Thank you Slee- PowerStop rotors and Pads

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arich

arich

Anthony. aka arich
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Installed the new Rotors and Pads today. Bedded them properly. Could not be happier.

Slee - Drivetrain - Brake Parts
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Give me a week to evaluate, I literally did them this morning.

Here is a link to the original Thread when a friend borrowed my truck and cooked the brakes. I needed rotors so I liked the idea of even slightly better stopping power and less fade for really only a little more $$ over OEM.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/544486-cooked-brakes.html

Others on this site highly recommend them.
 
RobRed said:
Yes to slots... NO to drilling.
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Many others on the Board have seemed to have great experiences with this setup. I have not heard anything negative. If you have had bad experience with Powerstop rotors then please post your experience. Rotors on my other cars are drilled from the factory. No problems.

I went with Slee's recommendation. I was simply giving Cristo at Slee a nice thumbsup for another positive experience and another good product.

I will post again with positive or negative experience and if they do crack you will certainly see it here. I didn't do it for the bling, I was looking for the best stock replacement rotors.

Thanks,
Anthony
 
I installed Slee's rear pads last weekend. Oem rotors were barely worn, passed the fingernail test for ridges.

The pads work great...thanks to Will for fast shipment.

Happy camper.;)

Steve
 
have run drilled rotors before on motorcycles and slots are just another way to dissipate the heat....I see no real difference other than cosmetics....and it does work. Run a solid rotor on a motorcycle in mountains or twisties and it will get hot and warp.....but a free floating drilled rotor wont. They will be a little nosier as the pads go over the holes......but they work as claimed.

look forward to your long term reviews....thanks for pics
 
I have the same front rotors. I have also run slotted/drilled DBA's. My only knock against drilling is how the holes can accumulate dirt. If you do a lot of muddy water crossings, you'll experience this. I always worried that dirt would later escape then foul up my pads somehow, but it never happened.. so maybe it's not worth worrying about. :meh:

If I were to run Kane Creek in Moab every weekend, or always crossing the Dirty Devil, I'd probably look for another solution. but since I'm mostly on dry stuff, or higher mountain streams that are generally pretty clean, I'm happy with the increased stopping power and less heat buildup advantages of slotted/drilled. I got over 40,000 miles on the ones on my 80 with no warping, then had them turned when I did new pads and they're still going just fine- huge upgrade from that stock setup.
 
arich said:
Many others on the Board have seemed to have great experiences with this setup. I have not heard anything negative. If you have had bad experience with Powerstop rotors then please post your experience. Rotors on my other cars are drilled from the factory. No problems.

I went with Slee's recommendation. I was simply giving Cristo at Slee a nice thumbsup for another positive experience and another good product.

I will post again with positive or negative experience and if they do crack you will certainly see it here. I didn't do it for the bling, I was looking for the best stock replacement rotors.

Thanks,
Anthony
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I've had mine on for 2 months now and very happy with stopping power and no fade. Just need to do the rears now.

Thanks Slee!
 
I have had the above rotors installed for ~30K Miles. Zero issues and they perform well. I use AXIS ULT pads from Zeckhausen, They are in need of replacement and I will use the same thing for the next go around.
 
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Just did all 4 corners with Slee's rotors and pads. Truck stops on a DIME, smooth as silk. Huge performance upgrade over OEM.

The tolerances between the rotor and caliper are TIGHT though...anyone else running this setup have this tight of a fit?
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Yes they are very tight on initial install. I've never had to open the brake bleeders to get the pads over the rotors but some careful patients helps. I use a piece of wood to compress the pistons. Doing my second set of pads today ~35k on the first set, rotors look fine. I still like the setup and would do it again. I might try the Powerstop pads the next go around but I really to like the Axis as well.
 
jonharis said:
Yes they are very tight on initial install. I've never had to open the brake bleeders to get the pads over the rotors but some careful patients helps. I use a piece of wood to compress the pistons. Doing my second set of pads today ~35k on the first set, rotors look fine. I still like the setup and would do it again. I might try the Powerstop pads the next go around but I really to like the Axis as well.
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Awesome, thanks. I can't tell that they are rubbing anywhere, just didn't realize that they would be that tight (of course, i never thought to check out the OEM setup).
 
bamabrock said:
are those the same rotors and pads as being sold on ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/29070913246...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_6381wt_1271
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The eBay ad lists those rotors as "Kinetic" and the pads as "PowerStop". Now who knows if the rotors are the same, my PowerStops came marked "Made in China". I can tell you the rotors in the ad are stock photos, and not the specific LC rotors. That price on eBay however is damn good, maybe too good to be true. I paid $400 shipped for my PowerStop kit.

I upgraded a month ago to the PowerStop kit on our four corners with PowerStop ceramic brake pads. The breaking power is night and day, WAY better. I was starting to get a little worried with all the added weight/armor and 35 tires. The added braking power is VERY welcomed.
 
ntsaint said:
Just did all 4 corners with Slee's rotors and pads. Truck stops on a DIME, smooth as silk. Huge performance upgrade over OEM...
Click to expand...

Not trying to doubt your claims, but anytime you compare old, used-up equipment to brand new, of course brand new will perform better. I'd like to see a comparo between NEW OEM set up vs NEW Slee's.

By the way, I do 100% agree on pads affecting braking. Back in my race days, different pads could have meant a race with no incidents, or doing the dust cloud disappearing trick.

Me, personally, I use blanks (Autozone Duralast are great, with a 2 year warranty, or Brembo, or OEM) and good set of pads. I haven't tried Axxis Ultimates (Now under "PBR") on the 100, but I'll try it next time. They used to be my favorite on the street cars. Though they dust like crazy.

Last thing, one guy above mentioned motorcycle rotors. This does not apply here. Most motorcycle rotors are NOT vented like most auto rotors are. Therefore, they need the holes for ventilation.
 
Agree. You can not compare old worn brakes to brand new disks and pads fairly. I would say the actuall difference is fairly modest. I think modulation is better (probably more due to the pads) there is less fade if you are on them all the time (disks) but overall stopping power is not appreciably different from what I could tell.
 
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