Suspension + Tires: Trying to find a good upgrade cut-off point

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Joined
Aug 31, 2010
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Location
Portland, Oregon
It looks like--god willing--someone is buying my BMW 2002 finally, so I'm going to be sitting on a little bit more free cash than I anticipated. I just ordered my 90k service parts from Beno and will be getting the hundy in the shop next week, and while I was only planning on getting new tires before we go out to Tahoe in December, now I'm toying with the idea of perhaps doing some suspension work, too.

I've been reading Mud for the last week or so trying to decipher all the debate about tires and what not. I've decided to paint my stock 18-inch rims--I called around to price powder coating and it's way too expensive compared to painting, which is pretty much twenty bucks and a lot of labor--and I thought I was settled on 285/60/18 Terra Grapplers, but now I'm starting to wonder if it might be smarter to do the suspension upgrades I was planning on doing next year, which throws the whole tire selection process out of whack.

So consider this another "spend my money" thread!

Here's the context: In May, my girlfriend and I are planning on hitting the Pan American Highway for a year or more. Until then, I'm probably going to be hitting some Oregon trails and such so clearance is welcome, but hard core rock crawling isn't a priority. And even on the PA, we're going to be spending the lion's share of our time on the highway.

Still, a lift and new shocks seems like a wise upgrade. And if I'm going to do that, maybe I could move to a different tire. I'm still thinking something taller and thinner than wider--still want to keep gas mileage as reasonable as possible--but I'd love to get some feedback on your suggestions on a lift and shocks, as well as different tires if that makes sense. (I'm leaning towards Bilstein where I can; I've heard too much good stuff from other hundy owners.)

I'll almost certainly be adding bumpers, an RTT, drawers, etc. next year, so building out in anticipation of a higher curb weight makes sense.

Appreciate the time and consideration.
 
Regardless of what you do to your suspension you're going to regret selling that 2002 :flipoff2:
 
Ha. Possibly! But I don't like keeping cars or bikes I'm not using. I can always buy another someday if I feel the need.
 
there is no such thing as a cut off point. its a disease
 
Actually after writing all that, I may just call Slee tomorrow and ask what they think. The 1.5-inch lift is probably pretty decent, especially if they can swap in Bilsteins.
 
You should have posted a pict of your 2002, i am looking for one... Ha.

Sounds like you are doing alot of road time, I would not go to high on the lift. Just do a moderate lift 1.5 with 285/60 18's...
 
I think your choice is EASY for now (unless you have extra cash). Why? Because you need some lift now and you won't be adding all the extra weight until later.

NOW: Add a 50mm spacer ($50 each) to the rear of each spring top. Adjust T-bars to match ($0). Get an alignment ($60). You'll have a 2-inch lift for $160. Your ride will be 95% stock. Slap on your 33-inch tires and spare. IF...IF...after that first trip out into the dirt you find the shocks are too soft. Then go buy OME's and put them on. No re-alignment is needed.

LATER: When it's time to add the bumpers and the other gear, go with the lift that best suits your build. Do a diff drop at this time as well.
 
man my first car in military was a 1972 BMW 2002 tii.....drove it all over and then main bearing went out and I could not afford to get it rebuilt. I regret selling that car but my wifes 2007 335i with a chip is fun to drive too :D :D
 
man my first car in military was a 1972 BMW 2002 tii.....drove it all over and then main bearing went out and I could not afford to get it rebuilt. I regret selling that car but my wifes 2007 335i with a chip is fun to drive too :D :D

Wow: A Tii! I had, and drove the snot out of, a '71 2002. Midwest winters were not fun...as you know the 2002 was a bit anemic in the heater/defroster arena :rolleyes:
 
I think your choice is EASY for now (unless you have extra cash). Why? Because you need some lift now and you won't be adding all the extra weight until later.

That there is some good advice (and not the first time John has offered it).

I went the full OME route with my 1996 4Runner years ago. I loved the look, but the ride was terrible on a stock weight 4Runner. With my 2003 Land Cruiser—which spends 99% of its time on road—I opted to keep the factory ride but gain some lift by installing a rear coil spring spacer and cranking the front torsion bars to match. The rear spacer is 1.5" (38.1 mm), and the front torsion bars have been adjusted to bring the Land Cruiser level (about 2"). Front suspension droop is good at 65 mm. I love the look, and the ride—even with the new 275/70-18 BFG AT KO's aired up to 50 PSI—is great! The 275/70-18 measures 11" wide and 33.25" tall at 50 PSI—it is the perfect size for this amount of lift.

Stock versus stockish...
IMG_2184.jpg
 
That there is some good advice (and not the first time John has offered it).

I went the full OME route with my 1996 4Runner years ago. I loved the look, but the ride was terrible on a stock weight 4Runner. With my 2003 Land Cruiser—which spends 99% of its time on road—I opted to keep the factory ride but gain some lift by installing a rear coil spring spacer and cranking the front torsion bars to match. The rear spacer is 1.5" (38.1 mm), and the front torsion bars have been adjusted to bring the Land Cruiser level (about 2"). Front suspension droop is good at 65 mm. I love the look, and the ride—even with the new 275/70-18 BFG AT KO's aired up to 50 PSI—is great! The 275/70-18 measures 11" wide and 33.25" tall at 50 PSI—it is the perfect size for this amount of lift.

Stock versus stockish...

And...for the trails...NOTHING articulates in the front like STOCK T-bars. Keep them until you need the higher spring rate (or are one who likes the stiffer and more sporty on-road ride).
 
Sounds like a plan. I'll get to ordering. Thanks, guys!
 
I think your choice is EASY for now (unless you have extra cash). Why? Because you need some lift now and you won't be adding all the extra weight until later.

NOW: Add a 50mm spacer ($50 each) to the rear of each spring top. Adjust T-bars to match ($0). Get an alignment ($60). You'll have a 2-inch lift for $160. Your ride will be 95% stock. Slap on your 33-inch tires and spare. IF...IF...after that first trip out into the dirt you find the shocks are too soft. Then go buy OME's and put them on. No re-alignment is needed.

LATER: When it's time to add the bumpers and the other gear, go with the lift that best suits your build. Do a diff drop at this time as well.

This sounds exactly like what I want to do to my 2001. I have been doing a lot of studying/searching on this forum and their seems to be a lot of different options for suspension on these hundys. I am not trying to hijack the thread, but can you tell me where to get either 38mm or 50mm spacers? And, can anyone supply a link that really explains step by step how to crank your factory torsion bars? I have been looking all around for a thread that describes and has pics of someone lifting the front end by cranking the factory torsion bars.

My truck is going to be a poser at best. I have a 40 to beat up off-road and just want my 100 to look more "manly" and less "soccer momish". I love driving it and don't want to sacrifice the factory ride.

Thanks.
 
Pan American highway...I'd worry more about PM/reliability than modifications.
 
x2! I can only find 30mm from MAF or Slee. Is it a bad idea to stack the 30mm with a 10mm packer?

X3. Shotts, are you talking off the shelf 50mm spacers or something a little more esoteric? Newb question, I know, but, have to start somewhere!
 
man... if I want 2" of lift, it's really not much more expensive to buy OME 865's. I'm just not sure if I need more than 1" tho, I only have 285's
 

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