Last week, I was coming home from work, probably about 35-40 MPH on a moderate hill. Pulled out to pass a truck and tried to accelerate hard, and lost power in a pretty sudden & dramatic fashion - I think the car behind me had to hit their brakes. Could barely maintain about 25-30 mph. Got it over to the shoulder and took a look - didn't see anything obvious - nothing leaking, no smoke, no CEL, unmodded temp gauge in the normal range. It felt a little hot to me under the hood.
Shut it off and restarted fine, engine is smooth - no bucking or hesitation. Got back in and drove some more - it's not right but it's doing OK - maybe 40 mph. Then in another 3 miles it starts getting worse fast - I'm down to 10-15 mph and falling and I pull over again. The other thing I notice now is a noise near the back of the engine that sounds like a massive vacuum leak, and a brief small curl of smoke near the EGR.
I'm only about half a mile form home now, so I get my wife to come down and strap me home ... will be hearing about this from her brothers I'm sure.
I took the IR thermometer out and pointed it at various bits - water pump, block, head, etc. Everything is in the range 155-160F, so doesn't seem to be overheating.
Anyway, once it cools down, I take a closer look and find that the hose is blown off the bottom of the EGR vacuum modulator and a hole is melted into the bottom. The noise I heard is exhaust gas blowing out of the hose normally attached to the bottom of the part.
I now have some difficulty starting it and keeping it running. It struggles to get over 2500 RPM, but still smooth. Still no CEL.
I've found a few threads on melted EGR vacuum modulators - two that ultimately attributed it to blocked cats, one that resolved with a new ECU, and one that simply replaced the modulator and put a hose clamp on it..
Cats
near RTH: Vacuum Modulator Meltdown
Melted EGR Vacuum Modulator
ECU
Photo of EGR carnage
Replaced
It's been almost 5 years since I've had an MIL (401 EGR Code Revisited)
(Never mind - found another thread from a month later where he finds clogged cats Had a bit of a scare on the drive home (temporary overheating?))
The catalytic converter stories seem to match mine the best - loss of power, etc.
Any suggestions on how to confirm this? I've found some stuff about checking the exhaust system back pressure - what's a good number for these trucks? Is that hose off of the EGR a good place to put a gauge, rather then breaking into the exhaust pipe?
As far as replacing the EGR vacuum modulator - this is apparently an $80 part. Hate to spend that if it's a symptom rather then a cause and I melt another one. There are plenty of identical looking ones out there in the $15 price range. I know I'll catch hell from the purists, but what's the worse that can happen - an EGR code, then replace it with the right part?
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-609-EGR-Vacuum-Modulator/dp/B0083H5RDM/?tag=ihco-20
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Replacement-Vacuum-Solenoid-Modulator/dp/B00D2XR6AE/?tag=ihco-20
Shut it off and restarted fine, engine is smooth - no bucking or hesitation. Got back in and drove some more - it's not right but it's doing OK - maybe 40 mph. Then in another 3 miles it starts getting worse fast - I'm down to 10-15 mph and falling and I pull over again. The other thing I notice now is a noise near the back of the engine that sounds like a massive vacuum leak, and a brief small curl of smoke near the EGR.
I'm only about half a mile form home now, so I get my wife to come down and strap me home ... will be hearing about this from her brothers I'm sure.
I took the IR thermometer out and pointed it at various bits - water pump, block, head, etc. Everything is in the range 155-160F, so doesn't seem to be overheating.
Anyway, once it cools down, I take a closer look and find that the hose is blown off the bottom of the EGR vacuum modulator and a hole is melted into the bottom. The noise I heard is exhaust gas blowing out of the hose normally attached to the bottom of the part.
I now have some difficulty starting it and keeping it running. It struggles to get over 2500 RPM, but still smooth. Still no CEL.
I've found a few threads on melted EGR vacuum modulators - two that ultimately attributed it to blocked cats, one that resolved with a new ECU, and one that simply replaced the modulator and put a hose clamp on it..
Cats
near RTH: Vacuum Modulator Meltdown
Melted EGR Vacuum Modulator
ECU
Photo of EGR carnage
Replaced
It's been almost 5 years since I've had an MIL (401 EGR Code Revisited)
(Never mind - found another thread from a month later where he finds clogged cats Had a bit of a scare on the drive home (temporary overheating?))
The catalytic converter stories seem to match mine the best - loss of power, etc.
Any suggestions on how to confirm this? I've found some stuff about checking the exhaust system back pressure - what's a good number for these trucks? Is that hose off of the EGR a good place to put a gauge, rather then breaking into the exhaust pipe?
As far as replacing the EGR vacuum modulator - this is apparently an $80 part. Hate to spend that if it's a symptom rather then a cause and I melt another one. There are plenty of identical looking ones out there in the $15 price range. I know I'll catch hell from the purists, but what's the worse that can happen - an EGR code, then replace it with the right part?
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-609-EGR-Vacuum-Modulator/dp/B0083H5RDM/?tag=ihco-20
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Replacement-Vacuum-Solenoid-Modulator/dp/B00D2XR6AE/?tag=ihco-20
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