synthetic rope question

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I am currently running a Warn 9000i on my 40 series with a roller fairlead. I want to switch to synthetic rope. Can I use this with my roller fairlead or do I HAVE to switch to a hawse fairlead? I have heard the rope can get stuck in the rollers. Is this true? Anybody running rope with a roller? Any problems?
 
IMO, switch to an alum or umhw? hawse...the rollers will abrade the rope more than the hawse and shorten the life greatly. Yer dumping $150-200 on rope, another $40-50 on the hawse is a smart adder.
 
Who sells the aluminum ones? I was going to pick one up from CCOT but I would rather have the aluminum.

Switching is no big deal since I can use the roller on my 80. Only concern is if the hawse will be a direct bolt on to my winch plate. Without having one in hand I have no way to compare. None local so I am buying blind.
 
Piggyback question: Anybody here make their own plastic (or aluminum) fairleads?

I'm planning to switch to rope soon and it seems like it would be pretty simple to make your own - just use a router to round over the edges. Probably have to make multiple passes in Al, but it seems like it could be done. I'll have to call the local plastic place and see about some UHMW.

It would also be a good option for those of us running Belleview winches with the non-standard bolt pattern.
 
http://www.spidertrax.com/recovery_afl.htm

http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-fairlead.htm

http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RORAF&Category_Code=

http://www.masterpull.com/item.cfm?itemid=9143

...all from the first page of a google search for "aluminum fairlead"

JK Customs in TX used to make a great one, resembled the FJ40 bezel, but I'm unsure if they are doing them anymore. I considered a bulk order and reselling, but haven't gotten around to it. (may again actually....)
 
Bellevue/8274 uses the same mount pattern for the fairlead...identical....
 
woody said:
Bellevue/8274 uses the same mount pattern for the fairlead...identical....


Mine doesn't. I'll measure the bolt pattern tonight, but it's not 10" between the bolts around the drum.
 
Hey, I forgot about mastersuckpull (as junk calls them). They are a couple of miles from me.

Woody I take it your running synthetic. Are you using 3/8's or 5/16's?
 
oh yeah...my old bellevue had another hole drilled in the bumper just for the fairlead....did my current 8274 that was as well, so the winch bolts were buried inside, making theft much more difficult (installation was a PITA too tho...lol)

5/16 on mine, about 120'. Kept it short and used the other 30' for an extension rope/spotter rope. (150' avail on the 8274) Good excuse to learn how to splice rope too.

I need to upgrade me to one of those fancy safety hooks like MP and others have...been on my list for a while....someday...lol
 
FYI Jason (JK Customs) is waiting on enough orders to get another run of them made.......hint hint......


Butch
Mvc-016f.webp
 
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Sorry to hi-jack... Wouldn't you have to be careful of the first layer of rope getting too hot on the drum of the winch? I thought the brake was inside the drum on those.
 
I bet if you search here or ppb you will find multiple threads on this very topic.... ;)





Have installed 125' of 3/8 on three 8274's with rugburn kustom fairleads...have three more to do.

Rugburn and Okoffroad were very good to me....



Good luck!


-Steve
 
the brake issue ONLY comes into play if you are powering-out under heavy load....most out-use is freespool, and powering in where the brake isn't used.
 
Thanks for the clarification on heat/drums. I tend to be "search challenged" when it comes to posts, but I'll work on it.
 
the problem with the AL fairleads is if they get knicked, and they will being at the very front of your truck, and that little nick will eat your new synthetic rope right up. Shouldn't be to hard to make one with a roter and the right material which i think you can get from mcmaster car or other online places.

Stew
 

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