The birf job -

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tucker74

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So I'm off again on another weekend project, and thought some of you might like to come along for the ride. So to start off I did what only seemed logical - pulled the other truck out of the garage so I'd have a getaway car.....(just really wanted to post a pic of my beast)

The_40.jpg


Then the tools came out, when I started pulling the spindle bolts guess what started oozing out the lower threads? You guessed it - diff soup (anyone want a bowl)

birf_1.jpg


Yuck - Pitbull might want to re-thing his little experiment, the cause of my popping was the drivers side axle seal - here's a couple more...

birf_2.jpg

Driver_axle.jpg


Lucky for me the birf was still ok in all that muck - here she rests (waiting for a turn in the overflowing parts sink!)

Driver.jpg


The seal on the passenger side was still good - so it wasn't nearly as interesting. I spent the next four hours of so with thick rubber gloves on and ended up with this (bet you front end isn't this clean tonight).

Clean_parts.jpg


So here's where day one ended - my poor truck stranded on jack stands...
driver...

After_driver.jpg


Passenger....

After_pass.jpg


and the birfields soaking in the corner...

birf_soak.jpg


and a big pile of stuff waiting for me in the morning.

Lots_o_stuff.jpg


Guess I don't get to put that expensive Amsoil in the front diff yet - I'll have to go pick up some Delo in the morning to flush it with for a few weeks. More to come...
 
nice pics, I'll be doing this soon :rolleyes:


you are way to organized :slap:
 
Hey Tucker74, where do you live I would be happy to come over and let you help me do mine :D
 
Organized isn't the word, I was thinking analized. Dude, you have taken organization to a new level.
 
Excelent photos,

How do you plan to check the trunion pre-load? I saw the steering arms still hooked up. ??? Remember to check the lower studs to make sure they are tight.

Junk, here is one that is not quite as organized :flipoff2:
 
Cool pics - very clean and orderly. If I see enough of these, I'll figure it out one day! I see that you had to buy a coffee maker to do the work :D ;)

Cheers, Hugh
 
Finally all finished - good lord that's a lot of work to replace a couple of seals and gaskets....I guess there were bearings too. Didn't get any pictures today - battery was dead on the camera (and my hands were pretty coated in grease anyway). It all went back together without a hitch, even got the drive shafts in the diff on the first try...both sides (am I just lucky?). If I can find my battery charger I'll post some completed pics of the birfs (I didn't even know what everything looked like before under all that grunge (142K)).

C'dan - didn't worry about the trunion pre-load, just put the same shims back where they were and torqued to spec (can't do much about the preload anyway...especially on a Sunday). Followed the write-up Morgan Fletcher did in the tech section - it was the only one that detailed removing the knuckles and replacing trunions.

This job is NOT hard (technically) - physically is an entirely different story, guess it depends how well you clean everything (that was where the time was spent).

Tucker
 
What did you use to clean everything with (aside from elbow grease)?

Cheers, Hugh
 
What was your total work time? Being that you're as organized as your pics demonstrate, can you breakdown the length of time it took you to do the job? I've been thinking about tackling this and right now am thinking about doing 1 side at a time. Nice Pics.

Been contemplating this project ever since I bought my LC 5mths ago. I am starting to "collect/procure" everything I'll need. Hopefully, sometime within the next 9000 miles I'll be able to tackle this (It should be summer and warmer by then).


I had some nice impulse buys at Sears this weekend. New circular saw, torque wrench, creeper, and jack/jack stand set. I just need to pull the trigger and call CDan up for some parts. It was a good LC weekend, as I was able to wash, clay, polish, and wax her for the first time since getting her. :beer: :beer:
 
Tucker74,

Any troubled spots you had in the process ??? any help would be appreciated..looks like i will be doing the birfields in a couple weeks.
 
I used some cheap parts cleaner I picked up at Wal-Mart to clean everything - it was the (purple) biodegradable stuff, any brand will do as long as you make sure it has butoxylethanol and sodium metasilicate as main ingredients.

For anyone thinking about doing this job I would read THIS tech article very closely - even though it was a FJ62 w/ lockouts it was the most helpful. Draken, I spent about 6 hours on Sat. breaking everything down and cleaning - and about 5 more Sunday putting it all back together. I did replace all the bearings while I was there - but cleaning yours up will probably take as long as removing/installing new races. I had planned on taking two days though and was being very carful and taking my time.

I had been planning this job for a couple of months and slowly accumulating the tools and parts. The only thing that took me by surprise was the cost of all the lubricants - I spent over $100 on all the grease and diff fluid (keep in mind I went with full synthetics (Amsiol, Redline, Mobil1) and did both diffs and transfer too).

To make this job as easy as possible - buy a 54mm socket, seal puller, long brass drift, and a fish scale. I made a tool to seat the axle seal w/ a 2"x1/2" washer on a long bolt w/ two nuts - total cost $2 (you're gonna need something here - trust me). I didn't run in to any major problems anywhere - but I had torn everything down to the spindles back in October when I did a brake job, so I knew what to expect.

Tucker
 
Tucker, kudos to you. Dan's photo looks more familiar to me than yours! By the way, are you mixing M1 and amsoil grease?

I agree with you about Morgan's write up being the best to follow at the knuckle stage. Take a look at the following which I posted a while ago. I am in the process of combining it with Jim and Morgan's write up to make a FAQ so any comments are appreciated.

Semlin


Here is my write up on the knuckle housing/bearing part of the job for anyone's comments or critique... this write up assumes you do not pull the tie rods and leave it with original preload. (Anyone who wants to write up the tie rod removal, that would be great, and the same goes for anyone wanting to write up dissassembling the birfs) we pick it up after the spindle has been removed:

-remove the bolt holding abs sensor on top of the knuckle housing (12mm) and lay the sensor out of the way propped against the caliper.

-unscrew the retaining plates that hold the inner wiper seals to the knuckle housing (10mm). peel away the felt, rubber and metal rings from the housing. You will need a wrench to access some of the bolts.

-remove the two bolts (17 mm) holding the upper bearing housing to the knuckle. The bearing housing can now be gently pried off. Be careful of the shim, which varies in thickness between trucks. If you encounter difficulties, try using two flat head screw drivers at the same time at either end so that it lifts off evenly.

-loosen but don't remove the 4 nuts (17 mm)that attach the lower control arm/bearing housing to the knuckle (consult FSM and remove the tie rod if you plan to check the preload)

-tap the studs or the housing with a brass hammer to loosen the cone washers.

-remove the nuts, washers and cone washers, clean for reuse. If any studs come loose, remove and reinstall them using lock tight during reassembly.

-Clean all grease off the machined surfaces and out of the thread holes on both bearing housings

-pry the control arm away from the knuckle housing

-slide the outer knuckle housing off taking care to catch the bearings if they fall out (if you plan to reuse). label any bearings you might reuse. Replace any you drop unless it is a very soft landing. clean the housing taking care to clean the mating face for the wiper seals which may be rusty (a flat chisel will clean away most of the rust).

-if you have not already done so, remove the birfield now. Line the flat mark in the housing to the top of the knuckle housing and slide it out.

-pull out the inner oil seal

- after removing the birfield and the old inner oil seal shine a flashlight into the axle housing and look around. There should be nothing visible loose in the housing and there should be an index ring about 2 inches from the oil seal flush against the inner lip of the machined surface (it may look like part of the housing). This ring can occasionally come loose. If it has it will likely be lying in the housing and you will need to reseat it somehow (there are posts on this).

-clean the upper and lower bearings and inspect checking the rollers carefully for scoring and any signs of damage or discolouration to the housing. If you are satisfied to reuse them, thoroughly clean them and repack with fresh grease. don't forget the labels

-if you are not reusing bearings, remove the races from the inner knuckle housing. use a brass hammer and a long brass drift threaded into the housing from the hole for the top bearing to remove the lower race and vice versa. There are prominent slots in the knuckle housing around the races to expose a surface to strike the races for removal.

-if using new bearings, replace the races using the old races as a guide to knock them in. Make sure the races taper outward. make sure you match the new races to the new bearings they came with. Pack the new bearings with moly grease.

-clean the inner and outer knuckle housings and remove all grease, including grease in all thread holes.

-clean and repack the birfield. If you don't plan to disassemble but have time then, after cleaning as best you can, drill two 1.5" holes in a piece of plywood and drop the birfields into the holes so the bowls face up then fill them with varsol and allow them to soak overnight.

-seat the inner oil seal. A big rubber mallet and a 3x3 block of wood with a face shaved to roughly the same size as the seal is the best way we found to seat it. A piece of 1.5" abs pipe will also work if you have a steady hand and cut both ends square. The seal does not seat flush in the housing but actually goes a little further in leaving a slight lip.

-slide the wiper seal kit over the inner knuckle ready for seating. starting with closest to the centre of the truck, the order is felt seal, rubber seal with ridge facing towards the differential, metal seal.

-coat the outside of the inner and inside of the outer knuckle housing with moly grease.

-insert the new upper bearing in its race, and balance the lower bearing inside the outer knuckle housing. Slide the outer knuckle housing over the inner housing lining up the bearings to the holes.

-lightly grease the machined surface of the upper bearing housing, and install using the shim. Before installing take care to make sure hole in outer knuckle is lined up with the bearing by moving the knuckle housing. Don't tighten all the way until you have lined up the lower bearing and are sure it is lined up..

-lightly grease the machined surface of the lower bearing housing, and install. Press upwards until you can fasten two diagnoally opposite bolts onto the studs to secure. check that bearing is lined up by reaching finger down from inside the inner knuckle to feel the centre dimple in the bearing housing. Tighten bolts taking care to check bearing is lined up. Place cone washers and washers on the other two studs and tighten. Remove the first two bolts, install cone washers and washers and replace. Use locktite on any studs that came apart during removal.

-torque bolts and nuts on upper and lower bearing housings to FSM specifications (check the torque again after initial test drive and again a week after the job)

-grease inside of inner knuckle housing, without getting grease on inner oil seal.

-insert birfield with flat mark on birfeld bell housing at the top until bell seats all the way into knuckle. Be patient. This can take a few tries.

-clean grease off abs sensor and replace.

-install the two overlapping retaining plates that hold the wiper seal in place. Take care that all the bolts pass through the holes in the felt seal.

-when installing the spindle, check inside the shaft at the brass bushing. Newer versions have a roller bearing inside the spindle here which needs to be cleaned and greased in situ before assembly.
 
For anyone that has never done this the only advice that I can give in addition to anything you will read here or on the tech pages is to buy more than the two necessary inner axle seals (one for each side). It's a kinda nervous, sweaty palm feeling you get when you realise your truck is in pieces in your garage/driveway and you are carefully tapping in a $5 seal. Having an extra one or two of these in case you bugger one up would be some cheap insurance.
 
quote: "I had some nice impulse buys at Sears this weekend. New circular saw, torque wrench, creeper, and jack/jack stand set. "

Draken:
I'll keep the circular saw in mind if I ever have to do mine.
This to use when one gets *really* frustrated, I take it?
:D
Eric
 
semlin - I read your write-up last week (and had a hard copy on hand in the garage) - really great stuff, much appreciated. I didn't mix the grease - I used the Redline CV-2 (high temp) in the wheel bearings and M1 in the birf and trunion bearings. I wanted the Amsoil grease (both types) - but couldn't source it locally. I used the Amosoil syn. gear lube (80W-90) in the axles (only rear for now - flushing the front for a couple of weeks w/ cheap stuff) and Redline MT-90 (75W-90) in the transfer case. I spent a lot of time researching the best grease/oil to use - and then got the best I could find locally (hence the assortment of brands).

Tucker

BTW - didn't have any trouble w/ the oil seal, the right tool makes driving it pretty easy (and used a little grease around the rubber when inserting the birfields).
 
I don't understand why the use of Redline in the wheel bearings and M1 in the birfield. It seems as though you should have reversed the use of the two greases or used Redline in both. The Redline contains "red" moly, M1 contains no moly. Normally moly is not recommended for roller type bearings because they tend to slide versus roll. Toyota specifies moly for the birfield and because they are in the same cavity the kingpins get the same grease. I don't see a recomendation for M1 in CV joints on their site.

From both websites

"Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease meets the requirements of the National Lubricating Grease institute (NLGI) performance classification GC-LB. It is recommended for automotive applications at both high and low temperatures. It is particularly suited for applications such as disc brake wheel bearings, ball and steering joints, and universal joints. It will provide outstanding bearing protection under heavy loads at any highway speed, and where moisture or condensation is a factor."


"Red Line CV-2 Grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures and pressures which occur in high-performance wheel bearings and CV-joints."
 
Phil, according to my local distributor mobil 1 makes a moly synthetic grease but I would have to order 40 tubes or tubs at a time.
 
Phil - I used the redline in the wheel bearings because a high temperature grease was specified. I had planned on using Amsoil GLC for the wheel bearings (but could not source - and parts guy suggested CV-2) and GHD for the birfield. I could not get the GHD - and the best my local AutoZone had was the M1 (I figured it would have to do - since they only make one type of grease). I would have gone w/ all Redline but I had only purchased the one tube (and it's really expensive). Hopefully it will perform well...

Tucker
 

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