T Strut (8020) roof rack - Version 2 (1 Viewer)

[tincan45]

Hi Folks,

Thought would take a minute and post the the second version of my attempt at a functional factory roof rack option. So far, this one checks all the boxes. It's functional, quiet and cost effective. The original rack rails had one big problem...low clearance. This version elevates the rails using corner brackets and includes an integrated wind deflector. Here is the quick parts list for anyone interested:

5 - 48 Inch "1020-S-Black-FB" 1"x2" T strut $.64inch (80/20)
3 - "4198-Black" - Wind Deflector Bracket Assembly $17.59 (80/20)
10 - "4114-Black" Inside Corner Bracket $6.51 each (80/20)
30 - "3280" 1/4-20 Double Slide-in Economy T-Nut $.69 each (80/20)
50 - 1/4x20x1/2 Stainless flange head hex bolts (Amazon)
1 - 1"x36" Square tube (Local Box Store)
1 - 2'x4' Restaurant grade ceiling tile for wind deflector (Lowes)

Total = ~$335 (Less if you buy tnutz.com materials, but the quality isn't as good)

ACCESSORIES

L-Track kits for strut ends...I bought three of these.

Notes:

- I was in a bit of a rush before LCDC and didn't have time to source a good deflector, so I found a restaurant grade ceiling tile at Lowes that was cheap and actually is holding up fine. Will probably make an aluminum version soon.
- The wind deflector is a must. Without it, the rails are pretty loud.
- The flange head bolt are way better than the standard 8020 bolts.
- Use zinc or stainless fasteners as much as you can. I ran out of zinc fasteners and used a few of the steel button head 8020 bolts and they rusted immediately. Stainless replacements are on the way.
- If you cut the square deflector tubing with enough clearance, the sun roof will still function.
- Total storage area is 48x48.


INSTALL PICTURES

 

[greynolds]

Nice job, once again!

A few comments and questions:

You listed "4114-Black" Inside Corner Bracket" in the parts list, but it looks like you ended up with silver ones, I assume they just didn't have the black ones in stock when you ordered. I see they also have some that have slotted holes so the height can be adjusted. In my case, I would need the T struts as close to the top of the factory rails as possible due to clearance issues in the garage. Do you see any issue with going with one of the slotted corner bracket options (such as part #14111 or #14105, though preferably in black to blend in better) and adjusting things so the T struts sit right on top of the factory rails? Obviously, there would be potential issues with the T struts sliding down under weight if trying to adjust them slightly above the factory rails. I would also need to ensure that I choose an option that has the same spacing to work with the slide in T nuts.

Are the 3280 slide in T nuts what slides into the factory rails? If so, that makes for a nice clean setup.

Did the hole spacing on the L Track kits align with the threaded holes in the ends of the T struts?

Did you have any of the machining services (end taps, counterbores, etc.) done to the T struts? If so, which options did you go with?

Sorry for all the questions, but this looks like a great solution for those of us who just don't have the need for a full aftermarket rack replacement, but want something with more capability / flexibility than the factory rack.

 

[tincan45]

Nice job, once again!

A few comments and questions:

You listed "4114-Black" Inside Corner Bracket" in the parts list, but it looks like you ended up with silver ones, I assume they just didn't have the black ones in stock when you ordered. I see they also have some that have slotted holes so the height can be adjusted. In my case, I would need the T struts as close to the top of the factory rails as possible due to clearance issues in the garage. Do you see any issue with going with one of the slotted corner bracket options (such as part #14111 or #14105, though preferably in black to blend in better) and adjusting things so the T struts sit right on top of the factory rails? Obviously, there would be potential issues with the T struts sliding down under weight if trying to adjust them slightly above the factory rails. I would also need to ensure that I choose an option that has the same spacing to work with the slide in T nuts.

Thanks! 80/20 has had the black for quite a while, however, I wan't sure I could get them in time so I ordered from tnutz and they only offer silver. My only reservation with the 14111 or 14105 would be wind noise. The extra support may cause more noise, but I don't know this for a fact. You would always drill hole in the 4114 wherever you need them for clearance. Remember, the factory rack is curved, so the spacing will vary across the length of the rack.

Are the 3280 slide in T nuts what slides into the factory rails? If so, that makes for a nice clean setup.

Yep - Works out nicely. I'm a little concerned about rust, but the only option in stainless is the single hole. I might switch them out at some point.

Did the hole spacing on the L Track kits align with the threaded holes in the ends of the T struts?

Yes - They line up perfectly. I'm glad you mentioned this, because you will want 1/4x20x1" stainless machine screws to hold the bracket in place. I bought them at the local box store.

Did you have any of the machining services (end taps, counterbores, etc.) done to the T struts? If so, which options did you go with?

I just tapped them myself. Aluminum is very easy to tap and I already had all the bits and taps. You could very easily order them pre-tapped for marginal charge and save yourself about an hour.

Hope this helps!

 

[PDoyle]

Is that magnetic antenna for your phone?

 

[tincan45]

Is that magnetic antenna for your phone?

No that's my GMRS radio. This is a daily driver so I try not to hard mount too many things.

 

[slowpok3]

Really like the evolution of the diy crossbars that you all have shared in multiple posts - @tincan45 , @SNBI07, @tbisaacs, @BigMF

Anyone using the 10 Series brackets attempt to use the 6 hole version like these to get the crossbars a bit closer to the rails? (CBS-010-C) 10 Series 6 Hole Slotted Inside Corner Bracket | TNUTZ | TNUTZ

 

[montegofd3s]

Looks like you did a really good job! I especially like the ends having a tie down point being optional. This was something I was trying to figure out how to add attachment points to other peoples previous designs (for lowes lumber runs mostly). I was thinking the same @slowpok3. I just want to get the cross rails as tight as I can to the main rails.

 

[montegofd3s]

Also, if anyone is switching to strictly T-slot, and wants to sell their stock cross bar(s) please let me know. I am playing with a couple of options and would like to have some OEM cross bars to modify/experiment with. Thanks.

 

[Patassa]

Hmm, is the only thing preventing lateral movement of the cross bars the tension of the bolts (4?) in the 80/20 slot?

 

[iwashmycar]

Really like the evolution of the diy crossbars that you all have shared in multiple posts - @tincan45 , @SNBI07, @tbisaacs, @BigMF

Anyone using the 10 Series brackets attempt to use the 6 hole version like these to get the crossbars a bit closer to the rails? (CBS-010-C) 10 Series 6 Hole Slotted Inside Corner Bracket | TNUTZ | TNUTZ

It looks like using the middle holes on the OPs 10 hole (or whatever they are) would accomplish that pretty well

 

[montegofd3s]

Hmm, is the only thing preventing lateral movement of the cross bars the tension of the bolts (4?) in the 80/20 slot?

View attachment 2420760

Yes, but generally you would be using the ring just to hold down what is sitting on top of the t-slot (like plywood in my case). that would mean you basically have 16 bolts (4 bolts per crossbar times 4 bars) keeping the lateral motion in check. That should be plenty. You could get a bigger bracket with 4 bolt holes per side (8 bolts per crossbar) if it was concerning.

 

[Patassa]

Yes, but generally you would be using the ring just to hold down what is sitting on top of the t-slot (like plywood in my case). that would mean you basically have 16 bolts (4 bolts per crossbar times 4 bars) keeping the lateral motion in check. That should be plenty. You could get a bigger bracket with 4 bolt holes per side (8 bolts per crossbar) if it was concerning.

Yeah make sense.

 

[tincan45]

Looks like you did a really good job! I especially like the ends having a tie down point being optional. This was something I was trying to figure out how to add attachment points to other peoples previous designs (for lowes lumber runs mostly). I was thinking the same @slowpok3. I just want to get the cross rails as tight as I can to the main rails.

Thanks. And the full 4' is still usable.

Hmm, is the only thing preventing lateral movement of the cross bars the tension of the bolts (4?) in the 80/20 slot?

View attachment 2420760

There are 4 bolts securing the rail on each bracket. I had about 140lbs of gear to/from OK for CO (1400 Miles) and daily driven another 2000 since then. ...Hasn't budged so far.