The Dutch stole all 5-speed diesels! (nsfw?) HJ60: sillyprep (1 Viewer)

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We had 9 kids today telling me I was stinking; the cleaning solvent is a mix of diesel and gasoline, burns nicely when spoiled on skin :skull:
Somehow I managed to get covered in the old grease mix :hillbilly:

new clip and old clip:
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I had to do some more cleaning and searching to find the C-clip, easy to remove when I used a new one to compare:

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So here the fun starts, smashalot:
Pressing them out also works.
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Let the crap begin !!1! :mad::bang::flipoff2:

This should pass because it is made to slide out, mine did not: STOP here if you have this!
(In the video the guy just cuts them off, so maybe it is not such a problem, if you want to reuse than only way is to press them back in from wrong way, might damage)

The U shape is pressed together and the new one might not fit.
When nothing is installed yet there is more room to try to widen the U shape.
If you continue pressing the new one in the C-clip might not fit.

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Sliding in worked (what a load of pressure these things need, feels nasty) but then there was no room for the C-clip, pressed some more:
Now the propeller shaft is turning with a bit of force, not free enough, and still the C-clip does not fit, 1 mm to much thickness.
So that is 55 euro for one set messed up.
The U is pressed in slightly, so if you see this in your truck when removing try to reshape/widen the U (impossible ?)
Once it is pressed and reassembled it is not possible to remove (I think?)

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Then I removed the other (that had no play but I though it would be full of rust)
But it was greased like new but once slammed out they dont seem reusable, another 55 euro wasted.

So then to finish me off the grease zerc is in the way, so I cannot remove and slide off the cap:
Grind off tomorrow and see if this will reassemble like it should, placed an add for a replacement shaft.
The shaft I have has a nasty damage so it may have hit a rock or something, it seems out of spec.

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make sure a needle bearing didnt fall over while assembling as it would stop from seating and turning smooth

I used various sockets to install with a vice. Use a socket just smaller than the bearing caps to seat them completely. Install snap rings.
Then use sockets large enough for caps to clear and press the forks together to seat the c-clips. You should now spin freely.

Good luck.
 
Thanks a lot Dkyuss! Helps me understand and rethink.
Nice video, man what a force is needed I almost pulled my Vice from the bench.

Just ordered three new ones: cheap so no problem murdering them too :cheers:

Should arrive next week before I leave, tomorrow I will remove the one that is wrong and see if the needle fell in.
Also determine if axle is damaged and if U shape can be widened to factory specifications (unknown) , or grind C-clip a bit...

I was moving them while pressing to feel if it was okay, can not believe if it fell in but only way is to remove.
Cant find if they are reusable, if they are not damaged after removal I might reinstall or wait for the new ones.
Reinstalling under the cruiser should not be a pain (for gods sake, :banana:)
 
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The damage that could have wacked&smacked something out of line, looking for balancing shop.

Found that I am to scary for damage, in every video these thing get a nasty amount of brute force throw at them, they can handle a lot.

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Good tip Dkyuss! :cheers:
I have a pneumatic press but gave it away, will install in next house.

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Amazing how much difference a hammer and a hammer make (BFH)
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So there is a difference in cups, :confused::bang: :hmm:

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Decided to grind a bit of, actually from 2 mm standard size to 1,5 millimeter and fits fine, moves fine.
So the problem is 1 (one) millimeter that prevents me using normal c-clips.

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Here is one fitted, the difference is small but I have found not one topic or video about this issue:

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The axle shaft lubrication zerc has a metal pop out plate between the U so it can release excessive grease.
(plate stays open when popped and water can enter)
Removed old grease before fitting axle and tested grease zerc:

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And a picture of one cup with a needle roller pin under it, it wont fit and wiggles, easy to feel and the difference is clear:

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Next is putting it back together but first read the FSM if I need to check for play in the companion flange (transfer-case side) nut, might need to open that metal locking plate and turn the nut a bit? there is a little play.

FSM says tighten companion flange with 127 Nm , that is almost same as wheel lugs, pretty much, no crush sleeve stuff? :worms::eek:


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There it is, the crush sleeve, :( :wrench:

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FSM says tighten companion flange with 127 Nm , that is almost same as wheel lugs, pretty much, no crush sleeve stuff?
No crush sleeve at all.
There are two tapered roller bearings that set the bearing preload. Shimming under the tapered bearing race is the only way to 'tighten' up shaft play. This is likely an indication of worn bearings/races though. Also could be a worn spline? The nut just holds the output flanges on the shaft via a spline connection.
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