talk to me about firming up the drag link ends on an 85'
- Thread starter motoloco
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2006
- Threads
- 265
- Messages
- 9,822
- Location
- Ashland, OR
- Website
- www.jeffersonstatecruisers.com
Yes, but I'd pull the whole thing off and take the ends apart and give it a good cleaning. There should be a cotter pin in each end to keep the adjusters from turning...
Oh, and since you're a mud veteran I won't have to tell you we'll need some pics before more tech advice is dished out.
Oh, and since you're a mud veteran I won't have to tell you we'll need some pics before more tech advice is dished out.
Each end of the draglink has a split bushing which rides on either side of the ball attached to the J-arm or the Pitman arm (depending on which end). There is a spring on either side of the formed bushings. Often, mechanics leave one of these springs out when putting the draglink back on as the screw that you referred to in the end is very difficult to get started with stiff screws.
You need to take it apart and ensure that both springs are in the loose end before you try to tighten it. Otherwise you will grind the little bushing into oblivion while driving.
You need to take it apart and ensure that both springs are in the loose end before you try to tighten it. Otherwise you will grind the little bushing into oblivion while driving.
- Thread starter
- #4
I see, thanks mini truckers! I know MOOG chassie parts makes a rebuild kit for the rod ends ( new springs, bushings and cotter pin) I will pull it apart today and see what the problem be
I would just spend the $300.00 and get a hysteer crossover steering kit. It uses many of the FJ80 components and replaces everything. Crossover is a better design anyway.
Many places make one. All Pro, Marlin, Trail Gear, Sky, Just to name a few
Many places make one. All Pro, Marlin, Trail Gear, Sky, Just to name a few
It won't work unless he decides to install a lift kit.
- Thread starter
- #8
The truck has a 5" lift, but it will be sold next week on e-bay, just want to get everything nice and tight for the next owner. Then they can decide on hi-steer or not, if it was my keeper, we would'nt be having this thread, it would have hi-steer already! thanks again!
Ohhh, I see, pump us for information then kick us outa bed the next mourning!.......
confused: er, is that a good term....uh?)Sell out!
It doesn't you have to get an IFS steering box and power steering pump is preferred. BTW you have to weld a plate on your frame too.
drool!
Exactly.
So the post about dropping 300.00us and “upgrading” your steering is BS.
On the 4Runners and Pickups that I have done this conversion on, it was WELL OVER 300.00us to make this steering conversion fly, and was not a simple, bolt on modification.
Exactly.
So the post about dropping 300.00us and “upgrading” your steering is BS.
On the 4Runners and Pickups that I have done this conversion on, it was WELL OVER 300.00us to make this steering conversion fly, and was not a simple, bolt on modification.
I forgot about the steering box. oops. Add an extra $50 for a salvage box and plates from anywhere. It beats tryin to steer 35's off road with the crappy push/pull system the factory one uses. Thats why the steering is so sloppy at 62,000 miles in the 1st place. At that time I didn't know he was doing to sell it. You don't need another pump.
I see, thanks mini truckers! I know MOOG chassie parts makes a rebuild kit for the rod ends ( new springs, bushings and cotter pin) I will pull it apart today and see what the problem be
you can tighten the screws, or if it is to worn for the cotter key to catch the groove. then you can fix it for 2 cents.
that's right take 2 pennies and pull the screw and put the pennies in and tighten it back down.
not recommended, not in the service manual but I drove one like that for 6 years. no problems.
really fixed it. it lasted 220,000 miles untill it needed that adjustment!!!
just my .02.
