Switching to a coil with an internal ballast resistor (2 Viewers)

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knuckle47

I can’t get enough Land Cruiser
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I am starting an FJ45 project and there is a coil with an external ballast resistor. I am thinking of getting a new coil with an internal resistor… not being well schooled in ignitions, what happens to the two wire that are connected to the external ballast resistor right now?

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The balast resistor is removed and I would put a female/male spade incase you ever need to reinstall a resistor. If using internal resistor coil those 2 wires just connect when resistor is removed.
 
So do they just get joined together ? No other kind of re-routing?
 
What's the 2nd blk wire go to? Starter?
 
I have not yet traced everything out…. It is not a tach however….
had this only a few days and with the downpours here this morning, got an extra day off to mess around with this
 
Last edited:
Great question….

dumb answer…. I did’nt. I exchanged the coil for an external resistor. I’m am trying to retain most stock appearances …sorry
 
Thought the ballist resistor was bypassed when starting the engine and in series while the engine is running. Hotter spark for starting and milder while running which guessing would extend the life of the spark plug.
 
Thought the ballist resistor was bypassed when starting the engine and in series while the engine is running. Hotter spark for starting and milder while running which guessing would extend the life of the spark plug.

The ballast resistor extends the life of the points and possibly the coil. Generally a coil with an internal resistor usually gets 12volts. The external ballast resistor would have to be removed.
 
The ballast resistor extends the life of the points and possibly the coil. Generally a coil with an internal resistor usually gets 12volts. The external ballast resistor would have to be removed.

Guessing an internal ballast would not have the advantage of a hotter spark during starting?
 
An internally resisted coil doesn’t have a resistor inside, it just has more windings. The total resistance of the coil and resistor combo is equal to an internally resisted coil.

The only reason to have the coil and resistor combo is so the resistor can be bypassed during cranking to make up for the voltage drop caused by the high amperage drawing starter.

If your starter doesn’t have the secondary contact built in which is for bypassing the resistor, then you can’t have functioning bypass system and might as well go with an internally resisted coil.

I’ve always though it was confusing to call it an internally resisted coil because it’s the same coil design with just more windings.

Note: It’s possible to have a bypass system if your starter isn’t capable but a relay and some extra wiring is needed.
 

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