Subwoofer wiring question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter virafp
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Nobody is answering, and I think it's because there are too many variable to give a concrete answer. But I'm willing to throw out some issues with short explanations of why it's a problem.
Does your model have the dual 4" subs in the back? If yes, then I expect the amp is using two wires to one sub, two to the other. I'll come back to this later.
Does your model have only the 6" sub in the back (mine does), then if you open side panel and check the connector you would see that while 4 wires go out of the amp back to the sub, only two are actually connected to the woofer.
Both the above implies a single channel driving a single sub, each having two connectors.
Returning to the dual 4" sub case. It is possible that the amplifier could be used in bridged mode [one channel (-) wire combined with the other channel (+) wire], but it's also possible that trying to do that would fry the amp. I've never read an account of someone who successfully bridged the OEM amp (doesn't mean it can't be done, I just haven't read about it).
Complicating the issue is the Ohm rating of your subs. I know my 6" Nakamichi sub is a 6-Ohm woofer. I have read the later model ML models use a 12-Ohm woofer. Bridging an amp usually means the Ohm rating of the woofer(s) it drives has to rise. So if the dual 4" woofers are each 4-Ohm rated, an bridged amp might require an 8_Ohm woofer or risk death by overheating from current flow.
Long winded way of saying that before giving an answer, I think most would need to know your factory sub quantity/type, and the Ohm rating of the sub you want to use.
Does your model have the dual 4" subs in the back? If yes, then I expect the amp is using two wires to one sub, two to the other. I'll come back to this later.
Does your model have only the 6" sub in the back (mine does), then if you open side panel and check the connector you would see that while 4 wires go out of the amp back to the sub, only two are actually connected to the woofer.
Both the above implies a single channel driving a single sub, each having two connectors.
Returning to the dual 4" sub case. It is possible that the amplifier could be used in bridged mode [one channel (-) wire combined with the other channel (+) wire], but it's also possible that trying to do that would fry the amp. I've never read an account of someone who successfully bridged the OEM amp (doesn't mean it can't be done, I just haven't read about it).
Complicating the issue is the Ohm rating of your subs. I know my 6" Nakamichi sub is a 6-Ohm woofer. I have read the later model ML models use a 12-Ohm woofer. Bridging an amp usually means the Ohm rating of the woofer(s) it drives has to rise. So if the dual 4" woofers are each 4-Ohm rated, an bridged amp might require an 8_Ohm woofer or risk death by overheating from current flow.
Long winded way of saying that before giving an answer, I think most would need to know your factory sub quantity/type, and the Ohm rating of the sub you want to use.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks so much for your response. My truck is a 2001, and it has a single JBL 6 5 3/4 or 6" sub.
The head unit is a Kenwood, with an amp installed, but no sub woofer amp. If there are only two wires going to teh sub in my set up, it shopuld be relatively easy to connect another 6" sub?
I am thinking of adding a Pyle 6" which is rated at 4 ohms - do you think this will be OK?
Again, great response, and I thank you!!
The head unit is a Kenwood, with an amp installed, but no sub woofer amp. If there are only two wires going to teh sub in my set up, it shopuld be relatively easy to connect another 6" sub?
I am thinking of adding a Pyle 6" which is rated at 4 ohms - do you think this will be OK?
Again, great response, and I thank you!!
Yes, it will be easy, and yes 4-Ohms should be fine. You shouldn't expect to have thumping bass, impressing the cars at a stop light with a 6" sub, regardless of brand. That would apply even to the (relatively) mighty JL Audio 6" sub. For bass notes, it's like the US big block guys say, "There's no replacement for displacement", and the more air you displace the more bass you get. If everything else was equal a 12" sub would produce about 4 times the volume of a 6" sub (since the woofer cone area is proportional to the radius squared, so 9 vice 36).
If you want more quality than Pyle, but not a high end budget, you might cruise through the offerings at places like Parts Express and look for a woofer that has the most linear excursion (Xmax) that fits in your box and budget. This one might fit depending on your box shape/size.
If I had enough money (I don't) and wanted a sound quality woofer to fit in the OEM location using the factory box, I'd pick up this one from Madisound.
I went with this one: Pyle PLPW6D
Amazon.com: Pyle PLPW6D 6-Inch 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer: Car Electronics
I cant believe its only $13 now... lol I paid $20. For the price you cant beat it. Your not going to get great bass from back their with that tiny enclosure.
Amazon.com: Pyle PLPW6D 6-Inch 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer: Car Electronics
I cant believe its only $13 now... lol I paid $20. For the price you cant beat it. Your not going to get great bass from back their with that tiny enclosure.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks All..much appreciated. Yes, I understand that I wont get thumping bass, but thats OK. I liked the factory set up as it fit my needs. I am not a loud bass kind of guy, and am replacing it because the factory sub is torn.
So I guess the easy way is to figure out which two wires work, and hook those up?
So I guess the easy way is to figure out which two wires work, and hook those up?
Pretty much what i did...connect to the speaker and if i heard sound i used those. Then cut the others and tape the ends.
If you pull the side panel you should find a connector going into the woofer housing. If it's like mine you will find 4 wires going into the connector, but on the enclosure side there are only two pins (might have to take the enclosure out to see unless you use a mirror - my connector was pointing down IIRC). That will tell you which two wires carry signal out of the amp. Then if the woofer enclosure is anything like the one on my 2000 LX, inside the enclosure you will find two wires you could clip at the old woofer then re-solder then to the new or put on the appropriate connector to match up to the woofer you buy.
EDIT: I type too much and too slow. bucfl's method is probably much quicker.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Thanks for the link!
Bringing up this old thread for some advice. I bought a Pyle PLPW6D 6" and wired it up. My '06 only had two wires, black and red so I hooked up only two of the four speakers inputs. Sounds OK, but as soon as I turn up the volume the stereo quits for about a second. Where did I screw up?
Is it as simple as the Pyle is a 4 ohm and the stock unit is a 2 ohm?
I think stock woofer is 12ohm so a dvc 8ohm would get you closer to 12ohm
