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- #41
Tech Questions Here
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Did too,
okay
I think we'd all benefit even better from a U-bolt flip kit. I'm sure you all know how much those cost. I've given it a lot of consideration, and I think that the old Pirate4x4 DIY solution is the best. I mean, for under $15 a piece plus some plate and bolts, you can have your only using very nice GM parts. I WON'T buy those U-bolt Flip Kits from you know who, only because I think they are outrageously priced. Anyway, if you all are interested in fabricating something, I say we at least look into using the GM axle stuff. It's very nice and proven. Here's a pic or two of the GM parts. BTW, they are $14.14 a piece from GMpartsdepot.com at this very moment....also, the last pic is the "Old School" way of doing it...this link to Pirate is pretty Old: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214334&page=2&highlight=ubolt+flip
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- #44
I agree thats a good way to go but because I already have new u-bolts on the three rigs I want to put them on I'm going to go the skid plate route myself.
The GM plate is actually pretty sweet. Thanks for the link.
Bx
Bx
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- #46
Here is a question I had so I did some digging today and it looks like I found my anwser. Was wondering if anyone made a spool for a Land Cruiser? Whats a spool you ask its a another type of device used in locking the axle but offers no slip and basically joins the two axles together. You ask whats the benefit of a spool versus a ARB or Aussie. Simple the cost. Typical spools can be had for about $100. Spools are not street friendly and is mostly used on trail only rigs or racing applications. %100 traction. Another cheap fix to that is to weld the spider or side gears it serves the same purpose the problem with welding them is you can't reverse it rather have to replace it. Since I find they don't make a spool I will go this route in welding the rear. Thats no problem on the rear as I've seen many folks go that route my next thing is to read up on seeing how its working for folks on the front axle and if there are any negative issues with the steering or stress on the birfs. No worries I'm not hacking up the 67 or 78 but getting my game plan and collecting parts for a trail rig.
In short there is no spool offered for a cruiser.
http://www.recycler.com/automotive_...ed?id=RCY-196-12007667&search_zip=&class=4630
Good read.
http://www.bc4x4.com/pr/2000/spool/spool.cfm
In short there is no spool offered for a cruiser.
http://www.recycler.com/automotive_...ed?id=RCY-196-12007667&search_zip=&class=4630
Good read.
http://www.bc4x4.com/pr/2000/spool/spool.cfm
Point taken but you're really only talknig about $250 or so right? I've seen in a few threads of the welds breaking (some guys bitchin).. I've not seen an Aussie break. Not saying it can't happen and this is all from a man that looks at vaginas all day long... but just a thought.
whatta ya say?
me
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- #48
Point taken but you're really only talknig about $250 or so right? I've seen in a few threads of the welds breaking (some guys bitchin).. I've not seen an Aussie break. Not saying it can't happen and this is all from a man that looks at vaginas all day long... but just a thought.
whatta ya say?
me
We'll see how the welds hold up. Your right on the Aussie and wouldn't think twice on a better rig but for a trail rig build that $500 for the front and rear can be put elsewhere until it breaks.
We'll see how the welds hold up. Your right on the Aussie and wouldn't think twice on a better rig but for a trail rig build that $500 for the front and rear can be put elsewhere until it breaks.
You know, I hadn't even thought of Lincoln Locking my rear diff. and I am surprised because that is the most redneck way of doing it and the goal for my truck is to be so redneck that people from Arkansas would be embarased to be seen in it.
If I had a better welding machine I might try it
Oh come on now.... you're gona have to do better than that if you're gona try to embarrass folks in Arkansas about how redneck your rig is! Take a look around and see if you can find you some old Co-op mudders, sch 80 roll bar, lift blocks front and rear, boat gas tank, home built winch, and screwdriver ignition and you'll be close...
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- #51
You know, I hadn't even thought of Lincoln Locking my rear diff. and I am surprised because that is the most redneck way of doing it and the goal for my truck is to be so redneck that people from Arkansas would be embarased to be seen in it.
If I had a better welding machine I might try it
Josh I wouldn't advise you to do this to your truck as you drive a good bit on the street and highway. I encourage you to be as Redneck as you wanna be but sporting the Redneck way safely.
Oh come on now.... you're gona have to do better than that if you're gona try to embarrass folks in Arkansas about how redneck your rig is! Take a look around and see if you can find you some old Co-op mudders, sch 80 roll bar, lift blocks front and rear, boat gas tank, home built winch, and screwdriver ignition and you'll be close...
LOL, I've seen some Coon-Ass and Hill Billy mods that would fit right in.
Well, Some might call it redneck...others might call it HardCore...either way, I think if you are going to spool the cruiser, you have to do it right. There are welders and then their are expert welders. For this, I'd recommend the following: A rockwell gauge, see what hardness/make the metal is FIRST. Find a welder that KNOWS and has been trained in welding exotics and especially knows steel. Steel has 3 totally unique phases. Most welders DO NOT know how to weld stuff like this. I'm NOT talking about looks. I'm talking about knowing how to weld without heat-treating or altering the makeup,etc. You have to know what you have first, then what current and rod and all to use. You have to be careful ESPECIALLY on GEARS, ETC not to introduce pockets of air/water/etc...it has to be sprayed w/chemical, ground, reground, etc. I think a very super reliable job can be done, but I'd be very suspicious of just anyone doing it. Luckily, in these parts, there are an abundance of welders who weld on mission-critical oilfield parts all the time (hastelloy, inconel, you name it) One of my clients trains welders to weld on such things....IMHO its worth getting a good welder to do it...
Yeah... but would he be "Redneck" (or "Coonass" for that matter) if he did let someone else do it that knew what they were doing????
me!
Castor Correction on FJ80
Hmmmm...you bring up a good point...
Side note: Drove the lifted 80 for a few days without correcting castor. The feel of the firmer new springs and shocks, and I never really noticed anthing wrong with the steering. Knowing that Christo Slee knows what he's talking about, I left work at noon Wednesday and went to my buddy Paul's to install Castor Correction Bushings...boy to they leave out MAJOR info on that install!!! And like Slee says, alot (most?) of people DON'T do it. He says that they usually are amazed at the way the rig drives once Slee installs the bushings for them...well, personally, I had my doubts about how much or what it would actually do. It took quite a while to do and luckily Paul has a 50-ton press. It took several tons of force to "pop" the old bushings out. We made a template for the orientation and bolts which basically simulated the mounting location on the truck itself by welding two bolts to the iron in the factory locations before removing the old bushings. Slee's similar setup:
Here you can see their jig with the two bolts, the bushings and the MARKS...the key is to get MAXIMUM drop. If you don't use such a rig, you will put them in slightly crooked or rotated, and NOT get max. drop AND put undue stress on them....thus the reason for the jig...anyway, I'm glad I drove it BEFORE and AFTER, to "See" and "feel" the difference the castor correction makes....it's HUGE. Like I said, it drove great (or so I THOUGHT) before...BUT---As soon as I drove off from Paul's house, and made my first turns, I noticed that the wheel turned more easily and returned to center on its own....I hadn't really noticed that it wasn't doing that before---mostly because I was so pleased with the quality and feel of the firmer OME ride. Anyway, thought I'd share....I'll add a pic later of the passenger side STOCK configuration AFTER the driver's side was corrected. The difference/angle is huge and alot more than I expected. I'm very happy with this OME J lift, and Highly recommend it.
Here's a picture of the passenger's side control arm's position AFTER the driver's side Castor Correction Bushings were installed.
Hmmmm...you bring up a good point...
Side note: Drove the lifted 80 for a few days without correcting castor. The feel of the firmer new springs and shocks, and I never really noticed anthing wrong with the steering. Knowing that Christo Slee knows what he's talking about, I left work at noon Wednesday and went to my buddy Paul's to install Castor Correction Bushings...boy to they leave out MAJOR info on that install!!! And like Slee says, alot (most?) of people DON'T do it. He says that they usually are amazed at the way the rig drives once Slee installs the bushings for them...well, personally, I had my doubts about how much or what it would actually do. It took quite a while to do and luckily Paul has a 50-ton press. It took several tons of force to "pop" the old bushings out. We made a template for the orientation and bolts which basically simulated the mounting location on the truck itself by welding two bolts to the iron in the factory locations before removing the old bushings. Slee's similar setup:
Here you can see their jig with the two bolts, the bushings and the MARKS...the key is to get MAXIMUM drop. If you don't use such a rig, you will put them in slightly crooked or rotated, and NOT get max. drop AND put undue stress on them....thus the reason for the jig...anyway, I'm glad I drove it BEFORE and AFTER, to "See" and "feel" the difference the castor correction makes....it's HUGE. Like I said, it drove great (or so I THOUGHT) before...BUT---As soon as I drove off from Paul's house, and made my first turns, I noticed that the wheel turned more easily and returned to center on its own....I hadn't really noticed that it wasn't doing that before---mostly because I was so pleased with the quality and feel of the firmer OME ride. Anyway, thought I'd share....I'll add a pic later of the passenger side STOCK configuration AFTER the driver's side was corrected. The difference/angle is huge and alot more than I expected. I'm very happy with this OME J lift, and Highly recommend it.
Here's a picture of the passenger's side control arm's position AFTER the driver's side Castor Correction Bushings were installed.
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Oh come on now.... you're gona have to do better than that if you're gona try to embarrass folks in Arkansas about how redneck your rig is! Take a look around and see if you can find you some old Co-op mudders, sch 80 roll bar, lift blocks front and rear, boat gas tank, home built winch, and screwdriver ignition and you'll be close...
... ok, maybe I spoke out of turn.. M truck will only, SLIGHTLY be redneck engineered.
Ok Larry is there a trick to this rebuild kit. I have the top and the bottom of the steering box off and the thing will not come free. I have bet the cr-p out of this thing. need help.triied to remove the box but the tie rod ends will come free.
I'm assuming that you're rebuilding the Center Arm, since that's what we noticed at Larry's shop...it was worn and pivoting on its own axis...
You don't need to take the steering box off. Nor do you need to take the Center Arm off.
I'd rebuild the drag link too....while you're there....but anyway, you can undo the steering dampener, the drag link, take top nut and threaded washer out, etc. I recall having to unscrew the bottom nut and hammering on IT so as to not mess up any threads...should pop right out. The center arm is made to be adjusted regularly, and all you do is tighten it all the way, then back off about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, hold the center (22mm I think) and tighten the lock nut. I've not done it in a few years, but its pretty easy.
I have a tie rod puller, heavy duty Pitman arm puller, etc if you like to borrow it...
You don't need to take the steering box off. Nor do you need to take the Center Arm off.
I'd rebuild the drag link too....while you're there....but anyway, you can undo the steering dampener, the drag link, take top nut and threaded washer out, etc. I recall having to unscrew the bottom nut and hammering on IT so as to not mess up any threads...should pop right out. The center arm is made to be adjusted regularly, and all you do is tighten it all the way, then back off about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way, hold the center (22mm I think) and tighten the lock nut. I've not done it in a few years, but its pretty easy.
I have a tie rod puller, heavy duty Pitman arm puller, etc if you like to borrow it...
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- #58
Yup, Mike summed it up. To make things easy if you can borrow Mike's tie rod seperator use it or they rent them at the parts store and will refund your money when you return it. You'll save the tie rod ends. Also when going back with them if the end boots that hold the frease fall apart you can pick them up in the help section at O'Reilly 4-Sure not so sure at the zone. Spectre makes the poly ones which are very nice but pricy and being you need to get it back together you don't want to wait. There use to be a good write up on the rebuild I'll look for it. I'll be in that area after lunch. Holden's testing for his yellow belt and then picking up more stainless for the winch at Home Depot since S&L closed tomorrow also need some salt for the well. I can stop by and give you a hand after that. No plan as of now Father-in-law's birthday but as of bedtime there were no plans so give me a call let me know where you're at with it.
Larry to the rescue again. I got the center arm rebuilt just need to make it to the store for some grease. I ran out. I hope this fixed the steering problem. If not back to the drawing board. Scott, Larry was saying you needed to do some things to the troopy, if you need some help this week I will be around just give me a call. 
yeah, there's lots of room for it in the stock setup....the drag link (you can "fix" it temporarily with penny...its just a spring loaded, adjustable ball/socket that moves in a piston-like fashion...those kits are cheap....there are something like 5 tie rod ends...and the center arm, not to mention the steering gearbox itself (which is also adjustable)...
Sorry to have missed out on all the fun today...maybe tomorrow I'll have some cruiser time!
Sorry to have missed out on all the fun today...maybe tomorrow I'll have some cruiser time!