The Dutch stole all 5-speed diesels! (nsfw?) HJ60: sillyprep (1 Viewer)

[hj 60]

Decided to continue immediately:

 

[hj 60]

Not a repair again!
Getting tired but has to be done, the rear prop shaft has slop in the spider bearings:

 

[hj 60]

Got it out fine, getting my press this week to press them out instead of slamming:

 

[hj 60]

And here I s*** my pants and puked my dinner:
The stake nut is not staked properly and was loose...

Got it out, the bearing behind the seal is loose, but that might adjust when retorqing the stake nut?
Oil leaked out but that is normal when not properly set I think.
Have to guess how many rotations it made

 

[mongoose2231]

There are some mighty repairs you take on in the open air, with no garage. That's curageous! I guess it also motivates you to finish quick.

 

[hj 60]

Yeah well we are moving to a place with a carport and 3x6 meter garage but the HJ is to high

And 16 days to my 3 weeks holiday and if we go to Croatia again that might end up 5000 kilometers so all must be perfect.
Got a road assistant card for th HJ and trailer so no real worries.

Cleaning the spider gear to release the C-clips:

I got my pressious MEGA 15 ton press back! it was dirty and dusted but cleaned up very well and matches the HJ.
Refill with hydrolic oil tomorrow and one propeller shaft is taken apart, much better than hammering away.

Have to read again what the proper way is, I keep messing with these things:
Just disk-cutting them off is the fastest, press one out and then the other side but that means press from inside out again (possible damage)
Installing is the same drama, strange puzzle to me must read fsm.

 

[hj 60]

que?

 

[hj 60]

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[hj 60]

Damaged hj60 spider bearings when pressing them in, bummer

Next time center them first with a vise, never a hammer because the needles will release and fall out of the ring they form together.
I was lucky this was a cheap spider and the expensive one was on the roof box as spare.

 

[hj 60]

So I think when installing new spider bearing use a vice to align them perfectly flat, then the press, never the hammer as it loosens the needles:

 

[hj 60]

Then I end up with a spider bearing that is to tight in flange yoke and sleeve yoke, release pressure with hammer work really well:

 

[hj 60]

Dont hit the grease zerc, dont hit the snap ring because the yoke has to move, not the needle bearing with snap ring:

 

[hj 60]

Finally a free spinning spider bearing and the normal grease gun does not fit and leaks so I use this push grease gun till grease comes out from the sides.
You can hear air escaping and then grease comes out.

 

[hj 60]

hj60 rear differential axle flange seal, might be original, the axle is just loose in there, seems normal, don't know for sure:
Tightened with 200Nm, but maybe should not have done that because the crush-sleeve was done at the factory with 410 Nm and after removal it is not mentioned in the FSM what to do.

Then release till hand tight and no slop.
Get it further loose was slop, hand tight was no slop.
Did hand tight and a bit more: pre-load was super easy (and before 210 Nm it was not easy to turn...)
Removed the stupid wheel support bridge to get rear of the ground.

AND I think the nut was loose for a few km because while testing in a left hand turn it made a high pitch sound while the lokka was making a unlock thumb sound (bang!)
So that was the moment it was loose I think, I check it often so apparently the stake nut gets more force/load with a lokka.

Just wiggle this axle around, not fixed, was about to remove the carrier but did not do that:
In FSM this is all removed from outside and the bearing is pushed to tabs in the carrier.
So maybe the bearing is (to) loose and should have stayed in place, might need to replace it (especially when it falls off the shaft easily)
It all rolls smooth when completly installed, no sounds or play or grinding.

 

[hj 60]

Used this tool that is meant to break nuts to stake the nut, I dont like the slamming to stake it.

 

[hj 60]

Busy at work
So more HJ60 tonight, just tightening the #14 bolt and nuts at the propeller Yoke.
Yesterday had to quit working because of another monsoon rain

 

[hj 60]

Finished the size #14 bolts&nuts for the propeller shaft flange, all seems good.

Looked around and noticed the water separator seeping/small pinhole leak

Tried to close it with some gasket sealer but that just seeps trough.

Test drive anyway and the small propeller shaft vibration is gone, my wife was very happy with how it now steers easier, drives and aligns better! Should have replaced way sooner, but had no slop at all.

After some beers at my parents in law I was going home on the 3th row with my son and my wife took the mud dirt road to have some fun!

So then we started packing the HJ for Croatia! very exited because the boat-trailer will also go again.

Now trying to replace the water separator (Toyota calls it sedimenter):

77251-60211 BJ60, HJ60, W/SEDIMENTER (07/1983 - 10/1984)
77251-60212 BJ60, HJ60, W/SEDIMENTER (11/1984 - 01/1987)

This is engine side fuel filter, I dont understand the sedimenter txt:
23930 SEDIMENTER ASSY, FUEL
23930-58010 2H..HJ60, W/SEDIMENTER
23930-58020 12HT, 2H..HJ6*, W/SEDIMENTER

Toyota Landcruiser HJ75 Sedimenter assy, fuel 23930-68030

The OEM hard fuel line is 8 mm in diameter (.314"). 5/16" (.312")
(outside with paint I measure 8,5 mm)

OEM is not made anymore, completely unavailable, I can not find a newer land-cruiser replacement.
Then find one with a sensor (if the two green/yellow and white/black wires touch and make contact the filter light goes on) but only sensor I found is 16 Volt.

Maybe fuel is so clean nowadays that a water sensor is not used? BUT I WANT IT BACK!

Bought Delphi 296 without pump as Racor is very expensive, almost 10 times more with sensor:
Bought extra bowl and filter and 8 mm hose connection tule, wil place in original space in chassis and make a steel bracket for protection.
Delivery tomorrow:

Websites with info and parts:

Making Fuel Lines

http://www.mastminder.com/MastMinder%20 ... %20kit.pdf

https://www.svb24.nl/nl/diesel-filter-a ... rator.html

http://dieseldokter.nl/?product=delphi- ... opvoerpomp

http://www.nauticgear.nl/techniek-aan-b ... eider.html

http://www.exalto.com/nl-nl/parts/filte ... erkproduct

Pièces 4x4 Filtration et Snorkels Préfiltre RACOR - sonde de présence d'eau Toyota Landcruiser (série 6#) HJ60 3.9D diesel 1980->1990

 

[Jentuh]

See you've been busy!
The trick with the vise looks a lot better then using the press in combination with scaffolding pipes

Thumbs up for the drive lane based workshop condition!

 

[hj 60]

Thanks Jentuh , I have done many thing past days in better weather but forgot to pressure wash the car inbetween the dirt road test trips.
A lot of sand and mud, good for the tools and open fuel system

The 23930-58010 W/SEDIMENTER (11/1984 - 09/1985) 1 $330.92 is not available anymore, I might repair the tiny leaks it has with some kind of aluminium filler or two component tank filler.

later type: Toyota Landcruiser HJ75 Sedimenter assy, fuel 23930-68030

 

[hj 60]