Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
I will let you know what he says.......
Tech Questions Here (8 Viewers)
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Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Here is the info that Lee found about the Superwinch contactors. I'm thinking I like the one's Justin found a little better for the price and the full load pull.
OK, here are the specs I was able to find, from Albright:
http://www.albrightinternational.com/files/downloads/catalogues/SW80%20CATALOGUE.pdf
Look on page 7 of this PDF; The Albright P/N for this contactor is DC88 (actually, DC88P for "environmentally Protected" i.e. sealed to the elements). It is rated at 100 amps for continuous (non-stop) use, 200 amps for 350 seconds (5.8 minutes), 300 amps for 160 seconds (2.6 minutes), and 400 amps for 75 seconds, and up to 800 amps for a very short time (such as winch motor start-up).
Now look at the measured amperage draws of five big winches as tested by Overland Journal:
Tug of War: The Ultimate 12v Winch Test
Note that while these winches had momentary start-up spikes ranging from 460 to 769 amps, the average amp draw while pulling was only 112 to 165 amps. These amperages were measured while pulling an 8,000 lb. Unimog up a 16-degree slope on a "rough" hill. Taking the highest one in the test (165 amps), this contactor would safely power it for about five minutes continuously. Five minutes continuous is a long winch pull! I don't think I've ever seen a winch pull anywhere near that long; I know I have never pulled one more than one minute.
Those amperages were actually measured while pulling. Most of those winches are larger than most folks put on an FJC. A much more common winch for the FJC is the Warn M8000; according Warn's own web site Warn Industries - Jeep, Truck & SUV Winches: M8000 the M8000 draws 80 amps with no load, 200 amps pulling 2,000 lbs., 285 amps pulling 4000 lbs., 350 amps pulling 6,000 lbs., and 435 amps pulling at its maximum-rated 8,000 lbs. So this contactor would safely power the M8000 at maximum load for about one minute.
OK, here are the specs I was able to find, from Albright:
http://www.albrightinternational.com/files/downloads/catalogues/SW80%20CATALOGUE.pdf
Look on page 7 of this PDF; The Albright P/N for this contactor is DC88 (actually, DC88P for "environmentally Protected" i.e. sealed to the elements). It is rated at 100 amps for continuous (non-stop) use, 200 amps for 350 seconds (5.8 minutes), 300 amps for 160 seconds (2.6 minutes), and 400 amps for 75 seconds, and up to 800 amps for a very short time (such as winch motor start-up).
Now look at the measured amperage draws of five big winches as tested by Overland Journal:
Tug of War: The Ultimate 12v Winch Test
Note that while these winches had momentary start-up spikes ranging from 460 to 769 amps, the average amp draw while pulling was only 112 to 165 amps. These amperages were measured while pulling an 8,000 lb. Unimog up a 16-degree slope on a "rough" hill. Taking the highest one in the test (165 amps), this contactor would safely power it for about five minutes continuously. Five minutes continuous is a long winch pull! I don't think I've ever seen a winch pull anywhere near that long; I know I have never pulled one more than one minute.
Those amperages were actually measured while pulling. Most of those winches are larger than most folks put on an FJC. A much more common winch for the FJC is the Warn M8000; according Warn's own web site Warn Industries - Jeep, Truck & SUV Winches: M8000 the M8000 draws 80 amps with no load, 200 amps pulling 2,000 lbs., 285 amps pulling 4000 lbs., 350 amps pulling 6,000 lbs., and 435 amps pulling at its maximum-rated 8,000 lbs. So this contactor would safely power the M8000 at maximum load for about one minute.
is anyone in the club familiar with electric over hydraulic trailer brakes? the gooseneck I am looking at is set up with them and acording to the seller they never worked while he had the trailer and he never fixed them because "I have been all over the country pulling it with my dually and never needed them, if you have enough truck you dont need trailer brakes" my luck does not run like that.
Roll in bedliners. Has anyone used one worth a darn? About to rip the floor out of my dually and thinking about bedlining it but not wanting to pay for rhino lining it. Tried the duplicolor before but it didn't last.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Ask Jonathan. He was raving about that stuff but I can't remember the name of it.
Edit: Raptor Liner. I think he brought some to Larry at the last meeting.
Edit: Raptor Liner. I think he brought some to Larry at the last meeting.
Ok, well picked up some heruliner this afternoon. will give it a whirl.
raptor liner
wre have a few kits
great stuff come ready to spry in even comes with the gun
wre have a few kits
great stuff come ready to spry in even comes with the gun
hOW BAD IS THE overspray? I am doing this to the floor inside the cab of the dually and what does a kit run?
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- #1,890
I rolled the 80 with two coats of Durabak and it came out good. So far no peeling or tears and I've thrown tools, saws, and other stuff back there.
Have the Raptor product I got from Jon/Ryan for the bed of the Dodge but can be applied the same if needed to the interior.
not bad its a heavy product and all ya need is about 40psi we did a full jeep with one kit , it covers great
im doing the inside a bronco thursday are fri will do a vid
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
OK, you guys know I am not the most mechanical person around. So, I have some questions:
What's the best / easiest / least expensive way to get lower gearing for wheeling?
Currently, I have the SBC 350 / TLC stock 4 speed tranny / 3 speed TC (according to Brian's for sale ad when I bought the 40). I have an opportunity to buy a SM465 and as I understand it, this tranny has the low (granny) first gear. It has an AA kit to connect to a stock TC. Near as I can tell, the only other thing I should need is a GM bellhousing to make this set-up work. Is this correct or would I need anything else? Will the clutch set-up work with this? Would this be a wise move to get a lower gearing for wheeling?
I also found a guy who has an Aussie 4 speed tranny that he says would be a direct bolt-in swap for the current tranny and it has a lower 1st gear. This would be around twice the price as the SM465 option.
What about re-gearing the diffs? Would that help with slowing down 1st gear? I know this would not be a cheap option but as it is looking I am going to have to take apart the rear diff to fix a leak at some point and I want to put a locker in the front. Speaking of which, are there any other options other than ARB or automatic (Aussie, Lockright, etc) lockers? What are e-lockers and do they make them for the 40?
Sorry for all the stupid questions but I am trying to learn.
What's the best / easiest / least expensive way to get lower gearing for wheeling?
Currently, I have the SBC 350 / TLC stock 4 speed tranny / 3 speed TC (according to Brian's for sale ad when I bought the 40). I have an opportunity to buy a SM465 and as I understand it, this tranny has the low (granny) first gear. It has an AA kit to connect to a stock TC. Near as I can tell, the only other thing I should need is a GM bellhousing to make this set-up work. Is this correct or would I need anything else? Will the clutch set-up work with this? Would this be a wise move to get a lower gearing for wheeling?
I also found a guy who has an Aussie 4 speed tranny that he says would be a direct bolt-in swap for the current tranny and it has a lower 1st gear. This would be around twice the price as the SM465 option.
What about re-gearing the diffs? Would that help with slowing down 1st gear? I know this would not be a cheap option but as it is looking I am going to have to take apart the rear diff to fix a leak at some point and I want to put a locker in the front. Speaking of which, are there any other options other than ARB or automatic (Aussie, Lockright, etc) lockers? What are e-lockers and do they make them for the 40?
Sorry for all the stupid questions but I am trying to learn.
cruiserfien
Black Sheep Cruisers!!
Mike, not sure about the sm465 but Jose has the SM420 and 1st is major granny--used it alot at GSMTR---That is until Jose would go no further--
just do a gear change in the tcase . that is easy .
and that way u dont have to spend 800 on diff gears are mess with clutch set ups are hydro clutch stuff and tranny fitment and braces , ect
#1 what gear do U have in the thirds now?
most likely 4.1
#2 what T case.
Link to the diff units
Toyota Land Cruiser Transfer Case Identification - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com
not any real opts for re-gearing heard that Georg was working on that not sure if ready & what T case or cases it fits.
IMHO you street it some mostly wheel it would re gear & put a selectable locker in the front to my knowledge No E locker for 40ies
well U could B the first !cut down an 80 E axle
use a 40 fab third member mount area now that`s work axle spline count length don`t know if same or not----- prob not.
I don't know about your gearing but I would go with an ARB locker in the front or just keep it open. Or, cable lockers (oem) if you can find them (good luck). E-lockers are electronically controlled and they don't make them for the 40.
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- #1,899
You have a Summit Racing crate motor 350 with the factory 4 speed tranny out of that cruiser and an older 3 speed TC from my 70 model I gave him. I put the conversion gear kit in from Manafre. Had the factory gear ratio 4.11's don't believe Bryan ever regeared it.
Check out the Orion case and maybe an ARB up front. You can talk to Bodean he just put one in the Purty truck before the Moab trip he's running a stock drivetrain. Marlin use to have the Toy Box that would require cutting down your rear DS not a big deal but I think they cancelled the design for the 40 from some threads I read. I'm a fan of Marlins products.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
Thanks for all the responses. And thanks to Larry for clarifying the drive train and diff gears. I was going to ask Brian how he knew the t-case was a 3 speed but now I know. That actually helps as the adapter that Theo (seller) has on the SM465 is for a 3 speed case. After doing a bit more research and speaking with Theo, if he can get it to me for reasonable shipping, I think that is the way I am going to go. I read through a ton of threads last night and for the price (he is only asking $350 for the tranny and adapter) it seems like a good road to take. He rebuilt the 465 and put only 1000 miles on it before swapping to the NV4500. Seems like it should last for quite some time now that it's rebuilt. Also, the only real negative I could find about the 465 is that it's freakin' heavy. Anyone have any actual experience with them good or bad?
As for the front locker, what is a selectable locker? Is that what ARB is? I know it's an air locker but are there any other alternatives? I don't want the Ausie / Lockrite type as I do street drive it some and don't want to be constantly fighting it. What about ad LSD like Sean has? What's the difference?
And as for the Orion, I would love to go that route but I don't want to have to take out a home equity loan to fund my habit.....
As for the front locker, what is a selectable locker? Is that what ARB is? I know it's an air locker but are there any other alternatives? I don't want the Ausie / Lockrite type as I do street drive it some and don't want to be constantly fighting it. What about ad LSD like Sean has? What's the difference?
And as for the Orion, I would love to go that route but I don't want to have to take out a home equity loan to fund my habit.....