Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota (3 Viewers)

[Cdaniel]

If you have a next time, pulling the big power wire from the HEI cap will stop it in its tracks.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

If you have a next time, pulling the big power wire from the HEI cap will stop it in its tracks.

I actually did that, eventually but by then it was hot enough that it kept dieseling - just switching from a smooth idle to the standard “dieseling” sputter. It really did not want to die!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Well - there’s a big gaping hole in my garage. The 40 is off to the exhaust shop. While I enjoy DIY, this shop is 2 miles from my house and quoted me $300 to do it - seemed like money well spent. Plus, I could drive there on just the y pipe

In the meantime, I started stripping the transmission hump. At some point the truck was coated the whole underside in rubberized undercoat which is in varying states of decay - but it was still QUITE well adhered to the transmission tunnel.

The wire wheel just smears melted rubber around, but I found that paint stripper, followed by about an hour of scraping with my cheapo oscillating tool made good headway.

After the majority of the gunk was removed, another hour with the wire wheel got it here.

Then I started on the top - basically going through the same process with the asphalt residue - although paint stripper isn’t as effective.

Once clean, this will get a filler coat to clean up the welding and rust pits.

Next up will be a decision on what to do for paint. I’m at a bit of an impasse as I have a LONG way to go before I paint anything else on the truck. Buying some good automotive paint just to have it sit open for years seems like a waste. So my options are:

1. Get a quart of epoxy primer, coat it, and run it “primer gray” until it’s time to paint the truck.

2. Same as above, but coat in Duplicolor to make it look semi-presentable.

3. Go whole hog, buy a good single stage and epoxy primer and paint. Then find enough other panels to fix and paint before the remaining expensive paint goes bad.

I’m leaning toward just leaving it in epoxy for now - but I’ve heard this may actually not seal it against moisture. Anyone have experience here?

 

[reddingcruiser]

Throw a coat of rattle can primer and paint until your ready to do everything. It will strip easy and you'll only have to drag out the expensive stuff once.

Nice to see the progress you've made since I last saw you. Sometimes you just gotta get in and git 'er done. Just in time for summer.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Throw a coat of rattle can primer and paint until your ready to do everything. It will strip easy and you'll only have to drag out the expensive stuff once.

Nice to see the progress you've made since I last saw you. Sometimes you just gotta get in and git 'er done. Just in time for summer.

Thanks! Looks like you're back from your travels and working toward Rubithon! I'm running at full tilt to get it driveable - would love to at least grab some groceries or take it mountain biking this summer. There's definitely a few kinks to work out yet.

1. Electric choke high-idle is doing weird things - if it's on high idle and I try to kick it down, the revs increase and STAY increased. ie: if it's high idling at 1500RPM and I kick it down, instead of kicking down, it starts idling at 2200 RPM. Eventually it kicks but it's very odd behavior if I try to kick it down too early.

2. Lower radiator hose at the water pump keeps randomly and inexplicably springing leaks

3. Yet TBD driveline vibration. driveshaft angles are pretty straight, could be a balance issue (shop said it was about 1/2oz off). It could also be that the tires sat in one spot for 3 years are are flat spotted - although they're radials so should be resistant to this.

4. Need to install new rectified diode in Alternator sense wire to prevent engine run-on.

I'm sure there will be more to tweak and tune once I can actually hear what the engines doing. I just tried to get it "good enough," for now. Can't wait to get it back!

As for rattle can primer - my only concern is that it won't block moisture, which, in turn, will promote rust underneath. It may be a LONG time before I'm ready for paint. That's why I was considering just ponying up for a 2K Epoxy quart now. I have a spray gun someone gave me kicking around here somewhere...

 

[reddingcruiser]

Oh, the joy of carburetors! I wish I had words of wisdom for you but I haven't really touched one in decades.

Is the radiator inlet polished or a rough casting? If it's a rough casting, you may have to pull the water pump and dress/smooth the inlet it up a little, it sounds like coolant may be able to eventually find a path through the surface irregularities and get out. Most new vehicles use a machined connection (like the LS engines) to prevent this issue. Castings on aftermarket products are not what they used to be.

If a few long drives on some hot days to 'round out' the tires doesn't calm the vibration it may be worth having the driveline and/or tires rebalanced.

Otherwise, it sounds like some typical maiden voyage issues to resolve. Shouldn't be long before these are all behind you and you'll having fun.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Oh, the joy of carburetors! I wish I had words of wisdom for you but I haven't really touched one in decades.

Is the radiator inlet polished or a rough casting? If it's a rough casting, you may have to pull the water pump and dress/smooth the inlet it up a little, it sounds like coolant may be able to eventually find a path through the surface irregularities and get out. Most new vehicles use a machined connection (like the LS engines) to prevent this issue. Castings on aftermarket products are not what they used to be.

If a few long drives on some hot days to 'round out' the tires doesn't calm the vibration it may be worth having the driveline and/or tires rebalanced.

Otherwise, it sounds like some typical maiden voyage issues to resolve. Shouldn't be long before these are all behind you and you'll having fun.

Yep! Definitely nothing insurmountable.

The choke is probably an adjustment thing. The high idle is probably way high from break in, and I have no idea what the electric chokes timing looks like.

The weird thing is that the idle stays up - like the primaries are binding open with the choke kick down.

The casting on the pump was rough (not machined) - and painted - but there weren’t any bad ridges that I recall. Paint and rough castings are a bad combination for a long term seal so you very well may be right.

That connection is also the one place with a hose clamp that is VERY tough to get at behind the alternator bracket so I may just not have been able to get enough torque on it.

The radiator just has water in it right now for this exact reason - I figured there would be leaks and kinks to work out. It’s due for another oil change after a few more compression brake runs to finish seating the rings. Figured I’d switch to antifreeze then if I can get it resolved.

 

[Vae Victus]

Saw someone using a Bug and Tar remover on the sound deadening/underliner gunk.

Nice progress!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Saw someone using a Bug and Tar remover on the sound deadening/underliner gunk.

Nice progress!

That was me!

Worked like a charm just didn’t post over in this thread.

 

[Vae Victus]

That's funny. That's why the hump looked so familiar!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

That's funny. That's why the hump looked so familiar!

Not too many others out there at are this uniquely destroyed haha.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Got the truck back from the exhaust shop today - I’m not really sure if I should be laughing or crying...

On the plus side, it’s much quieter -



The installation looks very clean, as well. Unfortunately, the routing is a far cry from what we discussed...

The good:

I really like the execution of the “jog” around the oil filter - plenty of access to get the filter down and not dump oil all over the pipe.

The bad:

We’d discussed going up and over the torque tube, and it wound up going under, which puts it a touch below the frame rail...

Maybe going over just wound up not being an option (though I’ve seen this done) but, he then went outboard with it and through inside the rear shock mount (as opposed to down the frame rail as discussed)

This, in itself, is also no big deal except there’s no way I’d be able to mount the auxiliary tank again. I had been leaning away from putting the aux tank back in (it’s a bad design and probably unnecessary for my use) so again, probably a non-issue.

It exits behind the rear wheel, but we had also discussed a 45-degree turn-down and it goes straight out...

We’d also discussed a second flange near the muffler so I could drop the middle section of pipe out if need be for maintenance/if I crushed it. It wound up one solid, welded run.

In short - it’s not bad at all, it’s just also not what we discussed...I’m not sure it’s bad enough to ask them to do it over, though I feel like I’m letting them get away with murder...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Now that I can hear the engine and transmission - I still have some issues to be addressed:

1. Unfortunately, I’m still getting noise from the clutch/trans when in neutral which, given the new clutch/pilot/throw out bearing, implies that my trans input bearing is, indeed, grumbling a bit. I’m going to check the throw out bearing again to ensure it’s not riding the pressure plate but it seems to be working fine. It’s much quieter than it used to be (no “chugging”) so I may be interpreting normal neutral rotational noise as a problem...maybe I wouldn’t hear it if the trans tunnel was installed?

2. I still get a loud “clunk” when shifting gears/engaging and disengaging the clutch under load. I had thought this was a result of my loose, damaged transfercase with half-eaten spacers allowing the gears to shift and knock against the case, but with everything rebuilt, the hammering persists...could this just be the locker in the rear binding up with the application of torque?

 

[1Fine40]

Lockers do add another dimension to knocking and noise...especially the lunch box kind or even Detroits...ARBs on the other hand are
silent except when engaging or disengaging. I get a clunk with every shift and it started in earnest after installing the aussie locker in the back (lunchbox locker..) Take off from a stop, push in the clutch, click clack, let out the clutch click pop, unless the locker happens to be sitting on a dog tooth and then it is more of a bang! You get used to it or you get rid of it and stay open or install an ARB! I will say that keeping the air pressure exactly the same between LR and RR is critical with any locker...it just helps them to have better manners!
HTH..

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Lockers do add another dimension to knocking and noise...especially the lunch box kind or even Detroits...ARBs on the other hand are
silent except when engaging or disengaging. I get a clunk with every shift and it started in earnest after installing the aussie locker in the back (lunchbox locker..) Take off from a stop, push in the clutch, click clack, let out the clutch click pop, unless the locker happens to be sitting on a dog tooth and then it is more of a bang! You get used to it or you get rid of it and stay open or install an ARB! I will say that keeping the air pressure exactly the same between LR and RR is critical with any locker...it just helps them to have better manners!
HTH..

Yes, I have an Aussie locker in the rear as well, and about 80% of the time I don't know it's there. Good tip on the tire pressure, I'll have to check that. I definitely hear it ratcheting in tight turns, but as long as I play the clutch carefully I can keep it from binding up. I definitely get a loud "clunk" (I can both hear it and feel it) when I clutch in and clutch out - fingers crossed, it's just the locker and I'm not just hammering a (third) transfercase.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Rick,
While it's not what you asked for, the guy did a nice, clean job on the exhaust. Everything else is looking really nice!

Long range tanks are over-rated unless you are into expedition travel or live in CA and go across the border for cheap gas. I had one and took it out to save weight (about 150 - 170 pounds - full). You probably won't miss it.

"Clunking" could be from the rear end as part of normal wear and tear. Either a worn locker or too much backlash. Also worth considering - excessively worn carrier bearings that are allowing the carrier to move laterally when load is applied. The last item will definitely cause a clunk but can be easily checked by pulling the rear cover and using a bar to see if the carrier can be moved side to side (it shouldn't)

Back to the exhaust, there is definitely room to do it the way you wanted. IMHO, I would ask him to make the change and kill two birds with one stone; move the pipe over the tube and add a flange for servicing. There's PLENTY of room to go over the torque tube, in fact, there's room to go down both sides of the engine and transmission AND over the tube. While I no longer have the tube in it's original location, you can see the remnants on the D/S frame rail.

Not the best picture, but he can see there is plenty of room to get it right and stay above the bottom of the frame rail.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Rick,
While it's not what you asked for, the guy did a nice, clean job on the exhaust. Everything else is looking really nice!

Long range tanks are over-rated unless you are into expedition travel or live in CA and go across the border for cheap gas. I had one and took it out to save weight (about 150 - 170 pounds - full). You probably won't miss it.

"Clunking" could be from the rear end as part of normal wear and tear. Either a worn locker or too much backlash. Also worth considering - excessively worn carrier bearings that are allowing the carrier to move laterally when load is applied. The last item will definitely cause a clunk but can be easily checked by pulling the rear cover and using a bar to see if the carrier can be moved side to side (it shouldn't)

Back to the exhaust, there is definitely room to do it the way you wanted. IMHO, I would ask him to make the change and kill two birds with one stone; move the pipe over the tube and add a flange for servicing. There's PLENTY of room to go over the torque tube, in fact, there's room to go down both sides of the engine and transmission AND over the tube. While I no longer have the tube in it's original location, you can see the remnants on the D/S frame rail.

Not the best picture, but he can see there is plenty of room to get it right and stay above the bottom of the frame rail.

View attachment 1715904

Yes, I’m nit-picking because for the amount of off-road this truck will likely see, the chances of my exhaust being crushed and the need for an aux tank are nearly non existent. Really - it’s a nice clean exhaust run, and I’m happy with the sound.

My only complaint is that we discussed a plan and he didn’t stick to it. I want to complain for that reason alone but I think I’ll just live with it. It’s not a hill I’m willing to die on....

I popped a new rectifier diode in the sense strand of the alternator tonight -

It got soldered, heat-shrinked, and taped.

Then, like clockwork, the Clustertruck stayed true to its name. I now have a NASTY belt squeal at the alternator that literally wasn’t there this morning. It’s silent at idle but it shows up the second you rev it. Then it goes away again until it’s allowed to go back to idle. It JUST squeals when you jump off idle.

The belt seems pretty square on the pulleys. I pulled the belt, cleaned the pulleys with parts cleaner, wiped down the belt, no luck.

Spinning the alternator by hand, there’s a definite faint “squeak” when rotating - but no play in the pulled. The alternator cooling fan “disk” definitely has a wobble to it though...

This alternator never rode square on the 283 - I’m wondering if the bearing is starting to quit after only about 500 miles because it had been yanked sideways on the 283.

More investigation tomorrow...

 

[reddingcruiser]

Now you know one of the reasons why auto manufacturers switched to serpentine belts. Much less likely to squeal..

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Now you know one of the reasons why auto manufacturers switched to serpentine belts. Much less likely to squeal..

Strangely - it seems to come and go based on alternator load - if the truck has been turned on/off several times in short succession (drained battery) it squeals. It squeals on start up and when reeved from idle - it seems to go away the longer the truck runs.

"Clunking" could be from the rear end as part of normal wear and tear. Either a worn locker or too much backlash. Also worth considering - excessively worn carrier bearings that are allowing the carrier to move laterally when load is applied. The last item will definitely cause a clunk but can be easily checked by pulling the rear cover and using a bar to see if the carrier can be moved side to side (it shouldn't)

I didn’t get much further into investigating the clunk - if the trans and transfer are in neutral I can rotate the rear driveshaft a little over 1/8 turn before the differential catches and prevents further rotation. With the hubs locked, the front driveshaft rotates considerably less than the rear but still rotates quite a bit.

The rear makes a very similar sounding “clunk” when done by hand, the front is a quieter “landing.”

So there’s definitely added slop in the rear - is that just the nature of an Aussie locker, perhaps? Everything looked good and spac’d our acceptably a couple years (500mi) ago when I installed the locker. So I don’t expect there should be a TON of wear.

Maybe the obnoxious clunking every time I hit the clutch is just the nature of the beast.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Sometimes it just wants to be a Cruiser?