Sway bar bolts snapping

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John, I assume since you've previously voiced not having torque steer issues and/or pronounced caster issues on your rig you are running your front end height a little lower. That and along with your stock UCAs not allowing as much droop might explain the difference. Since lowering my front end I've noticed significantly better ASB bushing life...

Also over-tightening the nuts that secures the riser links to the ASB, that also contains the rubber bushings, thereby applying to much preload on those soft rubber bushings, would contribute to shortened link bushing life as well...
 
John, I assume since you've previously voiced not having torque steer issues and/or pronounced caster issues on your rig you are running your front end height a little lower. That and along with your stock UCAs not allowing as much droop might explain the difference. Since lowering my front end I've noticed significantly better ASB bushing life...

Also over-tightening the nuts that secures the riser links to the ASB, that also contains the rubber bushings, thereby applying to much preload on those soft rubber bushings, would contribute to shortened link bushing life as well...

I am 2.75" over stock. Have been for 8+ years.

And no, I will never do a control arm change unless an entire package including a new and lengthened knuckle and other bits are part of the package. I still believe adding droop to the 100's front end compromises durability and I'll take no part in that as it is totally uneccessary for four wheeling.
 
The front height measurement that promotes valid comparison and eliminates most if not all the ambiguity about same is from the hub centerline to the lower portion of the fender lip.

Just say'n.
 
The front height measurement that promotes valid comparison and eliminates most if not all the ambiguity about same is from the hub centerline to the lower portion of the fender lip.

Just say'n.

I hear ya but what I'm just say'n is adding UCA's and the one-inch extra droop nets no true advantage for even harder-core wheelers. This means to me that it's a risk not worth taking. They got 9-inches travel on the 200-series cause they could. They got 7.5 inches travel on the 100-series cause they could. If they could have went 8.5" on the 100 they would have.

So what if my front tire in the air would be one inch lower to the ground? :D

97642146_MPMc4-L.jpg
 
Somehow I want to get sucked into this...but instead I'm going to go do something actually productive.
 
I know...its similar to the longer L shock. If Toyota meant for it to have the additional travel...
 
...and 35's...
 
Looks to be the only guys that have sway bar problems are the one that are wheeled. I watched BlueCruiser at CM20011 break the right side after a quick repair he broke the other side 10 minutes later and we removed the bar completely.
 
Looks to be the only guys that have sway bar problems are the one that are wheeled. I watched BlueCruiser at CM20011 break the right side after a quick repair he broke the other side 10 minutes later and we removed the bar completely.

ROTFLMFAO :lol::lol::lol:
 
What happened to discussing sway bar failures/removal?

Can we avoid another interesting thread becoming polluted with a fight between the locals? (likely not, eh) :hhmm:

I removed the sway bar on my 4runner, and did not notice a worrisome difference on road. I haven't done it on the LC yet and would like to hear opinions of those who have. Thanks.
 

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