The FJ40 Project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mjl132
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They can color match it, and if you are thinking of lining it anyway I would pop for the extra and make it 
Reel Nice.
Reel Nice.
justbecause
perpetually lost.
a couple of the bham guys were telling me about a local shop that did an e-locker swap + wiring for a guy there.
Maybe one of them can chime in with a shop name, it might be worth checking out before hoofing it over to atlanta.
what top did you order?
Maybe one of them can chime in with a shop name, it might be worth checking out before hoofing it over to atlanta.
what top did you order?
Blackdog
"Y'all smell that?"
They can color match it, and if you are thinking of lining it anyway I would pop for the extra and make it
I would stay away from Rhino Liner. I have seen it first hand peel of of the tractors I used to operate. LineX is top quality IMHO. I know a lot of people who have it and it holds up great. IDK how much extra color matching is but it is color all the way through,not just a color coat.
- Thread starter
- #46
Need some advice, the soft top arrived today and it is Top Gun fabric, not canvas. It was described as a 'vinyl canvas top' so I thought it would be canvas. It was $800 whereas a canvas top is roughly $1250. What's the consensus, keep it or go true OEM canvas for the extra money?
It is a great top, very well made, but I really want canvas. Thoughts?
It is a great top, very well made, but I really want canvas. Thoughts?
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If you want canvas then keeping the vinyl may make you feel like you settled. Check out @Trollhole , he sells canvas tops. Here is the link to his thread. Might be what you are looking for and I think the price is a little better than what you mentioned above for canvas.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/factory-fj40-soft-tops-bikini-tops-and-dusters.753226/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/factory-fj40-soft-tops-bikini-tops-and-dusters.753226/
- Thread starter
- #48
It is actually called Top Gun fabric on the top. After talking to the guy that made it I feel better about it. He is a super guy, seems very nice, I just did not understand what I was getting, which is on me since it said 'Top Gun marine grade canvas' in the description. It's 11.5 oz per inch versus canvas at 18 oz per inch. Seems like good material after some more research and will likely hold up better in the long run. I'm going to hang onto it and hopefully get a long life out of it.
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justbecause
perpetually lost.
but does it have the cool factor necessary to reside on an fj40?
its hard to beat canvas, even though its tougher to clean, stretches/shrinks, fades, has to be re-waterproofed....
this is hands down my favorite 40 on the board. and I dont like red, and I wouldnt ever want SOA. and I dont like how they cut the fenders. but the way all of this comes together, is just so perfect.
its hard to beat canvas, even though its tougher to clean, stretches/shrinks, fades, has to be re-waterproofed....
this is hands down my favorite 40 on the board. and I dont like red, and I wouldnt ever want SOA. and I dont like how they cut the fenders. but the way all of this comes together, is just so perfect.
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BamaHeel
Intergalactic Champion
I like it all but how they cut the fenders.
And how do you hate red? Is that some BS political thing?
And how do you hate red? Is that some BS political thing?
justbecause
perpetually lost.
- Thread starter
- #52
I have made good progress lately. I stripped the tub all the way out a while back and primed it. Went under the truck and cleaned off all of the surface rust, no rot at all thankfully, and undercoated it with 3M undercoating. This made a world of difference in the cleanliness of the cruiser and how it looks.
I then prepped the interior and put down Herculiner yesterday. That stuff is thick and it looks pretty good actually. I hope it holds up as well as it says it will. Prep was the hardest part since I sanded and spent a long time getting it all ready. I also have been trying to get in touch with Marshall at Trollhole and get a carb. I got it running this weekend and it chokes out under acceleration or giving it any throttle. The carb also leaks gasoline, which I can't imagine it safe, when it is running.
So now all I lack is fixing the electrical issues, a new carb, fixing the transmission and it is good to go. Some little issues I did notice driving it the other day, the steering wheel is off center and the steering has more play than it needs. FSM specifies 2 inches of play, and mine is right there at 2 inches, but I think if I center the wheel and play with it, it could be better. I also am going to remove the rear bumper and clean up the grounds to the rear lights, since that may be my brake light issue.
I then prepped the interior and put down Herculiner yesterday. That stuff is thick and it looks pretty good actually. I hope it holds up as well as it says it will. Prep was the hardest part since I sanded and spent a long time getting it all ready. I also have been trying to get in touch with Marshall at Trollhole and get a carb. I got it running this weekend and it chokes out under acceleration or giving it any throttle. The carb also leaks gasoline, which I can't imagine it safe, when it is running.
So now all I lack is fixing the electrical issues, a new carb, fixing the transmission and it is good to go. Some little issues I did notice driving it the other day, the steering wheel is off center and the steering has more play than it needs. FSM specifies 2 inches of play, and mine is right there at 2 inches, but I think if I center the wheel and play with it, it could be better. I also am going to remove the rear bumper and clean up the grounds to the rear lights, since that may be my brake light issue.
- Thread starter
- #53
Here is the Picasa Album with all of the photos from the Land Cruiser I have uploaded.
https://plus.google.com/photos/1081...s/5984531751295784497?authkey=CJzahvj2msifsQE
https://plus.google.com/photos/1081...s/5984531751295784497?authkey=CJzahvj2msifsQE
justbecause
perpetually lost.
- Thread starter
- #56
I will work on the body and steering, etc if you fix my electrical issues. I hate dealing with the electrical issues....
- Thread starter
- #58
Quick update. I have started to reinstall the interior. Herculined the gas tank cover and the transmission cover, I have to touch up the transmission cover and do the seat rails in flat black instead of the blue that they are currently. I also went under the Cruiser some more and cleaned more surface rust and put underside protection on it. It is mostly clean now and covered. So the top and the bottom of the tub should now have rust protection as best as it can without a full frame off. Now just some surface rust on the frame, and considering it is 40 years old and solid, I am not very concerned.
I am also took off the 'warm' pull switch and the 'fresh air' pull switch. Neither was working so I cleaned up the metal slides and the rubber and used JB Weld and picnched the metal back onto the rubber. Should hopefully fix that issue.
Now I have to figure out the rough idle/dying under acceleration issue. The carb leaks fuel, so I know that is part of the issue, but I am now not convinced that there is also not a vacuum leak or exhaust leak around the headers. I have figured out that there are two gaskets where the heads meet the block. Looks like the new carb, new gaskets on the carb to manifold, new gaskets on headers to block, and new gaskets on manifold to block should fix the issue. Also, check the album with updated pics of engine bay (not cleaned up) and some other bits and pieces.
I am also took off the 'warm' pull switch and the 'fresh air' pull switch. Neither was working so I cleaned up the metal slides and the rubber and used JB Weld and picnched the metal back onto the rubber. Should hopefully fix that issue.
Now I have to figure out the rough idle/dying under acceleration issue. The carb leaks fuel, so I know that is part of the issue, but I am now not convinced that there is also not a vacuum leak or exhaust leak around the headers. I have figured out that there are two gaskets where the heads meet the block. Looks like the new carb, new gaskets on the carb to manifold, new gaskets on headers to block, and new gaskets on manifold to block should fix the issue. Also, check the album with updated pics of engine bay (not cleaned up) and some other bits and pieces.
- Thread starter
- #59
Little more detail on fixing the 'fresh pull' and 'warm pull' pull switches. I removed the front heater and the heater air duct to get to both swithces. Then I used a 17mm wrench to remove the backing nut and un hooked it where it is held onto either the heater switch of the little door for the the fresh air. I then I used a small razor blade to shave the rubber sheath over the metal wire (which is inside of a metal sheath). It is important that you don't shave the rubber all the way day to the metal sheath, this will allow you slide a small piece of the rubber inside of the metal and it will grip slightly better. If the rubber is worn all the way, then just use the JB Weld on the outside metal sheath, DO NOT GET ON THE WIRE! This is important because it will just jam the wire inside of the metal sheath and you are back at square one. Clean the rubber, metal sheath, and wire too so the JB Weld will adhere better. Go ahead and square the metal at this point. I found a flat head screwdriver inserted into the metal tubing or metal nipple worked well to round it. After a applying JB Weld go ahead and slide the rubber into the metal and use pliers to squeeze it all back tight. Apply some JB Weld on the outside of the rubber and metal and voila, hopefully, a fixed pull switch. See the pics for a little more detail.
- Thread starter
- #60
She is put back together now and running. The most amazing thing to me is I put the interior back in and didn't have any leftover pieces. Usually I have a screw or two left over. Next step is the electrical issues. I ordered mirrors yesterday for the windshield and some other little stuff.
