Suggested alternator replacement FJ60

[iCruiser]

Searched. Couldn't find that magic post that says what is the best FJ60 alternator 100% plug and play option that could also be considered an appreciable upgrade. Primary motive is to have a back up alternator which would be the original. Brighter interior and head lights a plus. Prefer to stay OEM/Toyota brand. Would a FJ62 alternator be the ticket?

 

[NookShneer]

Some local alternator shops can "rebuild" your existing alt to higher amps.

Alternator altering

 

[Willard]

Rebuild your and have the shop up the amp like @NookShneer did.

I tried the 62 series alt option and it would not work for me, I would have had to alter the bracket to make it fit. There is a rad hose that sits right beside it and with the 62 alt I could not get enough adjustment, and was not interested in figuring out the belt.

I have an Remanufactured Toyota alt on mine I will get rebuilt and upped the amps.

 

[OSS]

Most older alternators can't put out 14.3 volts at idle when there is a load placed on them (headlights).

But I purchased a rebuilt 60 alternator from CPGenerator (and got a new remanufacured voltage regulator from Toyota) and holy cow! That thing cranks the amps. Now when I flip on the headlights at idle, the engine RPMs drop because of the big draw on the alternator. It never used to do that. Also the lights stay bright (they used to dim).

The alternator is still rated at 55 amps- I guess- but whatever they did when they rebuilt it - it sure made it perform. I have zero desire (or need) to get a larger alternator. Just a properly functioning stock one is all you'll (likely) need.

 

[Dixon Santana]

I went the 62 alternator route, it works well, with the headlights on, A/C on with the blower motor cranked up all the way and my fog lights I'm at 14.2-14.3 volts.
Looking back though, probably easier to just find a reman 55 amp alternator. My old alternator was barely pushing 13 volts flat with nothing on.

 

[CaptClose]

I had mine rebuilt Will. It cratered on my way home from El Paso when I first bought the Cruiser.

I ran an Autozone alt to get me home that was mostly plug and play. Just needed a slightly longer belt because the VR was clocked in the opposite side as the OEM, so I needed a little extra length to get it off the coolant hose.

See if you can find a shop near you that rebuilds them on Monday. Maybe they’ll get it finished before Jimmy and I get up there on Thursday.

 

[buoytech]

Has anyone tried one of these? Toyota Landcruiser HIgh Output Alternators
$245 is way cheaper that the $399 for a Mean Green at about the same 140 amp output for a FJ60

 

[WILLD420]

I bought a reman from rockauto that works great. Cost me $50 and I kept my old one for a spare.

 

[RGV Cruiser]

Has anyone tried one of these? Toyota Landcruiser HIgh Output Alternators
$245 is way cheaper that the $399 for a Mean Green at about the same 140 amp output for a FJ60

Anyone answer this? I have this 140 amp in my cart.

 

[buoytech]

I haven't anything since I posted in April. I would love to know as I'd pick one up.

 

[Boss Hog]

I have a Mean Green. Zero issues.

 

[Boss Hog]

I have a Mean Green. Zero issues.

 

[RGV Cruiser]

Anyone answer this? I have this 140 amp in my cart.

I have purchased this 140amp alternator and will post here how it goes when I receive and install.

 

[buoytech]

I am interested in hearing how easy an install and how well it works. Update when you can.

 

[Seth S]

Don't forget to upgrade your battery, alternator, starter, and ground cables. Recommend switching to 2 gage or 4 gage welding cable for all high current cables for best performance increase. You will see faster cranking, more efficient charging, brighter lights, faster motors etc. Your old cables are smaller gage and lose performance with age.

 

[JohnJL]

I have purchased this 140amp alternator and will post here how it goes when I receive and install.

How did that alternator work out for you?

 

[Cruzerman]

You have to take amp rating with a grain salt. Alternator output is a function of not only RPM, but also heat. Most of these companies make all kind of output claims, but don't provide the data to back it up. Just like the lumen output from flashlights / LEDs.

I like getting mine rebuilt by a local shop. I think it's a better solution than a generic rebuild. You can modify them some to get more output or output at lower RPMs, but be careful. The case is only designed to dissipate so much heat, so that can be an issue. Heat is an alternators worst enemy.

These rigs are easy to put in almost any alternator you want. I was into running some power behind my radios in my 60, so I put in a big case Leece. Beefy unit. There is a thread here somewhere from long ago.

 

[emac]

On my 62 I had bad luck with the big box alternators. Went with a factory rebuilt unit. As for the headlights, I upgraded to H4 lights and relays to get full battery power to the lights without putting extra heat into the old harness. Woks for me.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

When the alternator went out in my old 93 80 series I looked online and couldn't find a great/simple upgrade without buying additional hardware.

I took the burned up unit into a local specialist and I asked for 3 things....

Same plug
Same clocking and mounting
Same belt orientation/location

I knew it was possible as most vehicle manufacturers don't make electronic parts.

A late 90s or early 2000s Jag (specific years) came up as a nearly perfect match with only a slightly larger casing. Nobody else had figured that one out on Mud.

It was a ~ 70a upgrade over stock... but what was best was that it put out around 100a at idle due to newer internal circuitry.

Required only minor grinding to the slider bracket as the diameter of the case was a little larger (and to swap pulleys) and to upgrade the main power lead.

Could probably find my thread on here somewhere...


My point is that you could find something very similar, go into a specialty shop, and ask what they can find you.

 

[tucson_sailors]

When the alternator went out in my old 93 80 series I looked online and couldn't find a great/simple upgrade without buying additional hardware.

I took the burned up unit into a local specialist and I asked for 3 things....

Same plug
Same clocking and mounting
Same belt orientation/location

I knew it was possible as most vehicle manufacturers don't make electronic parts.

A late 90s or early 2000s Jag (specific years) came up as a nearly perfect match with only a slightly larger casing. Nobody else had figured that one out on Mud.

It was a ~ 70a upgrade over stock... but what was best was that it put out around 100a at idle due to newer internal circuitry.

Required only minor grinding to the slider bracket as the diameter of the case was a little larger (and to swap pulleys) and to upgrade the main power lead.

Could probably find my thread on here somewhere...


My point is that you could find something very similar, go into a specialty shop, and ask what they can find you.

Here ya go.
Possible bolt in 140-145a alternator

Interesting read. Someone on the thread complained that you couldn't fit it on a 3FE, but I'm running the standard 2F carbed, so I may look into this. Already upgraded my alternator to the battery as part of the H4 conversion process, but think I'll have to check the starter and grounds. I have a jag rebuilder here in town, I'll check with them to see if they have any for a reasonable price before just buying a reman online. Would be nice to wander down to their shop and eyeball the difference between the stock 2F ND and the new shiny from the thread.

Glenn in Marana