Sway bar and bushing refresh after OME lift. (1 Viewer)

[poetdereves]

What's up everyone. I recently purchased a 2003 LX470 that the PO installed an OME lift on. All of the swaybar bushings, end link bushings, and ball joints in the front and rear are completely dry and cracked. The drivability isn't bad, but I want to make sure to keep everything as solid as possible, so I am looking to replace them.

A couple questions:

-Is there a way I can look at my OME shocks and know how much lift they were supposed to give? I know there are different sets you can buy that offer different amounts of lift, but I am not sure which one the PO put on mine.

-Since I have a lift, should I look at extended sway bar links, or just replace the bushings with OEM parts?

-Should I just replace the bushings and ball joints, or go with completely new parts? OEM vs. aftermarket?

 

[nissanh]

Based on the CV axle angle, I do not think you have any significant lift in the front.

Yes, stay with OEm if you want comfort, reliability of another easy 200K miles and peace of mind of a job well done!

Your Lower ball joint boots seems ok, I think you are referring to the outer rack ends. The cheaper route is buy OEM outer ends; Each is about $50 at partsouq.com. the only aftermarket parts I have on my cruiser is the battery, tires and windshield. That's just me.

I did the entire rear suspension with OEM arms: Mine does not look as bad as yours but after the replacement, i did NOT see a significant difference. If you plan to do it, why not. Again stay with OEM.

HAve you check the consition of front uppwer and lowe ball joints?

If you plan to do the control arms or bushings, make sure if you find a significant resistance in the nut, then try to losen the bolt or vise versa.

 

[Mike NXP]

Based on the CV axle angle, I do not think you have any significant lift in the front.

Yes, stay with OEm if you want comfort, reliability of another easy 200K miles and peace of mind of a job well done!

Your Lower ball joint boots seems ok, I think you are referring to the outer rack ends. The cheaper route is buy OEM outer ends; Each is about $50 at partsouq.com. the only aftermarket parts I have on my cruiser is the battery, tires and windshield. That's just me.

I did the entire rear suspension with OEM arms: Mine does not look as bad as yours but after the replacement, i did NOT see a significant difference. If you plan to do it, why not. Again stay with OEM.

HAve you check the consition of front uppwer and lowe ball joints?

If you plan to do the control arms or bushings, make sure if you find a significant resistance in the nut, then try to losen the bolt or vise versa.

-Is there a way I can look at my OME shocks and know how much lift they were supposed to give? I know there are different sets you can buy that offer different amounts of lift, but I am not sure which one the PO put on mine.
>> I don't know much about OME but usually it's the torsion bar adjustment ( front ) and coil height ( rear ) that provide lift.
>> What you could do to get a rough idea is measure from the center of your wheel hub to fender lip. Up front stock height is around 19" and the verdict seems to be anything over 21" would require a diff drop kit and some other adjustments
>> The rear can afford to go a bit higher since it's not messing with much but you don't want too much of a difference between rear and front height. Maybe an inch or so is OK

-Since I have a lift, should I look at extended sway bar links, or just replace the bushings with OEM parts?
>> Don't think you need to do that yet, measure first and then make sense of it.

-Should I just replace the bushings and ball joints, or go with completely new parts? OEM vs. aftermarket?
>> OEM all day will be your answer on these forums for almost every part. However it seems the 555 option for the lower BJ is OK. Mine has held up for a few years with no play. Once you have the vehicle in the air ask someone to shake it all down and see if anything is loose.
>> Remember, every time you install an aftermarket part a little bit of your land cruiser dies inside.



Otherwise that rig looks real clean, just some dry rotted rubber. Focus more on engine maintenance items and get that all checked off the list first. then move to steering and suspension stuff, especially since you said it rides pretty good as is.

Are those brake lines aftermarket? I wonder whats up with that.

 

[poetdereves]

-Is there a way I can look at my OME shocks and know how much lift they were supposed to give? I know there are different sets you can buy that offer different amounts of lift, but I am not sure which one the PO put on mine.
>> I don't know much about OME but usually it's the torsion bar adjustment ( front ) and coil height ( rear ) that provide lift.
>> What you could do to get a rough idea is measure from the center of your wheel hub to fender lip. Up front stock height is around 19" and the verdict seems to be anything over 21" would require a diff drop kit and some other adjustments
>> The rear can afford to go a bit higher since it's not messing with much but you don't want too much of a difference between rear and front height. Maybe an inch or so is OK

-Since I have a lift, should I look at extended sway bar links, or just replace the bushings with OEM parts?
>> Don't think you need to do that yet, measure first and then make sense of it.

-Should I just replace the bushings and ball joints, or go with completely new parts? OEM vs. aftermarket?
>> OEM all day will be your answer on these forums for almost every part. However it seems the 555 option for the lower BJ is OK. Mine has held up for a few years with no play. Once you have the vehicle in the air ask someone to shake it all down and see if anything is loose.
>> Remember, every time you install an aftermarket part a little bit of your land cruiser dies inside.



Otherwise that rig looks real clean, just some dry rotted rubber. Focus more on engine maintenance items and get that all checked off the list first. then move to steering and suspension stuff, especially since you said it rides pretty good as is.

Are those brake lines aftermarket? I wonder whats up with that.

Hub to fender lip is at 20 3/4 ish now. The bumper up front keeps some weight on it.

Engine maintenance is pretty much solid. Timing belt and water pump are done. Radiator and all hoses were just done and filled with OEM red. Power steering pump and all hoses were just done. Spark plugs and ignition coils are all new. Air filter replaced and vacuum with cracks are all done. Heater tees done too.

I do have a P0420 code on for bank 1 sensor 1 low catalyst efficiency that I haven’t figured out. All O2 sensors replaced, PCV valve cleaned, MAF sensor cleaned, etc. I have new cats coming in on Wednesday that should hopefully solve the problem.

I’m changing the oil, front and rear diff fluid, and transfer case fluid right now. Going this week for a transmission fluid exchange as well.

Other than that, getting all my suspension buttoned up is about all it should hopefully need for a long long time.

 

[Mike NXP]

Hub to fender lip is at 20 3/4 ish now. The bumper up front keeps some weight on it.

Engine maintenance is pretty much solid. Timing belt and water pump are done. Radiator and all hoses were just done and filled with OEM red. Power steering pump and all hoses were just done. Spark plugs and ignition coils are all new. Air filter replaced and vacuum with cracks are all done. Heater tees done too.

I do have a P0420 code on for bank 1 sensor 1 low catalyst efficiency that I haven’t figured out. All O2 sensors replaced, PCV valve cleaned, MAF sensor cleaned, etc. I have new cats coming in on Wednesday that should hopefully solve the problem.

I’m changing the oil, front and rear diff fluid, and transfer case fluid right now. Going this week for a transmission fluid exchange as well.

Other than that, getting all my suspension buttoned up is about all it should hopefully need for a long long time.

Nice, that all sounds about right. I don't think with that lift height you need to worry about extended links and what not. That is what I am running at with stock shocks and torsion bars just turned up a little bit.

I saw your thread for the cat issues also, I don't have much experience there. I suspect there might be a decent aftermarket option out there but not sure. What did you go with?


>> Gear box service should be pretty straight forward. A fluid pump will help make it all easier. Remember new washers / gaskets on all plugs isn't a bad idea. I also take my rig to toyota for trans service, seems to be easier that way.


Good looking rig for sure, no rust really and well maintained. Time to send it...

 

[poetdereves]

I have OEM cats coming unless someone responds with some decent options. I can get bolt on magnaflow for half the price, but I want to do it right unless I find people with 30k+ miles on aftermarket cats with no issues.

I have a pump for the fluids and Toyota is doing the transmission. Same as you.

 

[Mike NXP]

I have OEM cats coming unless someone responds with some decent options. I can get bolt on magnaflow for half the price, but I want to do it right unless I find people with 30k+ miles on aftermarket cats with no issues.

I have a pump for the fluids and Toyota is doing the transmission. Same as you.

Awesome, sounds like your rig is getting much love. Now get off these forums before you find more s*** to become paranoid about breaking lol

 

[TLCPNW]

Have you looked into oxygen sensor spacers/extenders for your P0420 code? I've read that they help a lot of times people get this code.