Build The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[RWBeringer4x4]

Sometimes it just wants to be a Cruiser?

I’m ok with that as long as it’s a healthy cruiser. Given that I have no prior experience or basis of comparison sometimes it’s hard to gauge what’s normal and what’s broken!

 

[1Fine40]

Hey Rick,

What wire loom did you use on the rig? Looks like a very nice product...

Cheers!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Hey Rick,

What wire loom did you use on the rig? Looks like a very nice product...

Cheers!

Are you referring to the loom under my rectifier diode in the last picture? That’s the IPF headlight adapter harness for H4 halogen bulbs.

The rest of the harness is the the stock FJ40 harness. Any adapter connections to the 350 were modifications to the original harness done poorly by the PO and cleaned up by me.

The other exception is the rear harness (tail lights, fuel gauge, etc.). That was made by @Coolerman. Money well spent!

 

[Pierps]

@RWBeringer4x4 Sorry I just remembered while working in the shop that i never replied to your question a few pages back about whether I was running GM ram's horns. The answer is yes, at least judging by the fact that it they say "GM" on the sides. So it seems to be an issue with the crossover pipe.

 

[1Fine40]

Are you referring to the loom under my rectifier diode in the last picture? That’s the IPF headlight adapter harness for H4 halogen bulbs.

The rest of the harness is the the stock FJ40 harness. Any adapter connections to the 350 were modifications to the original harness done poorly by the PO and cleaned up by me.

The other exception is the rear harness (tail lights, fuel gauge, etc.). That was made by @Coolerman. Money well spent!

Sorry, my bad. I meant the spark plug loom, very tidy looking arrangement!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Sorry, my bad. I meant the spark plug loom, very tidy looking arrangement!

Gotchya -

Over the exhaust manifolds I used a loom by R&M (P/N: 1101-K). They make a couple options. They mount to the valve covers. Kinda spendy and the quality was so/so (particularly on the plastic parts) but they get the job done. Toward the dsitributor I just have a couple of Taylor Cable wire dividers (P/N: 42700) I didn't use the whole set.

For these to work with Ram's horns and Saginaw Power Steering, you really need 135-degree plugs. With the steering shaft where it is, a straight spark plug on cylinder 5 conflicted with the shaft. Right angle plugs have the wires resting right on the exhaust manifolds. 135 degree plugs allowed me to clear the manifold and dodge the steering shaft.

 

[1Fine40]

Gracias! Good to know...I just got my ramshorns ceramic coated to help keep the heat down, but it is still mighty hot!! How about the boots? What product is that you put on the plug ends to protect from heat??

Cheers!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Gracias! Good to know...I just got my ramshorns ceramic coated to help keep the heat down, but it is still mighty hot!! How about the boots? What product is that you put on the plug ends to protect from heat??

Cheers!

I cleaned/painted my Ram's Horns with Seymour Paint's Ultra High-Temperature "Cast Blast." Having now heat cycled them a few times, I'll admit I'm very surprised the paint stayed attached. I cleaned the metal well, sprayed it on, let it dry for two days, then baked the manifolds on my gas BBQ Grill at ~4-500 degrees for and hour, then let them cool. Doesn't do anything to mitigate heat but I figured it might keep them looking nice longer. I really just expected the paint to burn off but so far it has held up. It's supposed to tolerate ~1200 degrees. I'd used VHT paint that claimed the same tolerance in the past on some other parts (on a grill) and it burned off at about 500 degrees.

Those boots are stupidly expensive for what they are too, but with the close proximity to the exhaust manifolds I was worried my plug wires would burn. I got the boots from Summit Racing (Summit brand). P/N: 350140.

All in all - don't be dumb/fancy like me. Use OEM/Stock routing and run the plugs down and under the Ram's Horns and save yourself $100.

 

[pb4ugo]

X2 on running the wires from below the ramshorns. I've been running them that way ever since I installed a SBC. I custom cut mine and use 90* boots. Once they are installed they will never be in the way of any future repairs.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

X2 on running the wires from below the ramshorns. I've been running them that way ever since I installed a SBC. I custom cut mine and use 90* boots. Once they are installed they will never be in the way of any future repairs.

But my engine looks so sexy

For me, form usually follows function (not in this case). This was mostly an experiment. I had them run below the rams horns on my 283 and while not a HUGE problem, I do like the fact that they're now up, out of the way, and I don't have to go fishing for them past my hot exhaust manifolds when I have had them unhooked.

However, I will agree that it's mostly aesthetic in this case - and from a functional/financial perspective, the juice was certainly not worth the squeeze.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Well - caught a potentially major problem last night before it caused too much damage. My alternator change wire had come loose and was arcing. Luckily, it was just twilight and I hadn’t turned the garage lights on yet so I caught the spark. So far it had only melted the alternator boot.

Oddly, fixing the arc issue also somehow fixed the alternator belt squeal...

Now for the usual “one step backward.”

My power steering belt had been squealing/shuddering with the wheels at full lock one direction or another. I checked yesterday, found it pretty loose, so I tightened it up a bit.

As a “thank you” today when I tried to take the truck out to run some errands, it flipped the belt inside out and threw it entirely.

I put it back on the pulleys a couple times in the driveway, but it seems like the flip damaged the belt, as it would immediately start to slide out of the track.

So, off to find a new v belt...

Any opinions on brands of V-belt to use that don’t suck? I’m currently just running some cheapo Advance Auto “Drive Works” belts...

Of greater concern is I also found some play in the new power steering pump...

A little “in and out” play is normal but this now seems to have some radial “wobble” that I don’t remember being there before...

Is it possible I bent the pump shaft when tightening the belt? I am fairly confident I didn’t overtighten...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Well, new belts (Dayco Top Cogs instead of bargain bin) and I'm a little happier. They definitely sit more properly in the pulley grooves. Unfortunately they didn't have one in 43" for the Alternator/Water Pump/Crank belt - so I think it's a touch loose. I don't get a belt squeal until there is a load on the alternator. I was driving around just fine until I turned the headlights on, then I started getting a squeal when I accelerate. I'll probably try to go another 1/2" shorter as I'm maxing out the adjustment right now.

Power steering is a bit of a different story as I figured out why it chucked the previous belt. At full lock (left or right) when the box hits its internal stops, my power steering pump actually STALLS. The pulley stops moving entirely. Naturally, the belt is run off the crank and tries to keep going, so it "shudders" and tries to throw itself off the power steering pump.

I've got the physical steering stops on the knuckles set such that they hit about 1/8-1/4 turn before the box runs out of travel, but the steering is so strong it's almost effortless to just push the truck sideways on its springs until the steering pump seizes.

@reddingcruiser - since you're now my unofficial personal advisor - any thoughts here? Is this pump behavior normal? If so, how do I avoid it?

Otherwise, the spin I took today was pretty successful...

- steering is dialed in. Steering wheel (finally) straight
- Oil pressure, hot, is about 14psi at idle (a little lower than I'd like, but apparently acceptable?) and it climbs rapidly at cruise to around 55-60psi
- Temperature runs around 185 at cruise, and creeps up to around 200 at idle. I'll need to see how this fares in hotter temperatures.
- Since the transmission tunnel is out of the truck, I can confirm that the Throw-out bearing is still clear of the pressure plate
- No significant or noticeable leaks

Things that still need attention:

- Alternator squeal under higher electrical load - figure out if this is a loose belt or an alt bearing
- Power steering issue above
- Minor Heat-Soak on the starter. Doesn't fail to start hot, but does crank slowly and "click"
- Transmission input shaft is noisy - probably just going to live with this as it seems to work ok
- Obnoxiously loud, rattly PCV valve (I did not know this could be a thing) - but it works so I'll live with it
- Clunky locker/rear diff - again, annoying but I think I'll live with it.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I'm still enjoying this thread!

 

[Vae Victus]

Same

 

[reddingcruiser]

Well, new belts (Dayco Top Cogs instead of bargain bin) and I'm a little happier. They definitely sit more properly in the pulley grooves. Unfortunately they didn't have one in 43" for the Alternator/Water Pump/Crank belt - so I think it's a touch loose. I don't get a belt squeal until there is a load on the alternator. I was driving around just fine until I turned the headlights on, then I started getting a squeal when I accelerate. I'll probably try to go another 1/2" shorter as I'm maxing out the adjustment right now.

Power steering is a bit of a different story as I figured out why it chucked the previous belt. At full lock (left or right) when the box hits its internal stops, my power steering pump actually STALLS. The pulley stops moving entirely. Naturally, the belt is run off the crank and tries to keep going, so it "shudders" and tries to throw itself off the power steering pump.

I've got the physical steering stops on the knuckles set such that they hit about 1/8-1/4 turn before the box runs out of travel, but the steering is so strong it's almost effortless to just push the truck sideways on its springs until the steering pump seizes.

@reddingcruiser - since you're now my unofficial personal advisor - any thoughts here? Is this pump behavior normal? If so, how do I avoid it?

Otherwise, the spin I took today was pretty successful...

- steering is dialed in. Steering wheel (finally) straight
- Oil pressure, hot, is about 14psi at idle (a little lower than I'd like, but apparently acceptable?) and it climbs rapidly at cruise to around 55-60psi
- Temperature runs around 185 at cruise, and creeps up to around 200 at idle. I'll need to see how this fares in hotter temperatures.
- Since the transmission tunnel is out of the truck, I can confirm that the Throw-out bearing is still clear of the pressure plate
- No significant or noticeable leaks

Things that still need attention:

- Alternator squeal under higher electrical load - figure out if this is a loose belt or an alt bearing
- Power steering issue above
- Minor Heat-Soak on the starter. Doesn't fail to start hot, but does crank slowly and "click"
- Transmission input shaft is noisy - probably just going to live with this as it seems to work ok
- Obnoxiously loud, rattly PCV valve (I did not know this could be a thing) - but it works so I'll live with it
- Clunky locker/rear diff - again, annoying but I think I'll live with it.

Rick,

Been traveling, but from your other recent thread it seems the P/S pump problem is intermittent, which leads me to a believe that either the pump flow valve or by-pass valve is sticking. There is debris in the system (It doesn't take much). Also, though rare, there could be an issue of compatibility between the pump and gear box. here's some info from the internet:

Pump Flow/Valve Rating: This is another aspect of the pump that varied completely by original application. The OEMs would specify what flow rating was required based on vehicle weight, steering gear piston diameter, and whether or not the pump was running a Hydro-Boost brake system. The Saginaw pump in OEM applications can be set from 2.0 on up to 4.5 GPM.

Pump Bypass Pressure: Just like the flow rating above, the OEMs would specify output pressure based on the original vehicle application and what system the pump was running. Most steering gear applications would run between 1,100-1,300 psi with heavy vehicle high demand applications on up to 1,550-1,600 psi. Rack-and-pinion steering on the other hand is generally happier at a lower operating pressure of 850-950 psi.
​

There is an OEM heat shield for the starter, and Summit and Jegs have a wrap for the starter to minimize the (common) heat soak issue.

As for the other noises, turn up the volume on the stereo or take the hard top off. Either will work wonders to reduce the noises you hear.

Is vacuum steady on the engine? It's unusual for a PCV to rattle under normal conditions.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Rick,

Been traveling, but from your other recent thread it seems the P/S pump problem is intermittent, which leads me to a believe that either the pump flow valve or by-pass valve is sticking. There is debris in the system (It doesn't take much). Also, though rare, there could be an issue of compatibility between the pump and gear box. here's some info from the internet:

Pump Flow/Valve Rating: This is another aspect of the pump that varied completely by original application. The OEMs would specify what flow rating was required based on vehicle weight, steering gear piston diameter, and whether or not the pump was running a Hydro-Boost brake system. The Saginaw pump in OEM applications can be set from 2.0 on up to 4.5 GPM.

Pump Bypass Pressure: Just like the flow rating above, the OEMs would specify output pressure based on the original vehicle application and what system the pump was running. Most steering gear applications would run between 1,100-1,300 psi with heavy vehicle high demand applications on up to 1,550-1,600 psi. Rack-and-pinion steering on the other hand is generally happier at a lower operating pressure of 850-950 psi.
​

There is an OEM heat shield for the starter, and Summit and Jegs have a wrap for the starter to minimize the (common) heat soak issue.

As for the other noises, turn up the volume on the stereo or take the hard top off. Either will work wonders to reduce the noises you hear.

Is vacuum steady on the engine? It's unusual for a PCV to rattle under normal conditions.

No problem, Dick - you're my "unofficial advisor" but I don't pay you enough to quit your day job! You just seem to have seen most of this stuff before... You and @Cdaniel (among input from many, many others) have basically built this truck.

As I mentioned in the other post, I walked outside this morning and messed with it while I was having my coffee. It has stopped seizing up, but now had a significant belt squeal - so I tightened everything up and now it works fine. You're debris theory may be well founded - maybe it "passed" the chunk. Time will tell if the issue crops back up For now - we can cross this one off the list.

Vaccum is fairly steady on the engine - it seems to float around 17-18" at idle (with vac advance connected), and idle seems to "float" a bit between 650 and 700 RPM. The PCV valve rattles rapidly, frequently, but inconsistently (sometimes it stops) and pulls HARD when I pull it and put my hand over it. it definitely seems to be doing its job.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I'm still enjoying this thread!

Same

Glad to hear you're still checking in - currently mired down in minutiae but I'll be getting into a bit of body work here shortly...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

As for the other noises, turn up the volume on the stereo or take the hard top off. Either will work wonders to reduce the noises you hear.

Forgot to mention - actually having a floor (trans hump) in the truck would probably go a long way too...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Finally got the right belts tightened up, and the truck doesn't seem to be whining/shuddering anymore.

Ended up running Dayco Top Cog in 43" (P/N: 15430) for the Alternator/Water Pump/Crank and Dayco Top Cog 37" (P/N: 15370) for the power steering pump. Lesson learned: A "V-belt is not a V-belt." The DriveWorks brand belts I had (about $5 each were far more stretchy and sat proud of the top of the pulley just slightly (about 0.5" wide). The Dayco's are 0.44" wide, and ride level with the pulleys. At about $12 each they still didn't break the bank.

After that I took it out for a nice long 45 mile, 1 hour drive down some highways at 50-60mph and a little around town. I filled up the tank before and after. The truck returned about 13.1MPG - which is almost exactly what it was when I was running the (67 cubic inch smaller) 283 so I'll call it a small win. Watching the gas gauge drop 1/4 tank in 45 miles is a weird feeling by modern standards!

After I got back I took a look at the spark plugs - no signs of fouling yet - good white insulator (with a bit of tan starting to creep in) and just a touch of ash/residue on the electrode. I didn't check all of them (had to make dinner) but the three I looked at didn't show signs of fouling, or running overly lean.

THINGS TO DO list just got shorter, but a few more things being added after the shakedown:
- Alternator squeal under higher electrical load - figure out if this is a loose belt or an alt bearing
- Power steering issue above (for now)
- Clunky locker/rear diff - again, annoying but I think I'll live with it. (living with it unless it gets worse)
- Transmission input shaft is noisy - probably just going to live with this as it seems to work ok (living with it unless it gets worse)
- Minor Heat-Soak on the starter. Doesn't fail to start hot, but does crank slowly and "click." Update: This slow-cranked and BARELY started after the 45mi run, so this needs addressed. I'll probably just wrap it in one of the velcro heat shields
- Obnoxiously loud, rattly PCV valve
- Just discovered - all the vacuum plugs on my carb are cracking. I imagine this is an issue of heat, not age (only 3 years old). Easy fix, but investigating what my options are for "high temp" vacuum plugs. Yes...I know, silicon hose with a bolt rammed in it would probably outlive me. I'm wondering if this could somehow be causing the weird "slurping" rattle coming from the PCV at idle

- Oddly, I'm collecting what appears to be oil on the underside of my air cleaner, and maybe a bit on the back of my intake by the distributor - only place I can think it might be coming from is the breather, but that should be sucking air IN, not blowing air out...

 

[mtquivr]

I ran into the same problem with Auto Zone vacuum plugs cracking. I bought an assortment of silicone plugs and solved that problem. I even used them on the brake bleeders.