Suggestions for a cheap 4" lift

[Eicca]

I want a lift! Unfortunately I also want more money! What do you recommend for cheapish lift kits? Just four inches?

Maybe if I'm insane I could stretch the springs?

Thanks!

 

[retrofive]

.02 Don't do it even if you found one. Patience and savings will save your bacon later.

IMO

 

[Ebag333]

30 mm spacers from MAF. 2" body lift. That gets you over 3".

You can also watch for a used lift.

 

[Pathfinder]

30 mm spacers from MAF. 2" body lift. That gets you over 3".

You can also watch for a used lift.

I pieced mine together from used parts here on mud (shocks, springs, etc.... saved over 50% of retail. there are a couple of lift kits selling in the for sale parts section. Also beware of the additional items your going to need once you do a lift:

• extended brake lines
• brake fluid
• swaybar drop brackets
• bump stop extensions
• LPSV modification
• caster correction (either drop brackets or labor of getting CC bushings pressed in)
• potential from drive shaft rebuild/upgrade to CV. (4 inche lift may cause some drive line vibes.
  • I got 3.5" of lift and no vibes however I keep mine well greased to hopefully reduce wear (its only a matter of time though)

 

[lt1fire]

The problem with a lift is it isn't just springs you need other parts.

Cheapest way? Buy used here on mud.

 

[Leroy]

There's nothing cheap about a 4" lift. There's so much to correct after springs and shocks.
caster (plates or control arms, dc shaft... or if you're lucky just bushings), brake lines, panhards, bump stop drop brackets, sway bar drop brackets.... I would definitely consider a 2" lift with just springs, shocks and cc bushings if I wanted to save money. OME medium perhaps. It's easy, you can run 315's with some bump stop drop brackets I think, and it won't cost too much. Add spacers later for more lift but be prepared for possibly a mess of front axle caster correction stuff to kill vibes and make it drive properly. I did bushings twice (2 degree, then 3 degree with the stock shaft). No go. Did land tank's plates (that wasn't easy) and a dc shaft and then a set of 2 degree bushings on the backside of the axle only to point the pinion a bit higher to align for the dc shaft. I still have a faint, nominal vibe, but I'm over it and maybe a bit OCD. 2" suspension with 2" body lift might be your ticket if 4" is what you're set on. Good luck.

 

[Tools R Us]

I want a lift! Unfortunately I also want more money! What do you recommend for cheapish lift kits? Just four inches?

Maybe if I'm insane I could stretch the springs?

Thanks!

A serviceable, good driving, wheeling lift in that range can be done relatively inexpensively, if your willing and have some fab skills. IMHO stock springs are too soft for a lifted rig and the shocks are too short, so they will need to be purchased, new/used. J front and heavy rear OME springs will get you in that range, then shocks of your choice, I use OME L's for more travel.

For caster correction, do the washer mod, redrill the bolt holes in the axle brackets where you want/need them and tack weld on washers.

Brake lines, if your using std OME length or shorter nothing is needed. If L or longer, it's stupid simple to make brackets to lower the frame side mounts. No need for new lines.

Will need to extend the breather lines, it's simple, some 1/4" fuel line and disposable fuel filters. I always take this opportunity to extend them up higher.

Sway bar brackets are very simple to make.

Bump stop spacers will be needed if using L or longer shocks and/or big tires (~315+), again stupid simple and cheap to make.

All of the local rigs that are running this setup are running stock panhards with zero issue.

 

[Ebag333]

Also beware of the additional items your going to need once you do a lift:

• extended brake lines
• brake fluid
• swaybar drop brackets
• bump stop extensions
• LPSV modification
• caster correction (either drop brackets or labor of getting CC bushings pressed in)
• potential from drive shaft rebuild/upgrade to CV. (4 inche lift may cause some drive line vibes.
  • I got 3.5" of lift and no vibes however I keep mine well greased to hopefully reduce wear (its only a matter of time though)

Your list is applicable to a pure suspension lift, but throw in a 1"-2" body lift and much of it goes away.

For reference, I'm running a medium OME lift (~2.5"), 30 mm spacers, and a 1" body lift.

• extended brake lines

Not really needed until you get 3.5" or higher of suspension. Even then they may not be needed depending on how long of shocks you have. It really depends on what soft of lift you piece together. I do not need longer lines with my lift, but I only have the OME shocks (not the L's).

• swaybar drop brackets

Again, not running brackets, driveshaft doesn't touch. I suspect it might once I get more flex.

• bump stop extensions

Not really needed most of the time, unless you decide to go with larger tires (over 35").

• caster correction

Depends on your caster before/after the lift. May not be needed, or a smaller amount may be needed if you start on the high side of spec (as I did).

• potential from drive shaft rebuild/upgrade to CV. (4 inche lift may cause some drive line vibes.

If you don't adjust your caster, not needed. Good idea if you have 3.5" of suspension lift or higher though. My front DS is starting to go out, after adding in the 30mm spacers I noticed it seemed to be much harder on the DS.


If you do a body lift over a suspension lift, a lot of that stuff isn't needed either. A 2" body lift is pretty cheap and easy to do, a 1" is basically cake.

 

[Pathfinder]

Your list is applicable to a pure suspension lift, but throw in a 1"-2" body lift and much of it goes away.

For reference, I'm running a medium OME lift (~2.5"), 30 mm spacers, and a 1" body lift.

• extended brake lines

Not really needed until you get 3.5" or higher of suspension. Even then they may not be needed depending on how long of shocks you have. It really depends on what soft of lift you piece together. I do not need longer lines with my lift, but I only have the OME shocks (not the L's).

• swaybar drop brackets

Again, not running brackets, driveshaft doesn't touch. I suspect it might once I get more flex.

• bump stop extensions

Not really needed most of the time, unless you decide to go with larger tires (over 35").

• caster correction

Depends on your caster before/after the lift. May not be needed, or a smaller amount may be needed if you start on the high side of spec (as I did).

• potential from drive shaft rebuild/upgrade to CV. (4 inche lift may cause some drive line vibes.

If you don't adjust your caster, not needed. Good idea if you have 3.5" of suspension lift or higher though. My front DS is starting to go out, after adding in the 30mm spacers I noticed it seemed to be much harder on the DS.


If you do a body lift over a suspension lift, a lot of that stuff isn't needed either. A 2" body lift is pretty cheap and easy to do, a 1" is basically cake.

I agree body lift reduces alot of these items. And even with a OME lift you can get away with out many of these items. Guess the question is whether your going to just pound pavement. If yes then alot will never come into play: brake lines, bump stops, sway bars. etc... however it was real close when I did mine. (I waited to add the following items b/c of cost etc...) And when I used a lift to add the additional items brake lines, sway bars all were at limits.

I guess my point is that if you skimp you will probably run into having to spend more money b/c of potential repairs associated with skimping. Again my .02

 

[Ebag333]

I'm not saying to skimp. Just saying to know what you need before you go and drop money on it.

If I did everything the "right" way I could have spent another $400-$500 easy and nearly all of it would have been unnecessary or ever make things worse (such as the bump stop extensions, which would have simply limited my flex).

It's really just like anything else. You need to know what you need and what your limits are. As an example, if you're not fully compressing your shocks there's no need for bump stop extensions. If you fully cycle your suspension and still have room left on your brake lines, again, not needed.

So far I haven't needed much of what you listed, but I'm highly limited with the standard OME shocks. Once I put on my 14" travel shocks, I'll need much of what you have, including longer brake lines, extended breathers, etc. (Still won't need bump stop extensions tho. )

 

[latinoguy]

Thread hijack.

Kevin,

Do you have pics of the washer mod for caster correction. I still would like to address my caster problem, thanks to the shop not installing the CC bushings right, (which Is what I am assuming happened) or care to evaluate some more?

And how stupid simple to make are the bump stop spacers? reference to a DIY thread would be helpful. I am running L shocks on front J springs and heavy rears and haven't noticed needing Bump stop spacers yet, but would be nice to know for future reference.

Thanks.

For caster correction, do the washer mod, redrill the bolt holes in the axle brackets where you want/need them and tack weld on washers.

Bump stop spacers will be needed if using L or longer shocks and/or big tires (~315+), again stupid simple and cheap to make.

 

[Ebag333]

And how stupid simple to make are the bump stop spacers? reference to a DIY thread would be helpful. I am running L shocks on front J springs and heavy rears and haven't noticed needing Bump stop spacers yet, but would be nice to know for future reference.

Thanks.

IMHO bump stop spacers are not needed with L shocks unless you're running a 33" or smaller tire. 315's should net you about 16" when fully compressed, and the L's are at 15.24" (IIRC) for maximum compression.

If you're running a smaller tire then you may need to space down the bump stops a bit.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Do you have pics of the washer mod for caster correction. I still would like to address my caster problem, thanks to the shop not installing the CC bushings right, (which Is what I am assuming happened) or care to evaluate some more?
...

I looked and guess I have never took or saved pix. I do have a saved from the net pic and LCool has page; http://www.lcool.org/technical/80_series/caster_mods.html

I move the rear bolt first, then if needed the front, this keeps the arms as close to the axle as possible, better clearance. For the washer, have always used large round fender washer type. I drill/grind the new hole, instead of the slot in the pic.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
And how stupid simple to make are the bump stop spacers? reference to a DIY thread would be helpful. I am running L shocks on front J springs and heavy rears and haven't noticed needing Bump stop spacers yet, but would be nice to know for future reference.

Thanks.

For shorter spacers I use aluminum strip the thickness needed and 2" wide. Cut or have it cut into two pieces slightly longer than the stop. Take off one of your stops, center it on the block, mark, then drill two holes in the block to match the stop, get longer bolts and bolt it on. For thicker ones do the same thing with steel square/rectangular tube. A pic of the 3" stops on mine.

 

[cruiser concepts]

For shorter spacers I use aluminum strip the thickness needed and 2" wide. Cut or have it cut into two pieces slightly longer than the stop. Take off one of your stops, center it on the block, mark, then drill two holes in the block to match the stop, get longer bolts and bolt it on. For thicker ones do the same thing with steel square/rectangular tube. A pic of the 3" stops on mine.

what are the dimensions on the tires/rims in the picture? they look like they rub.

 

[Ebag333]

what are the dimensions on the tires/rims in the picture? they look like they rub.

Looks like 37 x 12.50 R17 LT.

They probably do rub on the frame at full stuff, but I'm guessing that's either fully stuffed or very close to it.