Testing an Aisin hub rebuild.

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Should I be able to turn the wheel (via the rotor) when I have the locking hub in "lock" and the front wheels are both off the ground on jackstands ? I didn't think I should, but after I re-installed the driver's side hub after rebuilding it, going from "lock" to unlock didnt change my ability to turn the wheel by hand (I can turn it using the same amount of force no matter what position the hub is in.

Did I do something wrong or is this correct ? What is the best way to test re-installation of the hub before I put the tires back on and lower it to the ground again?
 
I would do some homework on how a differential works and then re-evaluate
 
Since the passenger side front axle was dis-assembled, I had a help turn the driver's side wheel in "free" and "lock" while I looked down the passenger side axle shaft to ensure the gears were turning when they should when locked and they did.


I can't do this test with the passenger side when I get it set up because the driver's side will be reassembled. Any suggestions on how to test the passenger side hub ?
 
What I think cruisermatt is trying to say is that with an open differential you will be able to spin each wheel/rotor/axle regardless whether the hubs are locked or unlocked. All the hub is doing is locking the rotor to the axle, it is not locking the entire system up (rotor to axle to other axle to front drive line).

If you had a front locker on your front differential and it was in the locked position, with passenger side wheel on the ground, you would not be able to turn the driver side wheel if the hub is locked because the locked diff would now make it necessary to turn the other axle as well, which you wont be able to do because its still on the ground.

I hope this makes sense, maybe someone can clean up my explanation better. Its still early in the morning for me.
 
What I think cruisermatt is trying to say is that with an open differential you will be able to spin each wheel/rotor/axle regardless whether the hubs are locked or unlocked. All the hub is doing is locking the rotor to the axle, it is not locking the entire system up (rotor to axle to other axle to front drive line).

If you had a front locker on your front differential and it was in the locked position, with passenger side wheel on the ground, you would not be able to turn the driver side wheel if the hub is locked because the locked diff would now make it necessary to turn the other axle as well, which you wont be able to do because its still on the ground.

I hope this makes sense, maybe someone can clean up my explanation better. Its still early in the morning for me.


Thanks for the explanation, much appreciated. I understood that the diff allows the wheels to turn at different speeds, but I still thought that simply locking the weight of the passenger side axle to the wheel would make it such that more energy would need to be used to rotate the rotor/wheel by hand.

So what would you suggest I do to test the passenger side (with the drivers side axle already rebuilt)?

Thanks again for your help.
 
When I did the hubs and rotors on my 88 Yota pickup, I had the entire front end in the air and did them both at the same time. When finished, I locked the hubs and rotated one wheel (While it was still on jack stands). If both are working correctly, the other wheel should rotate in the opposite direction (open diffs do this, locked would be same direction). I then unlocked the hubs, set the truck down and drove down the street to a place I could put it in 4 wheel drive and tested it out. Make sure to test it out on a soft surface like gravel or dirt. If nothing goes bang, clank, snap, crash or boom... you should be good to go. :D
 

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