Let us know, I'm good for a front and rear for my '03.
TEQ badge for 100 series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rb4638
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I got the rear hatch TEQ badge all prototyped today. It took 3 version before I had it perfected. I will be sending it out to another mud member to varify perfect fitment before I put these on my website. I do have a request. I have moved on to the front TEQ grille badge for the 03-07 100 series. The factory "sombrero" emblem itself is a complex shape with a lot of concave and convex curves on it. i'm wondering if the grille behind it has those same complicated curves or if it's totally flat. Is there a 03-07 100 series guy that could take a couple up close pics of your grille with the sombrero removed? I would really like to see what the grille looks like behind the emblem. That would give me some idea on what direction I want to go with in attachment methods.
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I am no help as I have a 2000, but the emblem looks great!
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2014
- Threads
- 94
- Messages
- 3,045
- Location
- Little Rock, Arkansas
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- www.facebook.com
Added my TEQ badge last night. White with black. Very happy with the look versus the sombrero!
Some feedback. When I tried to get the screws into the posts on the backside, the screws themselves actually twisted the material of the 3 posts. I was very gentle and did not torque much (I read your caution about not over-torquing), but it was still enough to break all 3 posts off at the back of the new emblem before the 3 screws were even halfway screwed in. I suspect this is a case where twisting the screws causes the plastic to twist and break free from the backside of the emblem.
I'd suggest either increasing the torsion level of the plastic posts (the stock OEM plastic is much more rigid), and/or providing better double sided tape. I ended up pulling the provided double sided tape off, and instead just using permanent outdoor mounting tape. It seems solid enough even without the 3 posts, and the provided double sided tape is pretty flimsy compared to the outdoor mounting tape that I used. The tape I used can be found here:
http://amzn.com/B009NP1JQC
10 lbs may be overkill but with all the vibrations on the truck, I'd rather be conservative. In hindsight, if I had started with 10 lbs mounting tape, I probably wouldn't have even bothered with putting the 3 screws in the backside. I see the posts as more useful for locating the emblem in the center, then for any "secureness", especially given the softness of the plastic material.
Some feedback. When I tried to get the screws into the posts on the backside, the screws themselves actually twisted the material of the 3 posts. I was very gentle and did not torque much (I read your caution about not over-torquing), but it was still enough to break all 3 posts off at the back of the new emblem before the 3 screws were even halfway screwed in. I suspect this is a case where twisting the screws causes the plastic to twist and break free from the backside of the emblem.
I'd suggest either increasing the torsion level of the plastic posts (the stock OEM plastic is much more rigid), and/or providing better double sided tape. I ended up pulling the provided double sided tape off, and instead just using permanent outdoor mounting tape. It seems solid enough even without the 3 posts, and the provided double sided tape is pretty flimsy compared to the outdoor mounting tape that I used. The tape I used can be found here:
http://amzn.com/B009NP1JQC
10 lbs may be overkill but with all the vibrations on the truck, I'd rather be conservative. In hindsight, if I had started with 10 lbs mounting tape, I probably wouldn't have even bothered with putting the 3 screws in the backside. I see the posts as more useful for locating the emblem in the center, then for any "secureness", especially given the softness of the plastic material.
I can do that. Just ship it back and leave a note of what color combo you want.@bhicks Could I possibly return my TEQ emblem in exchange for a different color? I want to match my paracordnationllc. winch strap that's on my little stinger
Added my TEQ badge last night. White with black. Very happy with the look versus the sombrero!
Some feedback. When I tried to get the screws into the posts on the backside, the screws themselves actually twisted the material of the 3 posts. I was very gentle and did not torque much (I read your caution about not over-torquing), but it was still enough to break all 3 posts off at the back of the new emblem before the 3 screws were even halfway screwed in. I suspect this is a case where twisting the screws causes the plastic to twist and break free from the backside of the emblem.
I'd suggest either increasing the torsion level of the plastic posts (the stock OEM plastic is much more rigid), and/or providing better double sided tape. I ended up pulling the provided double sided tape off, and instead just using permanent outdoor mounting tape. It seems solid enough even without the 3 posts, and the provided double sided tape is pretty flimsy compared to the outdoor mounting tape that I used. The tape I used can be found here:
http://amzn.com/B009NP1JQC
10 lbs may be overkill but with all the vibrations on the truck, I'd rather be conservative. In hindsight, if I had started with 10 lbs mounting tape, I probably wouldn't have even bothered with putting the 3 screws in the backside. I see the posts as more useful for locating the emblem in the center, then for any "secureness", especially given the softness of the plastic material.
I'm surprised the tabs broke off like that. I normally have a small taping tool I use to add threads to the plastic which greatly helps the screws slide in without much resistance. I wonder if yours got shipped before I did that. I always double check everything before I ship it, but it's possible I didn't catch that small detail. If you have any issues with attachment; let me know and I will ship you another one. I'm also surprised you didn't feel the 3M automotive adhesive was sufficient. That stuff is crazy sticky and holds up really well in the elements. I actually stuck a TEQ badge on a tacoma grille I was working on for test fitting. when I went to remove it the adhesive would NOT let go. I used so much force to get it off that I actually cracked the grille in the process and took a chunk of plastic off.
Here is a picture of the front grill without the emblem. Other than the sticky that is still there, it looks extremely flat. There is a small circle at the bottom of the center vertical oval. Let me know if you need better photos.
Here is a picture of the rear badge for an '03 LC. The fit is perfect. It looks amazing. Well done.
that is fantastic. I will get to work right now on getting a large batch of these made. I should have this app on my website by Tuesday or Wednesday of this week. I will make a few in black / silver, a few in black / white, a few with white background and black text, & a few red / silver.
Would these work on a 2006 LX470? I read the whole thread but I couldn't find it. The website doesn't show them either.
This will fit any 98-07 100 series and any LX470. I made sure it was large enough to cover either emblem. I should have these up on the website by the middle of next week. I just need to get a batch made and verify a couple things before I launch these on the site. The one if the pic was the very first prototype and was being test fitted by another member since I don't own a 100 (yet). That is the next vehicle on my list. I'm in the hunt currently. If anyone knows of a built 100 in the western 1/2 of the us then give me a heads up. I'm looking to either sell or trade my 80 (built with 96k original miles). I love the rocks but my family is evolving into more of an expedition style need with more of a towing need. The 80 was great on the rocks, but we spend more time camping and exploring then flexing on rocks these days. The 100 just suits my current needs better.
here's a quick rendering how it would look on a (dirty) 06 LX470.
Brad,
Here are some side pics of the installed rear emblem and some side pics of the front grill.
The top of the rear badge is pretty flush. If there is any separation it is on the right and left sides. It is very slight.
Here are some side pics of the installed rear emblem and some side pics of the front grill.
The top of the rear badge is pretty flush. If there is any separation it is on the right and left sides. It is very slight.
Here are a few more. The separation starts at the mid point on the sides (9:00 & 3:00) and moves to about 11:00 & 1:00. The bottom half is much more flush. I tried to get some pictures for you that capture it a little better. It is so slight that the photos are hard to capture. If I had to guess I would say the 9:00 to 11:00 side was a little larger than the 3:00 to 1:00. Hope this helps.
It looks like the curvature is REALLY close but the adhesive itself may not be recessed enough on the back side. Is the adhesive preventing it from sitting flush or is it the curvature? I can increase the depth of the slots on the back to get the adhesive to sit deeper which would pull the emblem up closer. In some pics it looks like there is almost zero gap then others look like there is a big gap; so I'm a little confused. Is the emblem touching top and bottom but not on the sides? I may need to slightly decrease the arc and increase the depth of the adhesive slots. I thought this was perfected, but I'm not so sure now. I'm glad I haven't started that batch yet. I had planned to start that today. I definetly want fitment to be perfect before I start making these. It looks like some of the edges are a tad rough so I need to also work on the settings to get that smoother. I guess this is part of the prototyping process. I usually go through 4-5 prototypes before I get a perfect print and this is only number 1 for this design.
I would agree that the adhesive could be recessed a little bit. The curvature is very close. The bottom half of the badge lays more flush than the top half. The gap is the biggest between the 9:00 and 11:00 points. It doesn't need much tweak. Again, I believe that the adhesive will correct most of it. Perhaps running a strip around the outer edge will help hold it more flush?
So if the gap is between the 9-11 points then that would imply the arch is correct. If the arch was off then the badge would buldge top AND bottom or the middle. My guess is it will sit totally flush if I just recess the adhesive a tad more. Thanks for helping me get this dialed in. I will work on those changes tonight and send you another one later this week for more test fitting. We will get this perfect.
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It looks to me that the 3:00 to 1:00 points are more adhesive related.
