Synthetics....Which ones and ok for high mileage engine? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

That is not a question you will get a solid answer to,

the benefits are slightly less wear, engine cleanliness, less deposits, better protection (of the oil) from high temperatures and oxidation, better cold start pumpability all of this may lead to longer engine life but no one can tell you how much if any more life it will have, a mile? 1,000 miles? 100,000 miles? You would have to know that answer to say if it was worth it, most people sell or wreck their cars long before the engines fail anyway

I friend at work has a late 90's Nissan that ran Mobil one from new, I don't remember the mileage but it was 6 figures, he showed me under the filler cap and besides where the dark oil pooled in the low spots the aluminum head look like it was just cast yesterday not a bit of varnish anywhere, I really like that, is that alone it worth it? To me it is but to you it may not be. It is to late for my cruiser it already has a light varnish layer from 100K of Dino use in the GA heat (light layer wont hurt anything), but at least I can keep it from growing

also slightly better gas millage but not enough to fully offset the higher cost of synthetic oil, you could see a slight cost savings from synthetic ATF and gear oil as they stay in longer and give more time for the small improvements to add up to a fuel cost savings over time, although a lot of 80 owners wind up dumping their diff fluid early for one reason or another (see above)

I can change my own oil with synthetic for about what I used to pay a quick lube place to do it for me with Dino, that and the slightly better gas mileage and I can rationalize the cost weather correctly or not, so I am happy with whatever small benefits I may see, you may never see any benefit from synthetic use just a lighter wallet
 
I ran a fill of Mobil 1 through my FJ40 at 180k miles and it didn't leak. Prior to me replacing the pan gasket, though, it leaked like the Exxon Valdez-on conventional oil. I think if seals leak, then they leak, and you need to fix them. Synthetics don't cause leaks, that's a tale from the early 70's. Since I only drive the old beast 2-3k per year, I just change spring and fall with Chevron 20w-50.

Interestingly, though, on my FJ40 the inside of the motor looked great-just a bit of brown varnish. The PO was a real oil change freak and changed every 1000 miles with Casterol GTX for 10 years prior to me buying it. It seemed weird, but I have all the records. I guess I'm doing close to the same thing, but for different reasons.
 
[quote author=StressPuppy link=board=2;threadid=17459;start=msg169427#msg169427 date=1086404322]
Ok, let me be stupid about this:

If you change your oil every 5k miles or less, what do you REALLY gain by going to synthetic?????

:slap: No flames, please..........
[/quote]

I think you are likely right stresspup. However, the full synthetic will give you something priceless and that's piece of mind. If you want to save a few$ and run great oil, get the Chevron Delo 15w-40 at Costco-$35 for a case of 6 gallons, which is enough for 3 changes. It can do long drain intervals. I use it in my 60, and from what I read here, it is some of the best oil available at any price. The 60 grooves on it, and the oil costs $12 per change. Not bad. My 80 has run Mobil 1 since low mileage, so I'll stick with it at 5k intervals for what it's worth.
 
Decisions, decisions, decisions.......... ???

I have almost 2 cases of Castrol GTX here, but I can use if for other vehicles. Potentially better gas mileage (even if just 1 mpg) has appeal, as does long life. I guess I will check the vehicle today and see about the varnish levels and such and go from there.

When switching, is it just a matter of drain the dino, replace the filter and put in synthetic? No "flush" or anything?
 
the diffrence will be less than .5 mpg, nothing special just change your oil
 
to help with your decision do you plan to keep yor cruiser a long time? (5+ years or 200K more miles) can you drive a 15 year old beater cruiser or will you want something newer by then? if so than go for the synthetic you may see benefits, if not then go for a good dino Chevron Castrol ect
 
I use Amsoil heavy duty diesel in my new diesel cars.

In my older diesel engines I use Mobil Delvac one thicker synthetic oil.

Either one are awesome oils.


TB
 
I put dino in for this time 'cause that is what I had here!!! I am leaning towards switching, so we'll see.

I did notice some varnish and deposits when looking down through the small hole that is the oil "inlet". Is there any way to clean this up? Since most oils have detergents in them, will that help clean any of that up? What if I changed oil every 2000 miles for a several changes? I am just trying to determine how to get the engine the cleanest, without doing any harm, so that I start with a good base when I switch to synthetic.
 
Update on my oilquest: Costco didn't have M1 0w40, just the same 5w30 and 10w30 or 40 that Wallymart has.. I asked them if they would special order and they told me no, but I could fill out a suggestion for the suggestion box. So I did since I was there, if your Costco suddently starts carrying pallets full of M1 0w40 you'll know who to thank..

Went to Starbucks, found a Sunday paper, the Checker ad is that half sheet that surrounds the color comics. The coupon says "limit one case at this price per coupon" which is 6 quarts, so I bought another paper, and found another coupon around, for a total of 3 then went to Checker and bought 3 cases of M1 0w40, at $3.99/quart. The kid at the counter tried to give me a hard time about using more than one coupon, said he's only supposed to allow one coupon per visit. I offered to leave then come right back, he didn't think that was funny. So don't try the Checker in Broomfield for a while, they're currently out of 0w40 M1 and their used oil drum is full.. so far no leaks!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom