'd galvanize it. There are etching preps made specifically for prepping galv. for paint. Find a local industrial coating/painting specialist and talk to them. Sherwin-Williams has these guys, but they're not in every store and IME the 'house paint' guys seem to think they know as much as the guys with a lot more education in industrial coatings, so be sure of the credentials of whom you're talking to.
 
My understanding, and bear in mind that I haven't done it so I could be off, is that there is an etching solution specific to galvanized that is applied and then presumably rinsed off. Then paint, whether it is direct to the top coat or needs a primer first I do not know. That's why I'm suggesting finding a true industrial coatings person to ask. It could be that even with that etching that the time that paint will stay stuck is limited, but I have seen paint stuck to galv that has obviously been there for quite some time.

And, what if you didn't paint the galv.? It would be unusual (except to Rover folk) and a point of conversation.
 
go peruse the hardcore section and check out the 60/80 cruiser that Waggonner is building. he is currently working on getting the frame galvanized.
 
I'm a Chemical E that worked in the coatings group for automotive coatings for nearly 20 years!!!!

I have restored many series Rovers in a business I owned in the 90's-2005. We had a galvanizing plant 30 miles away!!! They acid dipped them, galvanized them.

We also used zinc rich primer/paint from TSC like a previous poster stated.

Powder coated several!!!

After nearly 30+ frames repaired, restored, refinished in various ways, I learned 1 thing!!!! The way it was cared for after being restored was way more important than which manner was used to protect it!!!

I am buying a FJ60 frame to restore for my Cruiser!!! I am going with the tractor zinc rich primer/paint!!! I have a powder coater 5 miles away, galvanizer 30 miles away! FWIW!!!!
 
I will post info once I get a chance to run by the TSC store!! Believe it or not, it's tractor paint & sticks to anything!!!! Rust, shiny metal, concrete (yes concrete)!!! Must have one serious adhesion promoter in it!!! All I know is that it works great!!!!! A lot of tractor restorers use it on their high $$ restorations & it looks good too!!!!
 
tmonty said:
I will post info once I get a chance to run by the TSC store!! Believe it or not, it's tractor paint & sticks to anything!!!! Rust, shiny metal, concrete (yes concrete)!!! Must have one serious adhesion promoter in it!!! All I know is that it works great!!!!! A lot of tractor restorers use it on their high $$ restorations & it looks good too!!!!
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I used on my frame. Here's a pic of it. You buy it from Tractor Supply. I got a zinc rich primer from Advance Auto Parts and put this on top.
IMAG0551.jpg
 
tmonty said:
I will post info once I get a chance to run by the TSC store!! Believe it or not, it's tractor paint & sticks to anything!!!! Rust, shiny metal, concrete (yes concrete)!!! Must have one serious adhesion promoter in it!!! All I know is that it works great!!!!! A lot of tractor restorers use it on their high $$ restorations & it looks good too!!!!
Click to expand...

!!!!!!!!!

Had to.. lol
 
Fluid Film is a once a year vehicle undercoating and will cost about $40 a gallon. A gallon is enough to do around 3 vehicles. It leaves a wet, non-drying film that migrates to all inaccessible areas, cuts off oxygen, and prevents corrosion from moisture and road salts.

If anyone would like to try a sample who hasn't tried it and lives in the US, just PM me your name and address. We even pay for shipping.
 
Dano50 said:
Fluid Film is a once a year vehicle undercoating and will cost about $40 a gallon. A gallon is enough to do around 3 vehicles. It leaves a wet, non-drying film that migrates to all inaccessible areas, cuts off oxygen, and prevents corrosion from moisture and road salts.

If anyone would like to try a sample who hasn't tried it and lives in the US, just PM me your name and address. We even pay for shipping.
Click to expand...

I can also attest to Fluid Film. I used it for two years prior to doing my frame swap and body swap. It really does a good job of protecting metal and stays on all winter. The only bad part is that it makes for messy under truck jobs down the line!!
 
I just cut the entire inner web out of a 83 BJ60 from the rear doors all the way back. Welded in new 1/4 plate all the way back to the bumper mounts (closed in the "C" part of the end of the frame, which was toast).

Big job but it will buy it some more time. Looks good after I grinded all the edges and welds, I cleaned out the frame when I had it cut open but didn't apply any oil or anything at that point because I didn't want to be breathing in extra fumes when I weld it up...as oil of course will go up in smoke. I then used a HD garden sprayer with hot oil in it (to thin it out) and went to town on the frame getting to as much of the inside as I could. I will be doing this twice a year from now on.
 
tmonty said:
I'm a Chemical E that worked in the coatings group for automotive coatings for nearly 20 years!!!!

I have restored many series Rovers in a business I owned in the 90's-2005. We had a galvanizing plant 30 miles away!!! They acid dipped them, galvanized them.

We also used zinc rich primer/paint from TSC like a previous poster stated.

Powder coated several!!!

After nearly 30+ frames repaired, restored, refinished in various ways, I learned 1 thing!!!! The way it was cared for after being restored was way more important than which manner was used to protect it!!!

I am buying a FJ60 frame to restore for my Cruiser!!! I am going with the tractor zinc rich primer/paint!!! I have a powder coater 5 miles away, galvanizer 30 miles away! FWIW!!!!
Click to expand...

Any updates on your new frame? As the summer gets closer, I want to get my game plan in order. One place I called is almost 1,000 to do the blasting and galvanizing, but they do it all....one stop shopping.


Zack
 
ntsqd said:
FWIW POR-15 (in particular, no idea about the other moisture curing polyurethane paints) doe not stick as well to freshly sand blasted metal as it does to steel with a light coating of rust. BT, DT & learned from it.

Was it me I'd galvanize it. There are etching preps made specifically for prepping galv. for paint. Find a local industrial coating/painting specialist and talk to them. Sherwin-Williams has these guys, but they're not in every store and IME the 'house paint' guys seem to think they know as much as the guys with a lot more education in industrial coatings, so be sure of the credentials of whom you're talking to.
Click to expand...

Pretty sure I read on the Rust Bullet site about how adhesion to sand blasted metal works well due to the pitting that happens when you blast. Don't know about POR15 though.

I think with either product it is just important to have it prep'ed right, ie etched by metal blast on top of whatever else you do.
 
My frame was very rusty when I bought my truck. Since I wasn't doing a full restoration, and mainly off-roading, I got as much rust off as I could with a grinder and sandblasting gun then sprayed on rust bullet. Then I used satin finish black epoxy paint off the shelf at advance auto. Completely happy with results and going on two years with no problems. I use the epoxy paint for all my metal. It's impressive and cheap. Touch-ups are a breeze.
 
Good thread guys. I wish I had a fire hose to blast the little rocks out of my fame (that a garden hose can't move out). I will try some creative ideas with compressed air next.

I used rust bullet with moderate success on my 60 frame (which I have had for 20 years; started using rust bullet 4 years ago). Rust bullet involves fewer steps than POR15. I suggest you follow the relatively simple instructions to a T. Be sure to apply at least two coats at 100% coverage, as one coat will not seal the metal surface. And do NOT get it on your skin. Disposable gloves and brushes are your friends. It is tenacious as hell. Cheers, J
 
Rust? Whats that :flipoff2:

Out here in Arizona we just have to deal with rubber rot from the sun...

Sorry, now back to the discussion :hillbilly:

BTW - Western flyer: Throw up a picture of your 1969 AMX that you list in your sig line <sweet>
 
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