Tech Questions Here

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If you don't mind the drive, JD Foster in Lacombe does some amazing work. He built my cage and re-built my rear swing-out. He does lots of custom stuff and he will do pre-fabbed stuff too. He is sometimes hard to get a hold of but I can vouch for his work. As a matter of fact, I am going over to his place today for a quick fix. Let me know if you want his number. And you can see some of his work in my build thread (linked in my sig). :cheers:
 
Not sure if this is considered tech or stupidity but here goes.
No picture but had a sport weld leaking on the fuel tank(on the botton where the baffel is spot welded in place) on the red 4Runner, This is a new tank that was installed previous to me buying the 4Runner.. Droped the tank this weekend flushed it out with lost of water , blew it dry with air let it sit for a while to "breath", found a flat washer , covered the spot weld and welded the inside of the washer to the spot weld then welded all around the out side of the flat washer.
Tested the tank and waa laa it still leaked :mad:. OK one more time, did I mention how thin these after market tanks are. A small pin hole barely was leaking cleaned it up passed another weld on both sides of the previous welds and now have a tank that is not leaking fuel. The weld is now the size of a fifty cent piece but the fuel is staying in the tank :).
 
Good deal. I woulda been scared regardless. I probably woulda filled with sand or water then realized that i Didn't clean it all well and ruined a engine with sand in it.

Glad your not me. :).

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Doable said:
Not sure if this is considered tech or stupidity but here goes.
No picture but had a sport weld leaking on the fuel tank(on the botton where the baffel is spot welded in place) on the red 4Runner, This is a new tank that was installed previous to me buying the 4Runner.. Droped the tank this weekend flushed it out with lost of water , blew it dry with air let it sit for a while to "breath", found a flat washer , covered the spot weld and welded the inside of the washer to the spot weld then welded all around the out side of the flat washer.
Tested the tank and waa laa it still leaked :mad:. OK one more time, did I mention how thin these after market tanks are. A small pin hole barely was leaking cleaned it up passed another weld on both sides of the previous welds and now have a tank that is not leaking fuel. The weld is now the size of a fifty cent piece but the fuel is staying in the tank :).

Thats a good tech tip for the next guys that may not think of using a washer for repair. Just goes to show you test it before mounting and filling it again :) I did similar on the 40 while I had all the inside out why not wire wheel the tank and put a few fresh coats of paint, oops the wire wheel ate a hole in it went from no leak to a leak and a new tank. I guess you can look at it as better now than later. Nice touch on the fix :clap:
 
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Any one have a link to a factory service manual for a 1988 4Runner 3.0 V-6? I have some trouble shooting to do and only have 4cyl factory manuals saved. Thanks
 
Found that one earlier but it only seems to cover 4cyl, Thanks I am going to look through the link closer this time.
 
Fuel cells:

Thinking about getting a 5 gallon so that there is less gas to to go bad and just keeping a jerry can in a carrier incase the 4runner ever runs long enough to burn 5 gallons of gas on a ride.

Question is this : Foam filled or not? I have heard it breaks down over time, I have heard it does not break down. What good does ti actually do?
 
I believe it keeps the gas from sloshing around so much, building pressure, spilling, etc. It takes up space, so in theory, a 5gal foam filled would be bigger than a 5gal with no foam. I see it in a lot of old gas powered farm pumps. Some of them are pretty old and the foam is in good shape. As always, run a pre-filter to catch any little pieces that may come loose so that they don't make it to your primary fuel filter. :meh:
 
It takes up space, so in theory, a 5gal foam filled would be bigger than a 5gal with no foam.

good point, but it is actually a 5 gallon tanke that they just put the foam in so it would actually hold less than 5 gallons. might go with an 8 gallon.
 
I believe it keeps the gas from sloshing around so much, building pressure, spilling, etc. It takes up space, so in theory, a 5gal foam filled would be bigger than a 5gal with no foam. I see it in a lot of old gas powered farm pumps. Some of them are pretty old and the foam is in good shape. As always, run a pre-filter to catch any little pieces that may come loose so that they don't make it to your primary fuel filter. :meh:

good point, but it is actually a 5 gallon tanke that they just put the foam in so it would actually hold less than 5 gallons. might go with an 8 gallon.

think 5 gallon means it holds 5 gallons tank size

take the measurement LxWxH in inches divide by231 will give U the capacity
 
I'm kinda agreeing that they are normally a 5gal then put foam, but I guess that all depends if it's a specialty tank.

Thanks Cody Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
Worked over an extra week here at work and planning on ordering a bender. Trying to make up my mind Between the JD2 Model 32, and the Pro-tools HP200.

The HMP is a vertical bender and requires no stand so it is portable but only has 120*dies compared to the JD2 having 180* dies available. the HMP is also hydraulic but not a powered hydraulic, it runs on a bottle jack so you have to stroke on it but would probably still be easier than the full manual.

Looking at about a 300 dollar difference between the two with 1 1/2" pipe dies.


Test_Bend.avi - YouTube watching the HMP with a air over hydraulic jack I am not sure if I am all that impressed with it now... probably gonna sleep on it.

edit: damnit... forgot the whole reason I was posting.

1 1/2 pipe is 1.9"od does that sound like a decent size for sliders/rollcage? I know DOM is better/lighter but DOM just seems like to much of a hassel to locate + it is expensive as hell everywhere I do find it, like 6 dollars a foot for 1 1/2 OD and only 8' lengths available so I could not make 1 piece hoops for the cages.
 
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BikerTrash said:
Worked over an extra week here at work and planning on ordering a bender. Trying to make up my mind Between the JD2 Model 32, and the Pro-tools HP200.

The HMP is a vertical bender and requires no stand so it is portable but only has 120*dies compared to the JD2 having 180* dies available. the HMP is also hydraulic but not a powered hydraulic, it runs on a bottle jack so you have to stroke on it but would probably still be easier than the full manual.

Looking at about a 300 dollar difference between the two with 1 1/2" pipe dies.

Test_Bend.avi - YouTube watching the HMP with a air over hydraulic jack I am not sure if I am all that impressed with it now... probably gonna sleep on it.

Pretty cool, is he running that off his truck? Do they offer 2 inch dies for it as well. Seems like the bumper, cages and sliders are using the 2 inch pipe right? Looks like you could do some nice projects with it :)
 
Pretty cool, is he running that off his truck?

No, he is sitting in his truck with the air valve. reading the comments he was hiding in his truck incase the thing came apart on him. I would have just put the thing outside and not right next to his truck if I was expecting shrapnel.

the more I look at the JD2 benders I could get the Hydraulic version of the model 32 for 200 more than the HMP200 and it is ridiculously heavier built. and can bend 1/4 wall 2" dom Not that I will be bending that but it is nice to have the option I guess.

it is a 300 dollar option over the manual, plus I would have to get a power suply for the hydraulics unless I could run it off my tractor hydraulics... and then I would have to run my tractor the whole time I am working on something Scratch that, tractor hydraulics are too low pressure... maybe I will just save the 300 dollars and get a workout. it is not like I will be using it everyday.
Model 32 Hydraulic by JD Squared, Inc. - YouTube
 
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